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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 9:53 pm 
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Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 2396
Location: Escondido
skymax wrote:
Ah darn it, I had a non-swivel cleat on the boat but it did not have a free enough range of movement and sometimes the rope just would not run on the wheel, so I took it back to the shop and exchanged it for a more-expensive swivel type :(

Just one question, what do you use to secure the other end of the mast when stowed?

The swivel block will work fine -- just be careful to get all the twist and kinks out of your mainsheet before you get aboard.

Mine just sits there, but you can rig a small line or bungee or tuck it under your seat strap. It's the forward end that tends to slide off if you don't have something to secure it. 8)


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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:59 pm
Posts: 349
Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW, Australia
KK.

http://202.60.65.6/SkyMax/index.php?alb ... 022285.jpg

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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 10:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 6:56 am
Posts: 822
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Max,
I’m assuming your questions on 4 May were addressed to me, so I will try to answer them. If anyone else would like to comment, feel free.

1. Mounting hardware: as RR says, always use SS thru-mounted machine screws with Nylock nuts or standard nuts and washers, IF (big IF) you have inside-the-hull access. If not, I use #10 oval or flat head or sheet metal self-tapping screws. But I try to always use thru-bolted machine bolts whenever possible for increased strength, even on fairly stress-free eyepads (or padeyes, or pad eyes, or deck loops, etc.).
2. No shackle on the stern eyepad—just a carabiner for easy removal of the Harken block and for a clean fair lead and better angle to the forward block. I did use a shackle on the forward Harken block, however, for similar reasons.
3. I have gone over most of the stock Hobie internal hardware and replaced it with the thru-bolted stuff to eliminate the inward-projecting, very sharp self-tappers installed by Hobie, which can give some nasty injuries to either your appendages or your dry bags/flotation inside the hull. Here are a couple of examples inside the Sport:

BEFORE:
Image

AFTER:
Image

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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:59 pm
Posts: 349
Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW, Australia
Good good, thanks for the info its all going in the To Do List.

I was suprised to see Hobie use ordinary tech screws considering the general build quality but I suppose that it is good enough for the application and only the kind of ppl that write in the Forums care about details like that.

Having come from a light manufacturing background (Aircraft), I know that things have to be built to a price and every little hardware improvement you make, or build time you add, increases the final cost to the Consumer.

I guess if there was nothing to tinker with some of the fun would be gone ; )

Next Thursday I add a soft tensioned baton to the foot of the sail. Now before anyone cautions me about this:
Yes, I am having a special sleeve added to the Foot and not using the existing sleeve.
No, I am not trying to create a Boom I am simply reducing the Luff and creating a better sail shape particularily for downwind trimming.
Report will follow.

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