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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 5:38 am 
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Location: New Smyrna Beach, FL
I did my first modification on my Revo 13 this week. I added the, very necessary, Mirage leash. As you can see from my first picture here, it was centered nicely on the left side of the mast holder....

Image

Unfortunately, I was not thinking about the bow hatch shock cord placement...

Image

Luckily, it does not interfere with the function of either but aesthetically, it looks a bit crowded. Next time, I will remember to consider the placement of gear and rigging.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:23 pm 
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Location: Sarasota FL
I assume a "mirage leash" is a safety line to your drive.
Under what circumstances should I be concerned about losing the drive?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:45 pm 
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Location: Amelia Island, FL
Only time that you may wish to be concerned is when you remove the drive while in water. Perfect example would be coming back in through the surf! Doubt you


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 5:03 pm 
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Good point.
I've been spoiled by relatively clear or calm surf.
I typically just use the bungee to clip the drive flush.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 5:16 pm 
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Location: New Smyrna Beach, FL
In my short tenure as a Hobie owner, I have envisioned many situations where it is possible to turn over and lose the mirage drive and any other item that may not be attached to the kayak.

We own 3 Hobies (06 Adventure, 08 Oasis, and 12 Revo 13). The Oasis is primarily used by guests or my wife and youngest child and the Adventure is used by my wife on our couple's trips. I have seen the old Mirage clamps come loose on both the Adventure and Oasis and I have had a few guests turn over the Oasis. On my Revo 13, I have inadvertently disengaged the Mirage clamps while fishing. These situations are prime moments where a turn over could lead to a lost Mirage drive ($500). We move through some active currents and, sometimes, the water is as clear as mud. We also plan on some ocean ventures and we all know how rough the surfside can be.

As an individual that seeks to reduce the magnitude of loss with insurance, I feel that a small investment in a leash is justified by the potential loss that could be incurred from one simple weight shift in a kayak.

One doesn't have to spend 18 bucks on a Hobie brand leash for this protection but I like Hobie products and I want to have the better known (if not better quality) products on my newest kayak (Revo 13). I plan on trying out some DIY leashes on our other kayaks that could result in substantial cost savings.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:42 pm 
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Its a nice-to-have but not a necessity. I've rolled the Revo11 and the drive stayed in place. However, I almost never launch with the drive in place, (maybe my own stupidity) I tuck the tips of the fins under the seat as I lay the mirage drive down and hop in preferring to paddle past the first surf break then drop the drive in when I have some distance from the beach. So maybe in THAT scenario it might be good to invest in a leash :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 3:17 am 
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Wndrfl, can I ask you or other users of the Hobie leash how exactly you attach it?

The catalogue images show the shock-cord end looped through a triangular space on the drive:
Image

My mirage drive (used boat, bought recently) doesn't have a space there - it's filled in. Do I need to drill that space out to have a leash attachment?

Thanks,
Mary


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 5:54 am 
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Following up on my "why do you need it" post above...

So yesterday as I'm getting out of my kayak and for the first time I'm thinking about the need for a safety line on my drive. And it dawns on me, WHY NOT JUST REPLACE THE BUNGEED HOOK with a CARABINER?

Seems like a much simpler and cheaper solution, and don't need to put new holes in the boat. The existing bungee is already there, a big enough carabiner would still work on the drive shift to hold the fins flush in shallows/coming ashore, and I can think of several other things I could attached to the carabiner during a trip.

So I'm thinking to remove the hook, then make a loop out of the end of the bungee, fastening the loop with a stainless steel clip or wire, and sliding the carabiner onto it. Heck, I could even keep the hook on the loop WITH the carabiner so I could have both.

Feel free to poke holes in this theory before I run out and do it.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:27 pm 
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Location: New Smyrna Beach, FL
Mary Skater wrote:
Wndrfl, can I ask you or other users of the Hobie leash how exactly you attach it?

The catalogue images show the shock-cord end looped through a triangular space on the drive:
My mirage drive (used boat, bought recently) doesn't have a space there - it's filled in. Do I need to drill that space out to have a leash attachment?

Thanks,
Mary



Mary- I had the same question. The kit comes with an eye hook (proper name?) that you attach to the kayak and that is what I did.

Update:
How embarrassing! Obviously, I can't read. Sorry Mary, I must have imagined what I read. I think there is a post out there related to your question. I did see one video where the leash was just lashed to a pedal arm and I believe I saw a posting where one drills a hole in the forward part of the drive.

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Last edited by Wndrfl on Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:40 pm 
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sunday wrote:
Following up on my "why do you need it" post above...

So yesterday as I'm getting out of my kayak and for the first time I'm thinking about the need for a safety line on my drive. And it dawns on me, WHY NOT JUST REPLACE THE BUNGEED HOOK with a CARABINER?

Seems like a much simpler and cheaper solution, and don't need to put new holes in the boat. The existing bungee is already there, a big enough carabiner would still work on the drive shift to hold the fins flush in shallows/coming ashore, and I can think of several other things I could attached to the carabiner during a trip.

So I'm thinking to remove the hook, then make a loop out of the end of the bungee, fastening the loop with a stainless steel clip or wire, and sliding the carabiner onto it. Heck, I could even keep the hook on the loop WITH the carabiner so I could have both.

Feel free to poke holes in this theory before I run out and do it.


Coincidentally, I stopped by West Marine yesterday afternoon and bought about 30 feet of 1/4" shock cord (on sale) and a couple of packages of hog rings. I also stopped by Home Depot and bought a few more SS carabiners (cheaper at Home Depot vs. West Marine) as well as some Velcro straps.

I was playing around and making some leashes for paddles and my new YakAttack 8' ParkNpole. I have to say it was a pretty darn easy DIY and it is much more cost effective.

Therefore, I say "go for it". If you Google "shock cord connectors" you will find so many different ways to work with this product. My only question is where, on the kayak, are you going to attach the leash? I had once thought about attaching it to the bungee that holds down the bow hatch but I realized that, in a worst case scenario, I would save the mirage drive but my kayak would be filled with water from the loose front hatch.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:53 am 
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Location: Dumfries, SW Scotland
Wndrfl wrote:
Mary Skater wrote:
Wndrfl, can I ask you or other users of the Hobie leash how exactly you attach it?

The catalogue images show the shock-cord end looped through a triangular space on the drive:
My mirage drive (used boat, bought recently) doesn't have a space there - it's filled in. Do I need to drill that space out to have a leash attachment?

Thanks,
Mary



Mary- I had the same question. The kit comes with an eye hook (proper name?) that you attach to the kayak and that is what I did.


Sorry, my question wasn't clear. Attaching to the kayak is not a problem; I have an inflatable, which has a ring mounted on the side tube in a convenient place to clip on to. It's the attachment to the drive that seems to need a small modification, at least on my drive.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:42 am 
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Location: Mandurah, Western Australia
sunday wrote:
WHY NOT JUST REPLACE THE BUNGEED HOOK with a CARABINER?


I like the way you think.

Oatesy.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:45 am 
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Location: Spokane, WA
Mary,

I had the same question, as my 2008 Outback drive had no hole in the "Triangle". My 2009 Outback had the hole. So I just took a small drill bit and drilled a few holes, then used the side motion of the drill to connect the hole. I left the hole rough, but need to go back and use a dremmel tool or small file or rasp to smooth up the hole. The cost of the hobie leash (about $18) is far cheaper than replacement cost of the mirage drive ($550).

I have not yet installed the attachment points but I am using a small caribiner and the forward hatch cord to keep it in place. But after reading the fact that pulling the forward hatch open will fill the boat with water, I will be making the change. Also looking at the Revo 13 picture and seeing how the "loop" was attached, I will mount mine in a different, out of the way, spot.

Lots of good lessons learned...

2008 Outback
2009 Outback
2012 PA 12'
2010 Native Watercraft Mariner 12.5

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:21 am 
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Thanks, wjpelka and Wndrfl, for the clarification. I've got an older drive, so I guess it's the newer ones which leave that space clear for the leash. I've done a test hole through the "triangle" in mine, and the filler is only plastic, so clearing out enough space for the leash is on my "things to do" list.

Whether people use the Hobie leash or a home-made one, it seems to me that leashing the drive is a good idea. I'm sure there are people who don't use a leash and have never needed one, but I'll go with the cautious crowd.

Mary


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:03 am 
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I did not have a hole in the drive either so I used the length adjustment hole that is already in place. I made sure it would not hit the other side of the drive. That worked too.


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