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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:51 am 
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Maybe I'm not mechanically inclined, but I needed to replace a V1 axle (which was 'walking' and causing headaches) with a V2 axle. Figured it would be a good time, too, to completely strip, clean and lubricate the drive.

Man, getting the chains and idler cable back on is a bear. First, there's no room to really get a wrench on the nylock nuts and you have to pinch the cable just behind the nut with needlenose pliers, or something, and you turn the nut 1/8th turn by 1/8th turn...

Then, it seems like there's zero slack -- either the front chain goes on, but the rear chain can't, or vice versa. And, while wrestling with this, the drive flops around, opens, closes...it's like trying to tattoo an octopus. :(

Just venting. I'm sure there's a secret I'm missing.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 6:38 am 
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I can't speak about the V1 clearance for tools, but my V2 Mirage Drive has 9/16" nuts that are easily adjusted with this Sears wrench.....http://www.sears.com/craftsman-7-16-in- ... 942635000P

I have a complete set of these wrenches I paid about $32.00.
The ratcheting end makes quick work of turning/adjusting the nuts.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:47 am 
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There's no reason to completely take apart a Mirage drive to install a drum shaft - you can basically hit the old one out with the new one - it just slides into place. Sorry you're having so much trouble, any dealer should be able to get you back up and running if you need assistance.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:07 am 
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Yeah, one of those ratcheting wrenches would be nice!

I'm just whining. I could have drifted the axle out without taking the drive apart, but figured it would be a good chance to get everything cleaned, apply a nice coat of fresh grease where appropriate, etc. Plus I think it was easier to make sure the axle was dead-centered by tapping with just the center piece (whatever that's called) involved.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:21 am 
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Roadrunner has written a number of drive maintenance FAQs we saved. Some for tuning and lubrication:

Kayak Forums FAQ http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=107

Drive maintenance (3 part series): http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=12577

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:40 am 
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Location: Lexington, NC
Reading Roadrunner's tips very helpful.

Basicly,
Mark center chain link and cog.
Just start the nuts & don't fully adjust nuts until both chains are on.
Make sure idler cable is inside of leading chain cable.
All else should go smoothly.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 11:27 am 
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OK --

Thanks, all. Here's where I went astray, and I'll relate as it might help others.

1) Not all teeth in the sprocket are identical. I didn't realize this until looking closely, then the wisdom of marking the center of the middle link on the chain became apparent. Seat that center link, per instructions RR wrote (thx for link Matt), and voila.

2) A vice really helps, as well as loosely tieing the pedals together, so they don't splay apart while working.

3) My idler cable is different than what some of the pictures show, and it runs near slot to near slot (this one has a brass flange on one end, to prevent it from slipping out of the slot). @Drew -- this idler cable still runs *outside* the drive chains, on mine and every picture I can see, no?

Anyway, #3 got me because there is no way my idler cable will reach if I slot it through the outside slots in the drums, so I thought I had my drive assembled incorrectly.

I'll buy a set of those ratchet wrenches. I've spent more on less in my life, that's for sure. It's still a little frustrating tightening the nuts, but I think I understand now.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 6:33 pm 
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Location: Auckland NZ
The V1 cables are a b*gg*r to adjust as you have found out because there's nothing to stop the cable twisting as you wind up the nut and, as you have quite rightly said, there's no room to get a spanner in.

The only solution is to change up the the V2 components which you can do (I have done it). You need to change a lot of bits and the cables that go with them but once done you have a drive with cables that are far more easily adjusted than before - the cables do not twist as you adjust and there is better access for your spanner.

I think it was worth the cost because you can perform essential maintenance far more easily, and even out at sea, with a smaller set of tools (because pliers are no longer required to hold the cable still).

When I did my drive it came apart into its component pieces as you would expect.... it is just the most fiendishly cunning yet impressively simple contraption isn't it?!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 10:25 am 
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Location: New Smyrna Beach, FL
If you stick with the V1 Mirage Drives, it is a worthwhile investment to purchase the needle nose vice grip pliers. It makes cable adjustment/removal a breeze.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 5:09 pm 
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Well, as a follow-up, I brought another mirage drive home from the coast, for similar treatment. This is a V2 drive (I have 3 Hobie kayaks), and is *much* easier.

I also discovered a 7/16" nut driver fits well enough to handle the nuts - huge time savings.

For the metal parts I either use Break-Free CLP, or a Dupont Teflon metal lubricant, and then marine grease where appropriate. What are everyone's thoughts on Armor All for the hard plastic pieces?

Thx!


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