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 Post subject: stripped cam lock bolt
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 10:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 3:44 pm
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What is best to put in cam lock bolt hole that will allow it to tighten. It has stripped and I don't think 5200 is the answer.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 3:44 pm
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I called it a cam lock to sound like I knew what I was talking about. It's
what locks the pedal drive in place. There is a bolt that tightens it down and one of mine has popped out. When I tighten it back it does not get completely tight before it strips loose. I was thinking maybe JB weld would
work. Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:28 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Could be covered under warranty if the boat is just a few years old.

If the bolt hole is stripped, you can try a few things. There is a thing called a Heli Coil that can be inserted into the hole that creates threads. The column may be stretching away from the bolt? I would think (never tried it) that something like a hose clamp around the shaft/column the bolt threads into could compress the column against the threads. Maybe a tap to cut threads? Then some epoxy to grip the column threads and the bolt threads?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 9:58 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2007 6:32 pm
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Location: South Carolina
I'd prob try the warranty thing first. The others take some work.

Helicoil is good and works well, however you have to buy a Helicoil kit. Prob not very expensive and your best bet if you have to fix yourself. As long as the plastic column is thick enough, helicoil will make it as strong or stronger as it was originally since its metal.

If the column is expanding, there isn't enough wall and Helicoil or hose clamps etc may not hold up over time.

There would be more options if that column that the bolt fits into was thicker. If you are out of warranty, I would prob Helicoil, try to rough up the hole a bit and put some JB weld in there. Use enough so that when the bolt is all the way down, some JB weld is into the threads, but it doesn't come gushing out the top because you put so much in there. The Helicoil isn't a full thread, its only maybe 1/2" in length and goes toward the bottom of the hole. The JB weld is pretty strong and should help. The only thing is that if you do all of that and then get another failure, it will be all over. The whole column will probably go.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 10:54 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
Hi RC and welcome to the forum.

IMO, the helicoil stretches the cam column and could weaken it where it doesn't have a lot of excess strength. I've had pretty good luck with epoxy. It doesn't form a strong bond with polyethylene but seems to stick well enough for this application.

I recommend cleaning the cam columns first with a bottle brush and making sure they are thoroughly dry. There is not a lot of excess space in the column so it doesn't take much epoxy. If you use too much it will ooze out the top of the column and can lock the cam knob.

I prefer slow set epoxy, as it allows plenty of time to insert and adjust the height of the cam knobs for a good locking position (about 180 degrees of turn or less). This is especially true if you're doing this in the sun where the internal heat can set off the mix pretty fast.

If some epoxy oozes up to the surface and interferes with the free rotation of the cam knob, you can rotate the knob every few minutes or so to break the bond before it gains any strength, until it's no longer a problem.

I did this last year and nothing has moved out of position since. 8)


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