Okay... as promised, I have posted up some piccies of the work I’ve just done on my new Quest, and it’s rudder system.
I have given you the URL’s, so that casual passer by people, who maybe DON’T really have any particular interest in the Quest, don’t have to wait for long download times for 12 jpegs. It also saves my server from a hammering, if you don’t like the first few photos, then fine, don’t keep clicking. If you are interested, then click away.....
Now, before any of you go any further, and say “What was wrong with the rudder in the first place?” The answer is... nothing. The mods were made, as PART of my overall plan for the Quest, and, because I can. You see, I have a Sheet Metal Workshop here in Adelaide, in South Australia, and we work with 304 & 316 Stainless Steel, buy S-Steel fasteners by the kilo, and there is a yacht fitting shop next door to me. So, as you can easily see, I had no option...... ( Maybe I need help...? ....lol.... )
So, what do we have?
Is the standard Navigator Rudder, showing the new stainless steel clip I installed, which allows deeper retraction, and full removal of the aluminium fin. ( Aluminium, is our Australian way of spelling by the way, AND, because we mine and export it around the whole wide world, which also includes the USA, then I figure, that any way we spell it is correct, wouldn’t you agree....?)
Shows the rudder fin retracted in the FULL position. I did NOT add any extra shock cord to the assembly, just the addition of the shock cord clip, along with the small stainless steel carabiner, was enough to add the required length for full fin retraction.
A no-brainer.... This is the rudder assembly with the fin removed, for easier car topping.
The aluminium fin, showing the shock cord clip, and carabiner.
A rear view of the kayak. The yellow lines are the tethers for my “Crack of Dawn” inflatable seat cushion. This IS good on my crack, let me tell ya. I am awaiting another 8 inch hatch this week from Hobie, and I’ll have the ties, along with everything else earmarked for the rear done, once access is achieved. Hobie Mirage Tandem in the background, with its scupper cart with REAL pneumatic wheels & tyres, and to the left a little, my Dagger Drifter. Oh, and for those of you with really good eyes, yes, it’s my concrete mixer, doesn’t float real well......
These are the Ronstan cleats I decided to use to keep the Spectra lines tight. These make any change dead easy, and you can really tweak them to the millimetre. If, and when I allow anyone else use my kayak, and a pedal change is required, no big deal, just pull ‘em taught with the Ronstans. The remainder of the line is tucked into the side pockets, and spring clipped so it won’t fall through the mesh.
Another set of cleats. This set keeps the shock cord tensioned, which gives the other side of the pedals some tension, therefore stopping them from falling forwards to your feet, and rattling.
A small roller mounted up front in each foot well. This allows the shock cord to run in front of the pedal assembly, and also, and more importantly, allows me to use 800 mm. of cord for each pedal. This doubling over, like the spectra set up on the pedals, allows more leverage, and feel, without any undue stretch on the cords. Just think mechanics, like on pulleys and hoists..... that kind of thing. Oh, the doubling over on the Spectra was done by Hobie, and is different than some photos I’ve seen posted up on here by our good friend Apalach, whereby the lines just simply terminate up at the front, and have no mechanical leverage or advantage, cheers Dick for the good info.
A somewhat tippy, leaning view of the right foot well, showing the layout of the cleats. Note the compass installed.
Another view of the right foot well, but from the front, giving you an idea of the pedal tensioning system I employed.
A somewhat out of focus shot of both foot wells. The mirror, is from one of my work vans. I’m going to mount it on the rod holder, so I can see behind me. Where I paddle sometimes, there is a large contingent of rowers, who cannot see ahead of them, and they also have rowing rights on the lake, whereby all us kayak trash, have to move out of the way, ergo the mirror.
On my kayaks, one of the first things I did, was to install 4 handles per yak, 2 cleats ( 1 rear, 1 front ), and 2 eyes, front & back, for mooring. Anything that I have attached to all of my kayaks, either gets stainless steel mudguard washers behind, or some stainless steel plates, so as to spread out the load on the fittings. I NEVER use well nuts, or self tappers, ever. Always screws, washers & nyloc nuts.
So, there ya go. For those of you who either own, or a looking to own a Quest, this is something that you can use, any way shape or form, to make the rudder / steering assembly more user friendly. I admit, the Ronstan cleats are waaaaay overkill, but I don’t care. You may want to look at cheaper options, and they WILL work well. My problem is, I just can’t help myself... I like toys, and gadgets....