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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 12:30 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
Sooner or later your shock cord will probably get a little stretched. One of the most common is the paddle bungee. You can buy the materials, but not a replacement finished product, so here's how to rebuild it.

Tools:
Hobie screw in fitting tool PN # 71115101 (recommended)
Standard pliers

Parts:
1/4" Shockcord PN # RS014BLK
1/2" Hog Ring PN # 21180000 (may be able to re-use your old one)
Shockcord End PN # 71115001 (should be able to re-use your old one)

In most of the Hobies the bungee is secured with a screw-in fitting called a "shockcord end" (top center in picture below). You can unscrew this using a "screw-in fitting tool" (middle, picture below).
Image

1. Estimate how much you need to shorten the bungee, and then unscrew the fitting
Image

2. Cut the old bungee out. Save the parts for now.

3. You should be able to re-use your old shockcord end. Thread a loop of strong string through the hole, loop it around about midway through your new bungee and pull it firmly through as shown below:
Image

4. You may be able to re-use your old Hog Ring. Position it around the cord as shown to give you your desired length, then crimp with pliers. It's better to have your new bungee too short than too long, as you can stretch it but not shrink it!
Image

Image

5. Your finished product should look like this. Snip off any extra cord and carefully re-insert the new piece, taking care not to cross thread the plastic.

Image

6. To replace your original pull tab, tie a loop of small cord (shown below is "550 parachute cord) on the bungee. You should be back in business with a nice snug fit:
Image

Replacing a single bungee (not doubled over), it's much easier -- all you have to do is push it through your shockcord end and tie a simple overhand knot on the end. Here, you can re-use your original pull tab. 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 2:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Another page for the Hobie workshop manual! :wink:
Thanks Roadrunner :)


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:34 am
Posts: 267
Location: Banana River , Fl
Do you have any suggestions for the older boats that appear to be pop riveted on in two places?? I'll bet there's not a retro kit to convert to the newer style either...is there?

Thanks

TC

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TC


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
TC, these screw in fittings are molded in to the boat at the factory so there is no way to create a new one.

There are a couple of things you might be able to do though. If you can reach your old fitting from inside the hull, you can drill out any loose rivets and replace them with stainless machine screws and nuts. OR, you can abandon the fitting, and put a new one where ever you can reach from inside. You can also melt a little plastic in old abandoned holes (Hobie may have free plastic welding rods) or plug them with screws. Some of the older boats are pretty inaccessible from the interior -- that's why they used the rivets I suspect.

If you have a flat surface available, you can always cut a hole and insert a new hatch, thereby gaining access.

If you're just needing to replace a bungee from a good padeye, you can cut off the old bungee and either tie a new one on or tie it to a small loop of light line secured to the fitting. Not the best looking solution but perhaps functional. Good luck! 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:37 am 
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Location: Banana River , Fl
I don't know the year of my boat, but there is no access to the back side of these pop rivets. Actually the rivets are some I've never seen before with a large rounded head.

It'd be nice if they maded a flanged socket that one could drill a 1" hole and glue/ weld the socket in place. Then you could screw in the newer fitting.

I need to find out if they make these in Stainless http://www.cardinalcomponents.com/plusnut.htm
or if Hobie has an equivalent. At least I could replace the cords w/o having to drill out the rivet each time.

Thanks

TC

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:53 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2007 6:32 pm
Posts: 47
Location: South Carolina
Not sure what you are describing in your post. I thought all of them had the screw in style fitting as he shows here.

As for the inserts, Hobie has a rubber well nut with a metal thread at the bottom. As you screw in the screw, it pulls up and actually creates a tight seal around the hole you drilled. Pretty sweet. I think the Hobie part number is 8050221. Go here to get the Hobie parts catalog:

http://www.hobiecat.com/kayaking/accessories.html

Page 22 has a nice rigging kit that includes the well nuts as well as nylon nuts and other great hardware. Or you can always purchase parts separately from your dealer. Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:34 am
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Location: Banana River , Fl
Those well nuts would probably work.

I wish I knew the year of my boats, but it appears as I'm the third owner and the second one either did not know or didn't wish to reveal. Basically, the shock cord that holds the paddle in place is about 12" long and runs parallel with the boat. Each end is terminated with plastic flat eye that's been riveted in place. There's a stainless screw up on the gunnel which one would loop the cord around to secure the paddle.

THANKS for the well nut info.

TC

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:17 pm 
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Location: Escondido
TC, if you know your serial #, it contains the year built, model and model year. If you want to post it, someone can tell you . You will find it near the stern somewhere on the bottom of the hull hand written very faintly. Use a flashlight, chalk or grease pen to highlight if necessary.

Look up "T-nuts". They are available in stainless. There are a couple of different kinds. As I recall, Home Depot or Lowes has a small selection in stainless. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:34 am
Posts: 267
Location: Banana River , Fl
I got in too late to look for a S/N, but will when I get a chance. Thanks for telling me where to look.

T nuts could work, but you'd need to dork with them to get them to stay as ideally they should be installed from the inside and I have no access.

However, I may not need to do anything, IF I'm careful. I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, but these flat eyed shock cord terminations are a grip fit. Where you slide a sleeve over two tangs that press in against the cord and thus retains it. If you slide the sleeve back, you can "gently" extract the tangs from the cord and remove it. I don't think I can do this more than once as they appear like they're ready to break.

If this fails the Well nuts or even some "Jack nuts" http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/jacknut.asp
look like the best way to go.

Thanks to all for the help.

TC

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