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 Post subject: Hobie 18 / 18SX FAQ
PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 8607
Location: Oceanside, California
Hobie 18SE
Image

Specifications
Length: 18'
Beam: 8'
Mast Length: 28' 1"'
Sail Area: 240 Sq. Ft.
Weight: 420 lbs.
Hull Construction: Fiberglass/Foam Sandwich

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Hobie 18SX
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Specifications
Length: 18'
Beam: 8'
Mast Length: 29' 7"
Sail Area: 220 Sq. Ft.
Weight: 450 lbs.
Hull Construction: Fiberglass/Foam Sandwich

18 / 18SX Owners Manual: http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/H18%26SX_Manual.pdf

18 / 18SX Parts Guide: http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/H18_Parts.pdf

Support Pages: http://www.hobiecat.com/support/index-sail.html

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Matt Miller
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Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject: H18, SX, Magnum?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 11:25 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 8607
Location: Oceanside, California
The Hobie 18 has been built in many configurations since its introduction. Follows is the "short" history of the differences.

- Hobie 18 Standard... clear anodized aluminum.

- Hobie 18 SE... Black anodized aluminum, color tramp and sails.

- Magnum Wings... welded frame, length of tramp area.

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- Hobie 18 Magnum... add (welded frame) "Magnum" wings (1984-85 ish).

- Hobie 18 Formula... made in Europe. 1 1/2' taller mast, Mylar main and jib.

- Hobie 18 Formula... Made in the US. Standard Hobie 18 with white powder coated aluminum.

- SX Wings... Riveted wing assembly, long seat ring oval. Seat extends forward of the front x bar and aft of the rear, nearly to the transom.

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- Hobie 18 SX... Euro Formula design rig with US made SX (long ring) wings.

- Formula 18 (F18) Design class built to a "formula" made by many manufacturers. Hobie Tiger, Narca F18, Inter 18, Capricorn, Dart Hawk, Cirrus, Flyer, Twister

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 8607
Location: Oceanside, California
Hobie 18 dagger wells Differences and leak fix

Here is a drawing that shows the difference.

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Surfcity shared these repair techniques:

Generically, flanges are flat areas whose purpose is to either strengthen a part or provide a bonding surface. So, your exhaust on a car will have a 'flange' that is used as a flat surface for bolting it to the head or another exhaust part. The flat surface of a port that sits on the deck, that you put silicone under, is a flange.

On older boats, the dagger board well consisted of 3 molded parts that were later bonded together. The hull, then the well itself, then the deck. So what you have is this 'flange' on each part that's used to bond the parts together. Since no glue is capable of withstanding twisting, flexing, heating and cooling indefinitely, after about 20 years or so the parts need to be glued back together. The purpose of a flange in this case is to enable the parts to be bonded together over a 4cm flat surface rather than a butt joint (or other means), which isn't very strong.

By smearing some sealant on the OUTSIDE of the crack, you're not taking advantage of the superior strength and added surface area of the flanges surface. So picture this: If you smear silicone on the .5 mm crack, there's not much material to keep the water out...

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...whereas if you suck some glue into the 4cm wide flat surface you have basically just made a 4cm seal. And... you've basically just bonded your boat back together, which will stop a little flexing that may lead to more leaks down the road.

For well repairs like this, I'll take a dremel tool and grind out the crack a little (basically just remove a little gel coat), then suck unthickened epoxy into the crack using vacuum. Let it go off and do it again if needed. Then I'll thicken some epoxy, fill the hole if needed then usually leave it or gel it.

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Thanks Jeremy!

http://www.surfcitycatamarans.com
Join us on Facebook!
Contact: jeremy@surfcitycatamarans.com
PH: (831) 475-7245

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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