new member, new H18 owner checking in

Admins, thanks for the quick activation.

I sailed a rental Hobie a few times in Biloxi while in Air Force tech school back in 1981. And now all these years later I have purchased one. I could count all my outings on my hands without using my toes. So I’m a newb who likes to read a lot and go for it.

I bought a 1981 H18 a couple of weeks ago and I have had it out in light winds three times now. It appears mostly original. Deviations include 1983 prism sails, number 13069. And black plastic rudder cams with one broken and a missing plunger. Jib furler is inop and needs a tune up kit and new line. The tramp looks new but not sure if its Hobie brand, how to tell? The traveler needs help, too. The hulls appear to be in good shape overall. I have read here where to look for problems and about soft spots and I think I’m ok there. The only thing is a couple of gel coat chips in the point of one bow and the gel coat is rubbed off the bottom of the hulls, it is transparent looking inside out through the ports. However there are no cracks even on the area near the rollers, I know I should change to padded troughs. But I’m not sure if I should brush new gel coat on the thin area that runs the full length of both hulls.

This forum seems cordial and I think you guys and gals can put up with my need for newb advice. So I would like to outline my plans for repairs and upgrades to get feedback and avoid the pitfalls of my own making. I can post pictures but the boat is at a friend’s house and not close by.

The primary sailing will be Smith Lake in NW Alabama, and the lake at Guntersville is not far away, probably better there but I want to get more familiar with sailing at the lake I know best.

So far, here is the “tack” I’m taking. Any and all help, opinions, and advice are most welcome.

I don’t plan to do a rudder system upgrade, just new black cams, plungers and get them latching in and out properly. The rudder boltholes seem a little sloppy but have not removed them to check what’s up. Maybe the plastic washer kit, or the holes need to be repaired, I don’t know. Also the rudders are white polyester (?) I think. They have been overpainted with white paint as well and it is peeling off in places. I think I should strip the paint off, check the trailing edge shape and maybe repair the holes. I’m seeking advice in this area.

Almost all the sheets and lines are the wrong size or, in the case of the main, too short also. I have ordered new sheets and lines for everything, plus shock cords and a new jib halyard wire, mine is spliced and I’m unsure of its length.

The shrouds and forestay have cracked but not missing vinyl and I will inspect them carefully soon. I read that some folks replace them regularly but I believe inspection should indicate if this is needed. I will be very critical and replace if any imperfections are noted. I need to keep expenses to a minimum or I won’t be sailing.

Other parts ordered include a furler tune up kit, boom cleats, a rotator/diamond wire bolt (mine appears to be too long or stretched and it might have uneven tension from one side to the other. I’ll replace and adjust as needed.), factory traveler bearings ( I have the white balls but they are not round now and used up.), and some other parts I can’t think of right now.

I chose the factory traveler bearings for convenience of sourcing and I think the traveler will be centered most of the time, if not always. A beginner sailing in winds under 15mph most of the time equals a centered traveler? Is this correct? I wore the harness on the first outing but realized I had no need for it as of yet. Also any advice about tuning for light winds on a freshwater lake is welcome. I have read some about tuning but my experience level makes it difficult at this point to get a handle on it. I think I have ran everything too tight so far ( speaking of the downhaul and outhaul here mainly). The jib blocks have been fully forward so far, but I recently read what this affects and will check it out next time. One problem is the lake requires turns every two or three minutes and there is precious little time for me to figure out trim before the next tack. And I have had some trouble completing tacks as well.

And lastly, I have sailed with crew so far, but it is clear that I will have to learn to step the mast, and sail single-handed to be on the water as much as I would like. I’ll be trailering though my brother has a dock across the lake from the ramp I use. I tied up there for one night because I couldn’t get the main down. I understand now the problem with docking a Hobie so will not be doing that often. We capsized the boat and got the main down. It came loose when I touched it while slightly under water so I don’t know what happened. (that reminds me I ordered an Aussie loop ring but not sure if I should try it or not) But the fun part was the first time righting the boat. My righting line is tied to the top of the mast and I also know that is not necessarily the best place. With the line riding on the hull it wouldn’t even “know” where it’s attached until it rises off the hull and then the deed is as good as done anyway. I should move it to the dolphin striker I think.

Well, it looks like I have written a book for my first post. I apologize for that, but I’m anxious to make some repairs and hope for some wind on the lake soon.

If you guys can get through this post I would appreciate any feedback you have to offer.

And please correct any terminology I have wrong or any apparent conceptual mistakes.

thanks

Welcome 'bama!
Man, you said a mouthful. I'd be glad to tell you a couple of the points you raised and others will most likely chime in here too.

For tacking, don't turn the boat too fast or you'll kill your speed and stall. A smooth, slightly agressive arc around to the other tack is what you're looking for. If you're having trouble finishing the tack, try waiting a few more seconds before releasing the jib to the new side, the back wind can help carry you over, but it takes practice.

Your righting line should be tied off near the mast base. The dolphin striker is the usual place. Stuff it in the tramp pocket until you need it and throw it over the side once capsized.

Releasing the mainsail to lower it is a pain sometimes. Pull the sail up a bit, then rotate the mast so the mast hook is out of the way of the halyard ring, then you can lower it cleanly. I actually have taken the keeper latch off my mast hook.

Pick up a copy of the H18 performance manual. It explains all the basic sail and rig tuning steps for varying conditions in very clear terms.

Good Luck and Enjoy!

_________________
Chris
'88 H18SE Arís

I would open a seperate topic thread on that subject.Sounds like an iffy spot on the mast to me.West coast my bud in redding has an all aluminum se mast that can be cut for the comtip but shipping is a big issue.You can find him on the 20 miracle pages (H18sailaway)his name is Wes.Better to find one on east coast.
shawn
82 H18 #8211
Div 3

Thanks for the feedback guys.

On tacking, I had read of the tips mentioned here after my initial outings. I was definitely two quick on the rudder and too far also probably. The late jib release and backwinding makes sense and I will try that next time. Good to see these tips reinforced here.

Today I installed a new main halyard and the ring with the small loop. My halyard was oversized even larger than the one size over that some prefer. My knots were huge and I had an extra shackle on the bottom knot that I removed. Hopefully these changes will help. The clip thing has already been removed on the mast. It appears the previous owner had trailered with the mast resting on the channel, so I rotated it to lay on the rounded side of the mast. Not sure if the channel is pinched or damaged or even if that can occur, but I'll inspect it carefully for damage. And I'm going to wax the sail's edge again.

I changed the righting line connection, installed new jib and main sheet, and replaced the rotator bolt today also.

I didn't receive the rudder cams and traveler bearings yet, which is what I need the most but the weather is calm for a few days anyway probably.

A correction on the sails. Number is 13076 not 069 and appear to be 85 nationals prism, based on the sail guide. Not sure if this is correct because the sail guide appears to show H16s not 18s and I don't know if they used the same patterns or sails. Also the mast has a faded label with a stamped in number which also states "Hobie Cat, a Coleman company" and I thought it was after 81 when Coleman got involved. Maybe a 81 with 85 sails and mast? Not really a concern for me, just curious.

I have downloaded the HobieU pdf and I'm not sure if that is the performance manual or not but will check into that.

Thanks again for the help, I'm sure I can make progress more quickly with the feedback from folks here with experience. That's one of the best things I like about the internet, being able to communicate with those in the know on any subject of interest.

Hey bama,the thread i posted earlier was not to do with your questions,somehow a posting about a bent mast popped up under your original post.Anyway welcome to the world of the H18!I would check the last two digits on the transom serial number,I'm willing to bet you have a newer boat than an 81.Unless someone put the mast off an 85 or newer boat.Sounds like your on the right track with your parts purchases,there is a guy(stephen) on this site and on ebay that mills out the barrel traveller bushings out of delrin that you can no longer get from Hobie.They are the ticket,they seem to slide way easier in big wind than the balls do.Make sure to get your rudder situation in order if you dont have the new castings that kick up,lube the cams well.More than one 18 has had transom failure due to hitting the beach or a shoal with the rudders locked.My 82 gets sticky sometimes and single-handing in to shore is a tough time to wrestle the rudder,pull up your daggers and furl the jib by yourself.
There is a wealth of really good guys with really good info on this site.The one thing I would suggest that you replace are the anchor pins for the side stays.These usually go un-checked until you have a problem,and believe me if one lets go you do have a big problem.Whether on the trailer setting up or in the water ,having 30 ft of mast come down with no control can be very expensive and dangerous.I believe they are 36 or 46 dollars each but well worth it.You cant inspect them in between the hull so if you have no idea if they have been done I would replace them.
I drifted down river 3 miles in current running about14 mph when mine let go,cost me about 1500 to fix everything.
shawn 82 H18 #8211 Div 3 nor-cal

Shawn, I was thinking the other day how critical the anchor pins are and if I should remove and inspect them. Maybe I should do so while I'm making the other repairs. It would only take a few minutes I believe.

My HID number does indicate it is an 81 model cat. So I think I might have some mismatch of parts but I'm ok with that if the parts function properly together. Not so concerned about correct details of originality. The sails are in good shape to the best of my ability to inspect and I like the design. If I were to repaint the hulls they would probably end up white instead of yellow.

I will get the rudders in order before the next sail, but one good thing is the lake is man made and has steep edges most everywhere. The area at the ramp I use and my brothers dock area are no problem. I can put the hulls in the sand at the side of the ramp without the rudders needing to be raised. A good thing for a newb with the old style castings.

I have an ebay account and will look for delrin bearings there, thanks for the heads up.

EXactly, who cares if you have a miss match of parts.Lets face it all of us are sailing on boats that are at least 17-30 yrs old.Main thing is to get stuff in decent working order without spending a fortune.Just pick an area on your boat and prioritize the repairs or parts you need.I cant remember what stephens sceen name is on this site.
shawn

Yep, when I saw the price for a new tiger or f18 I new I had made the right decision to go with an old model Hobie. I wouldn't be sailing if I had to go for a new boat. Years ago I had dreams of ocean crossings on a pilot house ketch or Hunter or some other worthy craft, but not all dreams come true.

I really enjoy learning how things work and doing everything myself, so repairs and upgrades are as enjoyable as the sailing itself. I can't wait to get out on the water again however. And I'm so looking forward to getting out on the trap sometime soon and getting the windward hull to skim the water.

Hi,

You mentioned that you have "black plastic cams" in your rudder castings .... correct???

The "origonal" H18 rudder castings had aluminum cams and the tiller arm is exposed in the upper casting .... the "upgraded" rudder system the tiller arm goes into the upper casting, has a adjustment nut in a slot (same as on the H17) and black plastic cams in the lowwer casting.

FYI: The "Stephen" referred to is Mr Stephen Cooley of Colorado .... and is HIGHLY ranked ..... very very very highly .... and he is a fantastic person, you will not meet anyone nicer. So his advice is .... Priceless

Have you read any of my posts???? Some maybe of interest too you

Welcome to the class

_________________
HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11

Thanks Harry, I forgot Stephens last name.
shawn

Mr Murphey,

I'm learning something new everyday. My H18 has the upgraded rudder system, that's good news. It does have the adjusting nut on the metal plate that contacts the cams. The tiller arm is not exposed. I misunderstood what the adjuster bolt was for in my reading, I thought it was to change the angle of the leading edge in relation to the pivot axis. Or maybe it does that too. Either way it's good news.



I was going to post a question in a new thread, but I'll put it here first.

I need to install a new outhaul line in the boom. It looks like a tight fit at the knot in the end of the line that is attached to the boom end cap. Can this line be installed without removing the end cap? thanks in advance.

BTW, I have read many of your posts in this subforum, haven't been in the others much, and I have learned alot doing so. Sure does help with the learning curve. thanks.

Unfortunately the endcap must come off.When you drill the two rivets out replace the shock cord ,the outhaul line and the traveller bushings on the car.It makes a big difference on how the outhaul car acts in the boom,although I rarely make any adjustments to my outhaul.
Shawn 82 H18 #8211
Div. 3 Nor-cal

Shawn, I had a feeling that would be the answer.

I have already realized I did not order some other things I need. So I'll get the parts and replace it all and be done with it.

It is true that it does not slide as easily as I think it should, and I need everything to work correctly so it's only me that is that's not working correctly with my lack of experience.

Thanks for the help.

A nice addition you might think about is a 5:1 downhaul.You can make one or order it from murrys in a kit .Even though the earlier sails dont have the teflon rope cover you can still de-power the boat with a good tug on the 5:1. I have seen up to 8:1 kits but in my opinion the 5:1 is all you need.Main thing is get out on the boat and have fun getting used to the way it acts in different wind conditions ,time on the tramp will get your confidence and ability to the point where you can get out on the wire and cruise.Nothin quite like hangin out there with the dagger just cutting the water.
shawn

I'm watching all of this and I'm smiling because it reminds me of twenty-five years ago.

All of your advice is sound except for one: You may want to consider a 3/16 main halyard: It normally is 58 feet, but order fifty-nine because you'll want to add two plastic stoppers to the end to hold as you pull up the sail (about a foot apart). Make sure the turning blocks at the top and bottem of the mast are operational; Always raise and lower the sail with the boat directly into the wind and move the boom, mast and rotator to the port side to hook the ring; starboard side to lower it.

Good luck; you'll have a lot of fun; there's always another project to make it work better and easier.

Wyatt

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Sails off Angola, NY, Lake Erie.