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 Post subject: Hobie 18F spin set-up
PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:10 am 
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Location: North Carolina
I finally took some new pics for you guys. I have changed some things up since the first pics.

This is the boat sitting on the beach
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Bridle attachments
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Spin pole attachment. Was using a tiger bracket that didn't stay in place, this bracket must be removed to remove the tramp
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And here is the spin block set-up
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You can see in the pic the pre-bend in the spin pole. This is necessary or the pole will invert when the sail pulls up on it under sail. I also tie the pole off left to right behind the snuffer hoop to prevent the pole bowing off to the side. I run a separate halyard and tack on the spin but a single system may be better for a casual sailor as its easy to forget about releasing the tack when snuffing. Any questions just let me know.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:29 am 
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Great pictures ncmbm.....much appreciated! Did you end up using the full length tiger spin pole or did you shorten it? Also, how far forward of the side shrouds did you mount your spin sheet blocks?

Thanks,

Tom


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:04 am 
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Full length spin pole(12'). The boat is on the beach so I'll need to measure next weekend for you. I think my blocks are too far forward. They work but I am pulling to much splice into the block. I think a couple inches further back would be better but it depends on the sail, specifically the foot of the sail. My sheet line looks right but its so hard to tell when you are not a sailmaker or have lots of experience.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:46 am 
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Great pix Mike, Thanks. They'll go a looong way in helping me rig a spin on my stock H18.
So you're saying the H18 pole mount vs. a Tiger mount is worth the trouble of blocking the tramp?

is the H18F designation your own? I wonder what letter my modified boat should be?

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'88 H18SE Arís


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 12:26 pm 
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Yea, the Tiger attachment is meant to be on a flat surface and the H18 doesn't allow that. The suggested fitting is better.

H18F is actually an inactive portsmouth name. There was at one time a Hobie 18 Formula which had a spin addition. The portsmouth number is there but no one will let me sail on that number. So, yours will be an 18F as well.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 12:20 pm 
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Mike,
for the spin sheet, it appears you have two turning blocks on each side with a rachet block second.
the sail is trimmed entirely hand-held?

in lighter air (+-5 knots) can it be cleated?

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'88 H18SE Arís


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 8:07 am 
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Both of the blocks on my spin sheet ratchet. The outer is auto-ratchet and the inner has a slide to turn the ratchet on and off. I purchased some blocks with cams and used them very briefly. I have found that the spin is an active sail that must be constantly trimmed for optimal performance, especially in light air. You are constantly trimming to keep proper shape and curl.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 11:02 am 
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Thanks.
From my years of experience wrestling and trimming a 110 square meter spin, we never cleat off the sheet. But then again it's a darn BIG chute. I was thinking with a measly 21 SM spin on a light day we may actually get a break once in a while.

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'88 H18SE Arís


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:34 pm 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
ncmbm wrote:
I run a separate halyard and tack on the spin but a single system may be better for a casual sailor as its easy to forget about releasing the tack when snuffing.



Saw a neat setup on a Capricorn for the seperate tack/halyard line. The cleat for the tack was mounted under the tramp, and used a spinlock. The tack line came out from the front corner of the tramp. A line to trip the Spinlock was attached to the top, and than made a loop sticking out of the tramp, and was dead ended back into the tramp. The spin halyard was ran through this loop. Halyard cleat was mounted on the mast so you had to pull down to release the halyard. In order to snuff the spinnaker you pulled on the halyard from behind the loop attached to the tack line cleat. This released the tack, and the halyard at once.

I really need to set my boat up this way. Less line, and it will allow me to pull the tack out before turning down wind. Less line = faster hoists, and you don't lose any of the advantages of the single line. Also you can run an internal tackline, that gets rid of the two blocks that have to be mounted to the pole. I think properly done, other than the ends you only need to make one hole in the whole pole.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:14 am 
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Karl,
Have you seen the blade set-up? It is optimized for single or two-up sailing. It is very similar if not identical to what you describe. The tramp is made for all the extra holes, I would be nervous about cutting holes in my tramp for the lines. It is a very clean tramp. I have a hard enough time getting the crew to grab the right line with them all different colors and laying in plain site. I can only imagine trying to explain which loop to pull and what it does beneath the tramp.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 1:10 pm 
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Location: Laguna Niguel, CA
wow that is awesome.
can you take some pics with the whole boat in the frame. i wanna see an overall view

Do you race that thing in open class races? how does it do compared to the true formula boats?

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To all of you on the Hobie Forum... I love you guys!!!
thanks for all the help!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:42 am 
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I am bad about getting pics but do have some coming of the entire boat and some sailing pics.

I race it open class as a standard 18 with all the hits for upgrades(portsmouth 66.8). The boat performs very well but will never be an F18. The daggers are the biggest hurdle, they are to big and provide no lift. The F18s actually lift to weather as they sail forward and the H18 does not. Downwind I can run with the F18s if I stay on point and make few to no mistakes. If I could race the boat with the SX numbers it would kill in open class. I don't race often but when I do we usually end up in the top 3 open. Last year I entered 2 races and got a 1st and a 2nd. I built the boat to create the fastest truely beach friendly boat possible! I really didn't care about racing it, just wanted to go fast with my friends.

I would strongly suggest the self tacking jib to any H18 owner, getting the jib cars and lines off the deck really opens the boat up and makes for a very enjoyable ride for novice crew. 6 people on the boat is easy now and all can sit comfortably where ever they want.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:05 am 
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NCMBM,

Did you put grommets in your tramp for the snuffer line?

Thanks!

J


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:15 am 
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Location: Ogden Dunes, IN
Thanks for the pix...I need to post some.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:34 am 
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J,
I didn't put grommets in the tramp for it. I initially ran it thru a tramp grommet but quickly realized that was cutting the tramp lacing. Currently it just comes up thru the lacing, I'm not 100% satisfied with that and will be changing to a eyelet on the crossbar of some type. The Tiger bag has a grommet at the rear of the bag and as long as you pay attention you can snuff without rubbing the lacing. Its another of those work on it things. I would ultimately like to have it set up like the Blades and Capricorns and if people keep burning holes in my tramp with cigarettes I will have no resistance to it.

Here is a pic of my boat heading out. You can see all but the top of the mast.
Image


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