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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2007 11:08 am
Posts: 30
Location: Yarmouth, Peoples Republik of Taxachusetts USA
:!: The original and very convenient Hobie cart is a great concept and design but I've been slowly scuffing up and grinding down the end of the keel...
Up until a week ago I was using the Hobie quick wheels...
SOLO loading and unloading my Revo into the bed of my full size pickup was producing scuffs and unsightly skeg rash...
Parking lots, asphalt, and gravel were all part of my daily grind (not to mention some fine Columbian java!).
Probably NO BIGGIE but I like taking care of good stuff...
and probably have too much free time along with OCD & PTSD issues...
but I digress!

I had this roll-eeze cart in the garage for another boat and started playing around with wheel positioning options and came up with some interesting (to me anyway) and promising results...
When the strap-on ('soundz dirty) cart wheels are moved to the stern, the tongue weight obviously increases but so too does the keel clearance when raising the bow into the truck bed...
I've got a stay-put quick release strap in the truck bed to keep things from coming undone like the boat sliding off the tailgate on to the ground...see pic
I load and unload solo and I'm always looking to make the process safer and easier...
The roll-eeze cart stays on after loading until it's time to make a SPLASH...
note to self:
If boat speed is very slow despite paddalling very hard something isn't right...always remember to remove cart once in the water!
JUST KIDDING...but I digress AGAIN!...
Once off the truck...
If my boat has a long way to travel for launch I'll reposition the wheels to better center the load to take the weight off the front carry handle...

:?: Am I the only one with skeg rash/keel grinding issues?! :?:

Sligthtly handicapped...Moderately decorate...Veteran with issues...
The bow can be hauled up on the tailgate (without throwing my back out or annoying my rotator cuff)...
Then the clip is attached to the front carry handle to keep the boat from sliding back or off to the side (and on my foot)...
Then the rear carry handle is used to lift/slide the boat into the bed (without any personal injury! :) )...
Tied in place with the wheels still firmly strapped on for a fast and easy offload to the waters edge at the launch site...
When ready to offload, I'll slide the boat back until the nose safety strap comes tight and settle the boat down on the "landing gear"...
Unhook the nose safety strap and I'm off to the races...
Remove the wheels and make a SPLASH!

I've been doing this drill all week and it's getting better each time...
Old age, skill and cunning, leverage, wheels, straps, and a loaded Revo coming soon to a beach near you! :wink:

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Last edited by area61 on Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 am
Posts: 441
Location: Florida
Area61 - Nice ideas!

My Islands are too long for any bed loading and I found a way around "skeg rash" - a little tape and a piece of carpet.

Carpet gets bungied to the skeg using the rudder bungie points.

Image

I made a loading roller that I drop in place after folding out the bed extender for EZ 1 person loading.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 4:48 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
Now thats what I call a truckload of fun. :D
gwiz


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 10:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
Area, as long as you have both sets of wheels, why not strap them both on? The front set takes the weight while the rear set keeps the skeg from scraping!

BTW, I frequently launch with my wheels in. some people think it's a sign of absent mindedness, but it offers some great advantages. You can get a great workout without having to go far. If the weather turns sour quickly, no problem -- you're always within 100' of the launch area! If you discover that you forgot your water bottle, life vest, etc, your vehicle is easily accessible for a quick retrieval.

This isn't really a new idea, but rather an adaptation to the old Amphicar concept (closely related to the Hobie Mirage Drive system, it also employs foot pedals):
Image

No storage problem for the wheels, and you don't have to re-insert them when done -- just roll the boat right out of the water like this:
Image
8)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:04 pm
Posts: 598
Location: Hawaii, Big Island
I made a loading roller that I drop in place after folding out the bed extender for EZ 1 person loading.

Yak I don't see that in you pic.

Any chance of some photos? My olo load effort needs a change.

Is that a Nissan roof rack?Are you using it or just the add ons?

Aloha

Dan

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:54 am
Posts: 30
Location: Va. Beach, Va
I too have had problems with keel rash on my Hobie. Solved it by taking some of the stuff they make casts out of for broken and sprainded arms and stuff. Got it when my wife broke her wrist. It comes in sheets, is about 1/8" thick and you put it in hot water. It gets real soft and molds right to what ever shape you want. When cool it holds it's shape. Made a couple of covers for my keel and glued em on with goop. Here's a pic of the 1st one. I've since re-done it a little smaller and a cleaner look. It works great, no drag in the water and super lightweight.
Image[/img]


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 am
Posts: 441
Location: Florida
AlohaDan wrote:
I made a loading roller that I drop in place after folding out the bed extender for EZ 1 person loading.

Yak I don't see that in you pic.

Any chance of some photos? My olo load effort needs a change.

Is that a Nissan roof rack?Are you using it or just the add ons?

Aloha

Dan


They are Thule racks and a 2x4 added to the stock Nissan roof rack using 2 "U" clamps - so there are 3 places for the Island to rest on (was always worried about balancing weight along the entire 16' of the Island hull). The height of the Thules are made even to the 2x4 on the Nissan stock roof rack.

Image

Pic of loader to follow


Last edited by Yakaholic on Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 am
Posts: 441
Location: Florida
I used 2 large PVC pipes "U" clamped permanently to the fold out bed extender. They are out of the way and do not impede the fold out extender in any way.

Image

I then constrcted a roller frame out of PVC re-inforced with steel eletrical conduit pipe in the center. PVC alone is too bendy and not strong enough. The frame just drops into place into the PVC pipes mounted to the bed extender. So the roller is only used for kayak load/unload and otherwise is put away.
The roller frame is a loose fit into the fixed PVC pipes on the extender - drops-in in seconds.

Image

I have since replaced the center section with a tapered nylon boat roller - like one has on a boat trailer. The section covered w/ purple foam is just a brace and for support for the roller frame.

So, I fold out the extender, drop in the roller-frame, lift front of Island onto the center roller, walk to the back of kayak and push kayak onto the rear-most thule crossbar lifting the stern up after enough of the kayak is on the truck. It happens in one rather fluid motion and I never have to lift the entire kayak. Only the front, then the rear.

I flip the kayak onto its gunnels and can load a second along w/ 2 masts/sails as shown in a previos pic.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:04 pm
Posts: 598
Location: Hawaii, Big Island
Tartan/Yak

Mahalo

Dan

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
Yak, very nice arrangement! 8)


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