Hobie Cat Forums

After doing all the research, I really want an Outback. It will mainly be used for fishing. I already have an outfitter and a sport, bought about 5 years ago.
I have a question about the new Outback rudder.
The Outfiitter and the Sport have two different rudder folding systems, and I really like the Outfitter folding rudder, it's a much better build, much sturdier, and easier to manupulate. What's the rudder like on the Outback compared to Outfitter and Sport?

Also, at 28 kilos, can you folks car top it on your own?

The outback being my first and only hobie I cannot compare the rudder system to other boats. The outback rudder functions well with only the occasional hangup on the hook for the hold down bungee. I did upgrade it to the sailing rudder very quickly because it allows for so much quicker of a turn. I cartop mine on the top of my buick lesabre all the time. It is heavy and awkward but if you have a strong back you can do it. I've even carried it as far as 50-60 yards to a dock. Balanced it on top of my shoulder on its side. I don't own wheels because in all other instances I have been able to pull up to the docks or drag the boat on clean grass surfaces.

to be more specific, the Sport doesn't have the twist and stow rudder that the Outfitter has, it's just a raise/lower machanism. Does the Outback have the twist and stow, or just the raise/lower rudder?

I'm answering my own question. It looks like all Hobie Kayaks now have the twist and stow rudders.

What do I need to know about these rudders?

Twist and stow rudder is the best way to go. I car top the outback and I am 61 years old. or should I say young? Good Luck

can I retrofit twist and stow in place of a lower/raise on a Sport?

There is no retrofit from the old to the new. The ends of the kayak are molded differently.

Everything is a trade off. I have just "upgraded" to a brand new Outback from an older model. The older rudder on the outbacks just moved up and down and, in very shallow water or heavy weeds, was far superior to the lift and stow rudder in that it just lifted up when you went over something very shallow, or lifting it up released the weeds or released it from the weeds and you could keep moving forward. The new rudder system causes the kayak to come to a complete halt and also moves it sideways when you raise the rudder to release it from heavy weeds. Also the new Outback, with a slightly flatter bottom (giving it more initial stability), needs a larger rudder than the old model. Hobie should sell the Outback with a larger rudder included instead of charging extra for one. With the "standard" rudder, it is impossible for the Outback to be a hands free peddling experience as you have to keep one hand on the rudder control at all times. Maybe a larger rudder will correct that and Hobie should give one to all Outback users instead of charging for it. The older Outback had a different hull design and tracked better even with the smaller rudder and one could have both hands free to eat or cast, fish, and peddle at the same time.

Amen on the 'newer' stow and go design forcing the kayak to veer if you try to raise it while moving to get rid of collected weeds.

The square 'notch' on the front side of the blade also catches weeds.

Dear Dear Hobie,
Would like to see that notch gone and an optional rudder blade that was more swept back so that it was less prone to catch weeds in weedy water. The swept back profile would also allow you to shimmy the rudder a bit to help weeds slip off the swept-back profile, instead of the current solution which is to raise the rudder.