Seat Riser with self draining scupper valves

First I want to thank Tom Kirkman for his excellent solution of raising the seat with 8lb expanding foam. It was this great idea that brought my adaptation to reality.
I will post his solution for it, since it is the prelude to my finished product.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrdT0gzQPww

Where I strayed from his original concept was to eliminate the PVC sleeves. I found the self draining scupper plugs by Ocean Kayak at my local kayak dealer and saw how they could easily be utilized. The scuppers are a purge valve design. The purge valve is held by a retainer snapped into the main housing with an o-ring seal. The entire valve is 1-1/4" in diameter but too long to be used in a Hobie scupper.

I raised the seat with the foam letting the foam fill the scupper recess. I taped over the top of the scupper plug flange opening with painters tape so the foam would not lock onto the plug. I taped over the seat peg holes with painters tape. Sprayed the seat well liberally with silicone mold release and poured 8 ounces (4 oz each of foam and activator) total mixed and let set for 20 minutes. I then poured 2 ounces ( 1 ea.) of the mix from a squeeze bottle to fill in the perimeter. The mix sticks quite well to the seat even with the mold release and it takes some careful prying to lift it out.



The foam seat was sanded down on the street asphalt in front of my house as in Tom's video.

Once out I drilled the scupper opening with 1/4" pilot hole through from the bottom centering on the scupper recess. Note the scupper plugs are not centered so center on the entire depression. Using a 1-1/4" hole saw I drilled through following the pilot hole.
The Ocean Kayak scupper is too long so I cut it down to flush with the retainer clip. Remove the o-ring. This new cut down valve will be pressed into the 1-1/4" opening flush with the top. The depth of the scupper depression is deep enough that the rubber purge valve will open without obstruction. Keep valves aside till after the seat riser is painted.



I then painted the seat riser top and bottom with Rustoleum Never Wet 2 step process to waterproof it and then painted with a grey primer. Before inserting the scupper valves I put a bead of silicone in the groove of the o- ring letting the bead extend out of the groove. Pressing the valve in the silicone seals around it. I then filled the perimeter recesses around the retainer clip with silicone. Do not get any inside the valve itself.



I seated the riser with silicone around bottom perimeter and a bead around the scupper depressions. My edge was a little high so I sealed the perimeter with silicone flush to the deck.

SPECIAL NOTE: You see I did not use the seat plugs. I have a Skwoosh seat and no need for them. Those that want to use the Hobie seat follow Tom's video for adding the peg holes into the seat riser.

I now have best of both worlds a raised seat (approximately 1" to 1-1/4") to eliminate the puddle and self draining one way scuppers. My choice of silicone does make it removable with fairly easy cleanup.

Revo

_________________
I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.

That's pretty awesome Revo!
Btw; when we gonna sail Morningside/Biscayne? I want to see this new mod in person, I'm ready to mod my revolution 11 to eliminate the puddle too.

M0DIFICATION PART TWO:

One of the other inherent characteristics of the 2010 revolution 13 hull design is the scoop at the carry handle. It funnels water up into the kayak even on nice water. Too many times sitting and fishing a small (6") wave or boat wake would fountain up and into my lap when the wave broadsides the kayak. Sitting fishing was a constant barrage of spits of water into my lap from the windward side. My 2008 model never had this issue nor the seat puddle. Sadly just one wave made the puddle others just added to it.

I took a sheet of 12" x 12" x 1/8" neoprene rubber to create a diverter at the top of the handle. I took off the handle and using a sheet of paper I made a template of an upside down 'U' aligning the top edge with the gunnel and kept a 1-1/2" width of the 'U' extending it under the handle. Punch a hold through the rubber with the tip of scissors for the handle screws. Put a bead of silicone behind the top and side edges and press against hull. The two handle screws hold it in place and the two additional screws above hold it against the irregular shape of the hull. Place ratchet straps around kayak to hold the rubber against the hull till silicone sets up. Clamps do not work here. See picture above.

The diverter reverses the water funneling up the handle scoop. Less water in the boat less chance of a puddle. It does not interfere with the carry handle.




Thanks Jcanracer,
I have been out of commission with an arm injury for several months and now ready to get back on the water. I would like to get to Morningside in a couple weeks. I need to get fishing and also sail.

_________________
I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.

UPDATE:
Total success. No puddle and only got water in seat from two large boat wakes which quickly drained away. Winds were 10 - 20 knots moderate chop on the bay. The diverters kept broadside waves from splashing up the handle scoops. I never had a puddle to sit in after 2.5 hours of fishing and 2 hours of sailing. The one way valves kept any water coming up a scupper under sail even when keeled on the side at a good clip. The only water that got in my seat while sailing were waves while getting in and out of the kayak.

Big difference from last time same area much calmer conditions and sat in puddle for hours fishing.

Revo

_________________
I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.

Is this because the valves work, or simply because the bottom of the seat is now above water level?

The low point of the scupper holes sadly are higher than the seat bottom which results in the puddle that can never drain. The foam raises the seat bottom just above that point and high enough that the flapper of the trimmed valves can work. Leave at least a 1/4" airspace between the bottom of valve and the scupper throat recess for the flapper to fall open. The valves are one way and prevent water from coming back in whether stationary, leaning or in motion.

Revo

_________________
I would rather be kayaking and think about work than to be at work thinking about kayaking.
A Thrill Ride is being dragged around in your kayak for 40 minutes by an extremely large fish.