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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2012 4:49 pm
Posts: 6
I bought a very lightly used 2006 outback and thought I had a great deal until I read the forums here and discovered the potential drivewell problems and cracking. After reading the various forums and the excellent information from roadrunner I recorded my attempt at a fix to prevent future problems . Hope it helps other owners of the older models.

I started by checking the hull number with my local dealer (blackcreek outfitters) and they ordered the drivewell retrofit kit for me at no charge. The longer tapered bolts in the retrofit kit were needed but I must of had a hull made after Hobie started to change things because my hull had the brass insert under the forward drive pocket.

I still used the fiberglass reinforcement from the kit but had to trim off the bottom part where it hits the brass insert. It was easy to trim the lower part to fit but take your time and grind off small amounts until it just slips right into place. I then used the glue and instructions from the kit for attachment. The bottom hollow area will get filled with the 3m glue later.
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Next up was trimming some 1 inch pvc to fit around the cam towers. Lots of trial and error here but I finally got the measurements that will work good for the early outback models. Different years and hull types will have different measurements but the method is the same if you are fixing the cam lock system. The plastic in the cam towers is by no means exact so just take your time and make several dry runs to check the fit as some trimming of the pvc might be needed.
As far as the pvc goes I ended up with a 2 inch long piece with a bevel on one end for the hull side and a square cut on the other end at the top of the cam tower. Cut the pvc square on on end then measure 1 3/4 inches along one side of the pvc and make a mark. Then on the other side of the pvc measure 2 inches and make a mark. Line your saw up using the marks so you cut the pipe at an angle.

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Here is the cam tower side cut square and showing the pipe already cut in half lengthwise. Notice I rounded off all the edges on both ends with my grinder so no sharp edges will press into the hull.

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Here is the dry fit, go in the front or seat hatch for each side.

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After everything is test fit sand all areas down that will come into contact with the glue including the inside and outside of the pvc and the front drivewell pocket. I hit it with a shop vac then rubbed it all clean with rubbing alcohol.

Next up is mixing the glue. I used the NS glue and also bought the plastic plunger that the dispensing gun uses. Plunger is part number 1GLZ2 from Grainger supply and I think the 3M part number is the same. You can easily use the plunger by hand to squeeze out the proper amount. Turn the nozzle cap 90 degrees and it just pulls off. I got the plunger for 8 bucks but I got to pay jobber prices through work, maybe 10 or 12 bucks for it retail and you can use it over and over if you ever need it again.

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I used 1/2 tube for each side to attach the pvc to the cam towers. I don't think you could use much more than a half tube at a time as the stuff sets up in minutes so you better have your game on. The last 3 to 4 notches on the plunger are still visible when the tube is empty so mark your plunger accordingly with a piece of tape for the first half of each tube.
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I squirt half the tube out on a plastic lid mixed it well then filled a pvc piece with half the 3m filling and went in the front hatch and stuck it on then filled the other pvc half and went in through the rear hatch. Filling the pvc with the glue really helped in transporting the glue to the area needed without making a mess. A bit will squirt out the top and bottom so when adjusting the pvc halves together spread the overflow around the cam tower area and bridge the gap to the drive axle area. You will be doing this by feel so practice the reach needed dry first.

Here is the initial half tube, I will come back later and fill in with more glue at the top and bottom. Lather,rinse,repeat on the other cam tower.

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I let the glue set for an hour or so then I used a second tube and dispensed only a third this time. I used 1/3 tube on each cam tower to fill in the gaps at each end of the pvc to help spread the load. The last 1/3 tube I used to fill in the hollow area behind the brass insert.

Finished cam tower.
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Finished forward drive well.
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Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:42 am 
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Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 2387
Location: Escondido
Blackcreek, welcome to the forum. Excellent how-to; great pics, well documented. The split PVC method looks like a relatively easy to apply, robust reinforcement that should prevent or take care of any potential problems in those areas.

Everyone with the older style cam columns using Turbofins should consider making this modification as a preventive and/or corrective measure. Be sure to use disposable gloves to keep the epoxy off your skin. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:12 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2012 4:49 pm
Posts: 6
Yes, you can see my throw away gloves in picture 6. After each mix I changed out my gloves. Surface prep is very important! Any spot that was not sanded and stripped with alcohol was fairly easy to scrape the glue off after it dried. The glue on the prepped areas is rock solid.
I live on the water and the wife and I use the outback and newer revo 13 almost daily so I wanted to make sure the hull was safe. The drive is quite solid now and actually flexes less than my newer click and go model. I noticed my click and go hull has no support columns under the pedals but I have not read of many problems with the newer hulls in that area.

I have to give a shout out to Blackcreek Outfitters in Jacksonville Florida. I called with my hull number and they took it from there with call backs and info on the parts ordered. After Hobie quickly sent the retrofit kit Blackcreek Outfitters took the time to take me back in the shop and give me instruction on mounting the kit. I did not really need instruction after reading the forums here but they took the time to make sure I got it right.

Next up is changing out the axle on my V1 drive to a V2 version. The V1 pops out of the clips when used on the click and go hull.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:17 am 
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Hobie Tech / Moderator

Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 1:12 pm
Posts: 991
Just an FYI - but the Mirage in this picture has the forward insert and wouldn't have received the strengthening kit - the factory retro fit kit was only for kayaks which predated the forward insert in the Mirage Drive Well area.

BTW: Nice work, I'm sure that your add-ons won't hurt anything.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:51 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2012 4:49 pm
Posts: 6
Well I did not really need to add the forward fiberglass out of the kit but my cam lock bolts were the short ones and it was recommended to replace them with the long bolts that came in the kit along with the new cam locks. I was more concerned with the cam bolts and adding strength to the plastic cam towers. I figured while I was in there the fiberglass was easy to trim and added extra meat in case I hit the boat on something and knock the end of the drive around in the pocket.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:27 pm
Posts: 26
Hello,
Is the 8010 the only product that will work for this job? Is there anything else more readily available? Would prefer to pick it up locally rather then have to wait for it to get shipped.


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