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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 5:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 5:20 pm
Posts: 1
Hello forum,

I'm a proud new owner of a Hobie Adventure. It's a fun machine, even though I am a complete novice at kayaking.

I wanted the kayak primarily for fishing around Tybee Island, but I soon discovered (as in the 1st trip), that I'd better learn to handle the kayak before I started flinging treble hooks around.

I now have a little experience under my belt, three trips out, the last of which was the Tybee River Race, a 6 1/2 mile race to benefit the Tybee Island Marine Science Center. Next year, with my Turbo fins, and a little more experience, I'll whoop them other kayakers!!!!!

Question: I am going to install various accesories on the Adventure, anchor trolley, rod holders, maybe even a compass and GPS.

I'm looking for advice on the proper product to seal around fasteners that go through the hull. I've heard all sorts of opinions:

Marine Goop
Silicone
Life Caulk
3M Marine 5200

I understand that nothing (except for some wild 3M product) actually bonds to polyethylene, so I'm asking, what is the best sealant around screws and bolts in the Adventure's hull?

Thanks,

Bill


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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:59 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
3M Marine 5200

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See ya on the water,
OffRoad


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 3:47 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Clearwater Fl
Can't be too many Bill's from Tybee Island...and when you add a Hobie Kayak to the pile that list must get smaller......My name is Art, and I vist Savannah a couple times a year to vist my sister and family...Is that you Bill???.....Just bought a sport, and loving it!

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Catching fish is a bonus...but getting out there is enough...


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:40 am
Posts: 952
Location: Dallas, TX
Be careful with 5200... It's basically a permanent adhesive.

When we drill holes, we use something called Windshear. It bonds to poly boats much better than the Silicone adhesives. Lots of places sell the stuff (we do also - I just haven't got it listed in the e-store).

Brian C


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:37 pm
Posts: 46
Location: San Francisco
Is there a post with the basic step by step directions on how to install a pad eye. I know this is actually simple, but, I have never drilled a hole in my new boat so I am a bit nervous. If I buy pad eyes from Hobie, do they come with the fasteners and directions? If not, what type of fasteners are best? Screws? Bolts?
Thanks
-Jonathan


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 26
I always use stainless bolts if I can reach underneith.

When you do install pad eyse consider intalling another padeye iinside the yak with the same bolt. Then later if you want to tie something on nside, you have a convient place to do it.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:40 am
Posts: 952
Location: Dallas, TX
The Hobie padeyes and hooks that we get do not come with hardware. We typically use #6 or #8 countersunk SS machine screws with flat washers and nylock nuts on the back side. These are not engine blocks, don't over torque the screws.

The important things to remember:
- Never drill a hole you can't get to the backside of.
- Measure twice, drill once.
- After drilling the first hole on a multi hole fixture, put a screw into it before drilling the second hole. Repeat as necessary.
- Know where your waterline is and NEVER drill near it (you'd think that would be obvious, but it's not).

Brian C


Last edited by The Dog on Sat Aug 12, 2006 4:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Thanks
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:37 pm
Posts: 46
Location: San Francisco
Thank you for the advice, guys. All good ideas.

Do you use some kind of sealing glue/caulk under the pad eye as well?

Speaking of drilling holes, but slightly off topic; in the photo Matt Miller posted of his Mirage Drive Lanyard, it appears that a hole has been drilled in a part of the Mirage Drive itself for the shackle. Is this a common thing to do?

-Jonathan


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 Post subject: wing nuts
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 27, 2006 4:50 pm
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Location: sacramento california
:wink: I used Stainless steel flat head allen machine screws with lock washers, flat washers and wing nuts on the back side to mount a harken cleat cam last week. I found it easier to reach under and thread the wing nut onto the machine screw without to much hassle. I made it hand tight then snugged it up with a twist of some small pliers. I thought the nylon lock nuts would be a chore to tighten up or loosen up in such tight quarters..maybe Im just lazy..seems to be working ok and I wont need to carry tools on board..if it loosens up out on the water I can retighten by hand if need be enough to make it work till back to port etc
kepnutz


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 Post subject: Re: Thanks
PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:56 am 
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Location: Dallas, TX
Havoc wrote:
Do you use some kind of sealing glue/caulk under the pad eye as well?


We like to use Windshear under the hooks, cleats and padeyes.

Brian C


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 2380
Location: Escondido
You have to match your fasteners to your hardware. If countersunk (like Hobie's), your padeye (or eye strap) requires a flat head or oval head stainless screw. If flat (like most of West Marine's) you'll need pan head or round head screws. Best to have your padeye in hand when you select your hardware so you don't have any sharp edges or wrong sizes.

Like Brian, I prefer nylock nuts with flat washers if there is rear access (wing nuts are a good idea, but nylock nuts won't come loose so you don't have to re-tighten them periodically). If there's no rear access, you could probably get away with with self tapping screws if it's a light duty application like a lanyard anchor. Just don't over-tighten -- snug will do. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:30 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Orlando, Florida
Hey Havoc,

Not sure that anybody's mentioned using a backing plate if you expect to put some serious stress on the eye strap or other hardware you decide to mount. We have a great surplus store here in Orlando that gets lots of cool stuff from the space center. I bought a flat sheet of PVC about a 1/4 inch thick which I cut to size, then drill holes that match those of the hardware. I install it on the inside of the hull with SS hardware and 3M Marine Sealant, 3200 I think, the 5200 is more of a permanent adhesive rather than a sealant like the 3200.

It may be overkill but at least I have complete confidence that it won't pull through the hull. I've heard of others using a piece of aluminum or other non-corrosive material. I decided on the PVC because it's my experience that "non-corrosive" metals - even stainless steel - is an oxymoron...you know...like jumbo shrimp :lol:

Good luck outfitting your boat.

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 Post subject: Thanks
PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:37 pm
Posts: 46
Location: San Francisco
Thanks all - sucessfully installed my first pad-eye. Looks great and feels strong.
-Jonathan


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