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 Post subject: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:48 am
Posts: 312
Location: Portland, OR
I have had my Outback for a bit over a year now I am guessing that I will start to have some things that need to be tightened, or replaced, etc. I spray lube on my Mirage drive about once a month, but otherwise I do not do anything to my kayak.

Does anyone have a good checklist of common failure points that should be checked a regular or semi-regular basis? Are there specific points to check for fraying on the control lines? Other than lubing the drive is there anything else that needs periodic adjustment?

To be clear I do not seem to have any issues, I would just like to nip anything in the bud if that is possible.

Thanks,

John

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 Post subject: Re: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:06 am
Posts: 734
Location: Amelia Island, FL
I may be a little OCD about the care of my kayak as my father taught me years ago that if you take care of your "stuff" it will take care of you :D

After each use, I will hose down my PA. Of course being in saltwater, you get use to be careful with all your gear (rod/reels) usually. While cleaning, I will give the PA a visual inspection to make sure that everything is still in working order.

I always make it a point to rinse and lube the mirage drive. Saltwater and sand are enemies to any mechanical device.

Probably every couple months, I will check all the screws/fittings to make certain that they are secure.


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 Post subject: Re: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:20 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 247
Location: Ogden, Utah
I've had my PA only since May and haven't had a single problem yet. I fish only in freshwater, but I still flush and give the drive a spritz of spray lube after each trip. I gave the whole hull a wipedown with aerospace UV protectant early on.

But my year-end inspection/maintenance routine will be to check all fittings, check rudder cables, inspect and re-lube the drive, and give the hull another UV protectant coat. Then I'll hoist it up under my deck for winter storage.

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 Post subject: Re: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:48 am
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Location: Portland, OR
I certainly give my Outback a quick once over each time out, but I was more concerned with things like cable fraying inside the hull, bushings that slowly wear out, etc. Things that are less obvious to the casual observer. For example, I have not stuck my head inside my kayak since I was installing my rod holders about a year ago. I would assume the odds of having a problem inside are small, but if there are specific things that I should look for I would love to know about it.

Also, is there any type of recommendation on replacing the cables (string) for the rudder system? Do folks just wait until it breaks or is there a good rule of thumb. How many trips should one expect to get out of the rudder system? How many folks have had a string break? If so, how long did you have it and how many trips did it take?

Thanks,

John

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Fish tremble when they hear my name :)

A ship in harbor is safe -- but that is not what ships are built for.
--John A. Shedd, Salt from My Attic, 1928


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 Post subject: Re: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 679
Location: Auckland NZ
During 7 years odd, 5 or 6 boats & I have ever had to do anything more than rinse the drives in fresh water when coming back from the beach (at one of the beachside showers usually) and wash my boats down occasionally to get the salt water off.

I have never had a rudder line break or even come loose.

I have had to replace several chain cables, idler cables and fin masts on the drives but only typically after long hard use.

And I should mention that my favourite drive came with my first Hobie so it is at least 7 years old and has had some hard old use - and it is still as good as when it started.


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 Post subject: Re: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 2:23 am
Posts: 33
Location: Mandurah, Western Australia
Hi John,

The stainless cable on the Mirage Drive chains is one thing to check for fraying from time to time. Typically you can expect years of use before it's an issue though.
I have a spare set just in case it presents itself as an issue while I'm away, but I've never needed them.

Oatesy.


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 Post subject: Re: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:48 am
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Location: Portland, OR
Oatesy wrote:
Hi John,

The stainless cable on the Mirage Drive chains is one thing to check for fraying from time to time. Typically you can expect years of use before it's an issue though.
I have a spare set just in case it presents itself as an issue while I'm away, but I've never needed them.

Oatesy.


Thanks, that is great information!

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Fish tremble when they hear my name :)

A ship in harbor is safe -- but that is not what ships are built for.
--John A. Shedd, Salt from My Attic, 1928


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 Post subject: Re: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 10:24 am 
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Good idea for a thread.

I'm guilty of doing the bare minimum after a kayak trip. I usually just use an old broom head to brush the sand and dried salt off the hull since its stored in my public storage unit. Although if I had a successful fishing trip and there's blood or scales still on the Revo, I might use a wet rag to wipe her down.

I've never lubed the mirage drive, and I've had this current one since Feb of this year. I am going to start paying more attention to the mirage drive and tuning the tension as well since I frequently "skip a sprocket" as my friends call it, resulting in my fins not lining up when the pedals are lined up.


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 Post subject: Re: Checklist for kayak
PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 11:04 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:48 am
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Location: Portland, OR
Jcanracer wrote:
Good idea for a thread.

I'm guilty of doing the bare minimum after a kayak trip. I usually just use an old broom head to brush the sand and dried salt off the hull since its stored in my public storage unit. Although if I had a successful fishing trip and there's blood or scales still on the Revo, I might use a wet rag to wipe her down.

I've never lubed the mirage drive, and I've had this current one since Feb of this year. I am going to start paying more attention to the mirage drive and tuning the tension as well since I frequently "skip a sprocket" as my friends call it, resulting in my fins not lining up when the pedals are lined up.


I usually just hose off the kayak and throw it in the garage. I do lube the drive about once a month. If you are getting skipping in your drive you may need to replace or re-tension your chain. On bicycles you get skipping when you get "chain stretch". Chain stretch is when the pins in the chain wear out oval shaped holes in the plates on the chain. This causes the chain to lengthen. The longer chain no longer sits properly in the gears and can ride up, eventually skipping. Not sure if this is the same mechanism you may have going on. If you bike too much with a "stretched" chain you will eventually shark tooth the gears - not sure if that is possible in the mirage drive.

Finally, for anyone who lubes their chain, if you are not already you need to be aware that lube will attract and trap dirt eventually turn the lube into an abrasive compound that will accelerate the above "stretching" phenomenon. I would recommend at least occasionally (if not every time) cleaning the chain (with some type of solvent like Simple Green, wd-40 or something more toxic) before re-lubing (note that wd40 is mostly a solvent and not a lube). This helps a ton on a bike chain and is probably a good idea for the drive. Not sure how Hobie or others feel about this.

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Fish tremble when they hear my name :)

A ship in harbor is safe -- but that is not what ships are built for.
--John A. Shedd, Salt from My Attic, 1928


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