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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 8:30 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 4:42 pm
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I am over whelmed by the choices of saddles, cross bars, pad, j racks, t racks, etc etc. What is the best system for transporting my 12 foot Hobie mirage outback on racks? I keep hearing about warping hulls and oil canning etc. I have jeep with a congo cage and Yakima crossbars so I can adapted just about anything. I just need to know what works best for my yak.Thanks for all the help!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:04 am 
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honestly nothing is needed. Crossbars are best - just flip the kayak u-side-down so it rests on the cockpit rails. That's how we suggest transport and storage - maybe a set of bar pads and a couple of tie-down straps...that's it.

Review the owner's manual for tips - link: http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/mirage-kayak-manual.pdf

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:41 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 226
Location: Ogden, Utah
I recently got a new ride for my Prangler 14. I bought Thule bars, and a couple of front tow eyes. Together with my old set of Hully Rollers, I was set. Took it out for the first time just yesterday. No problems and having the 'yak up there only cost me one mpg highway in calm conditions.

Side View:

Image


And the Hully Rollers that make loading so easy:

Image

I've never noted any hull deformation after the tie-down straps are removed, but I'm careful to put the cross bars under scupper areas. On my Durango, I made a wooden block that fit into the drive hole - it prevented any side-side movement and also helped with fore-aft sliding. I'll probably add that to this rig soon.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:59 am
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I would tie fore and aft to reduce sliding forward or backwards. Also helps with twisting action in the wind and this will loosen the tie downs too... Good Luck


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:09 pm
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Did you ever have those metal hooks come loose? I gather they are designed to hook into something solid, not on to nylon straps. Hope you never have an issue ,


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 5:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 2:02 pm
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I use the Thule 'Glide and Set' for my Outback. I alternate between two cars as well, so it is easy to transfer back and forth. I've driven about 1000 miles with this set up in the past 5 months and it has worked great. I only use two straps @ the crossbars, I personally don't think that if the kayak breaks off of the roof-rack that the small handle(s) at the front and back with straps will do any good, this is just my own opinion and I love to travel with kayaks; many drives to NC, NJ, DE, and PA.

Good luck in your choice, there are lots of them!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:09 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:35 am
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Location: Ogden, Utah
Nope, never had an issue with the hooks coming loose. Don't see how it would be possible as long as the straps are tight.

I use front tiedowns only. Because I run the ratchetting straps inside the carry handles, the kayak can't move fore or aft. The front tiedowns do help with side movement in crosswinds. Rear ties would block access to the rear cargo door, and wouldn't keep the kayak from sliding forward because the kayak sticks out to the rear. The kayak sits in the Hully Rollers at the rear, preventing any side-side motion there.


BTW, those "Figure Nine" rope hooks on the front tiedowns are genius. No knots, no slippage, and no damage to the rope. I got mine at Harbor Freight, but you can find them anywhere they sell rope, probably. Get some.

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