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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 10:05 pm 
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I'm a newbie to kayaking and just bought two Sport kayaks and due to towing a fifth wheel trailer, I need to carry them on my the crossbars of my Thule roof rack. I know that it is best to carry them upside down. I have two questions, being that they are each 30" wide and my load bars are 58" do I need to buy longer bars? Also, I need to position the kayaks quite forward with about a 55" overhang up front. The kayaks are 9'7" (117inches) long. Would this be safe if I secure them in the rear through the scupper holes and secure the front? I have a front hitch but I'm already carrying bicycles up front. I've searched using the keyword roof rack and couldn't find my answer. Lastly, if I were to buy a Hullavator could I load the kayaks off center with it?

Thanks for your help.

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Lakejumper
2011 Sport Mirage


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:26 pm 
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Location: Takoma Park, MD
Hi lakejumper, I carry my Oasis and my revo 11 (not at the same time though) on my roofrack, so i'll answer what i can.

If your Sports are 30" wide and your bars are 58" and you want to load them both, then according to my calculations, you're missing about 2". So if you want to transport them side by side, upside down, you'll definitely need to get longer bars.

I have a Yakima rack and their Gunwale brackets are what work best for me. Perhaps Thule has a similar product.

As far as the overhang, as long as the kayaks don't tip forward when untied, it should be fine, especially if you strap them through the scuppers or drive well.

Not sure about the hullavator.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:45 pm 
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Chexone,
Thanks for your reply. I figured that there would be too much overhang on the sides with the 58" bars so I will play it safe and get 78" and cut them down. I forgot that I can use the hole where the mirage goes for a tie down as well as the scupper holes. Since I am positioning the kayaks so far forward to avoid the Fifth wheel trailer cap from hitting them while making sharp turns, I think that I can make it work. My other choice is to carry them on a cargo carrier on the rear of the RV.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 3:54 am 
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I'm not sure about any of this. Based on what you describe, it sounds like the middle of the kayak will be over the forward bar. As such, that will be about the widest point and the 60"+ bar width would be a minimum. I would think you'll probably need at least 64", if not a bit more to be able to tie them down safely on the front bar. The smaller rear bar could be fine depending upon how narrow the boats are where they cross it. You didn't talk about your vehicle, did you check to see if you could mount a short roofline adapter type kit to move the forward bar ahead of the natural position? Maybe a Thule Slipstream rather than just placing the boats down?

You should also investigate laws where you'll be driving if you're considering a rack wider than your vehicle. I'm not sure that's legal.

With a 15'+ boat on a roof rack, you can easily end up with a similar hang-over, if not larger. I don't see why it would be a major problem with a shorter one.

Finally, I have seen many references to the weakness of the areas around scupper holes. I would investigate carefully before planning to use them for kayak mounting.

-bob


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:54 pm 
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Location: Portland, Texas
Anything under 8' (96") is legal in the US. All the 18 wheeler trailers are 8' wide so that shouldn't be a problem. Both Thule and Yakima have rack attachments that allow you to store your kayaks on the side. The Hobie info also goes along with that method of kayak placement so there may be more options available to you for investigation without changing your bars. Good luck and happy yakking.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 8:31 pm 
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Thanks again for the input. I bought some 78" bars today and will cut them to length. I'm going to use the Thule gunwhale brackets to hold them in place.

Lakejumper

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 8:39 pm 
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Location: Takoma Park, MD
Quote:
I have seen many references to the weakness of the areas around scupper holes. I would investigate carefully before planning to use them for kayak mounting.


It would be disappointing if the scupper holes were not strong enough to provide good strap down. They're perfectly located and make for really good forward/backward movement prevention. Same for the drive well. I'd like to hear more about this if anyone has info.

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