To much jib sheet

My old hobie 18 had a kinda short jib sheet which meant there was about 18-24 inch of jib that could not be furled up, but a cleaner tramp.

Well my new (84) hobie 18 came with a very long jib sheet. Enough for half twist around the furled sail, I trimmed it so it was just long enough to fully furl the jib, but the tramp still looks like a freaking bird nest. I liked it better short.

How do you guys do it. Just enough to fully furl or short?

Also where do you guys tie the mast stepping pin?

Also I hate the mast hook flapper but am not giving up till I master it.

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ALLEY CAT 1984 RED LINE HOBIE 18 MAGNUM
Sail # 10505 or 277

Judging how long to make your jib sheet depends a great deal on how you are using your boat.

If you're play sailing, then it really doesn't matter: make it any length you want to as long as it works for you.

If you are racing, or seriously play sailing, you'll need the ability to work the jib from the trapped out position on either side of the boat. Any additional length beyond that is unnecessary IMHO. Yes, at certain times it does seem there is a whole lot of sheet on that tramp.

I can't imagine not having a jib sheet I can work from the trapped out position, but to each his own.

I tie my mast stepping pin to the first grommet for the center lacing long enough to be stored in one of the pockets on the tramp.


Hope that helps,

Mike Bennett
Madera, CA
1981 Hobie 18
1974 Hobie 14t

I use an old Philips head screw driver for a step pin. It is stored in the tramp bag.

You have more patience and persistence than is necessary. The flapper can safely be drilled out. Hobie stopped using the flapper a long time ago.

Another trick that most of the H18 racers use to remove unnecessary length in the jib sheet is to add pig tails.

Adding one foot of line and moving the blocks away from the clew, keeps you from closing the slot between the jib and the main, and removes 4ft of jib sheet.

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1992 Hobie Cat 18 #16943
Hobie Fleet 198, Rapid City, SD

I tie the mast pin off on the little grommet at the top of the pocket and keep it in the pocket.

Cut the flapper off, it serves no purpose and can get in the way.

Pigtails are the only way to shorten the jib sheets, follow the above advice

I agree with the use of pig tails on the jib blocks. I would offer one suggestion though. Rather then tieing the pigtails to a shackle that is then connected to the clew grommet, it's better to just tie the pigtail lines directly to the clew grommet - don't use any shackle.

This eliminates several problems-
1) No shackle to accidentally come undone (this will happen during a race when you are leading).
2) No shackle to get accidentally hung up on the diamond wires (this will happen during a race while tacking in high wind).
3) No shackle to bang itself against your mast and scratch the heck out of the mast when your jib is luffing.

All three of the above happended to me on several occasions when using shackles on the jib. Nove of the above have occured since removing the shackle.

Only slight downside is that you have to re-thread your jib sheet each time you rig. But in reality, it's not that big of a deal because it only takes about one minute and it allows you to ensure that your jib lines are untwisted and running cleanly.

sm

I use a quick shackle for 1 reason, I dont like to undo jib lines just to take the jib off.
This is the type of shackle I use, I have never had it fail, or get caught in rigging in the 8 years that I have had it on my boat.

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1992 Hobie Cat 18 #16943
Hobie Fleet 198, Rapid City, SD

Understood & I'm sure many would agree with you. However, I've used plenty of different shackles on both 18 and 20 jibs and on both boats I've had them get hung up on the diamonds or come completely undone. It doesn't happen often, but when it does, its always at the worst possible time. And if there's any significant breeze, re-connecting the shackle to the flogging jib is a major PITA. For myself, I'd rather spend the extra 60 seconds during rigging knowing that there's one less part on my boat that could potentially cost me a race.

sm

Not sure I understand why you have to re-thread your jib sheet everytime you rig? Why can't you simply un-tie the pig tail from the jib clew while leaving the blocks and jib sheet alone?

I use a single piece of line for my two pigtails. One jib block is tied to each end of the pigtail line using a bowline and then wrapped in rigging tape to ensure the knot stays put. The pigtail line is then connected to the jib grommet using a larks head knot (pass the center of the pigtail line through the grommet and then pass the jib blocks through the loop created and pull tight). Can't undo it when the jib sheet is connected (which is kinda the idea).

You could use one piece of line for each pigtail, but personally, I wouldn't want to be tieing and un-tieing this each time. I'd rather have the pigtails locked on permanently - the point is I don't want my jib blocks coming undone ever.

sm

I use a spring loaded carabiner rather than a true shackle on the jib clew. Less sharp edges to catch on shrouds, and can't shake open.
I have mast up storage, the jib is left furled, covered with a jib snorkel. I can leave the jib sheet attached (even with the snorkel on), but usually prefer to detach the carabiner, and toss the pigtails/sheet under the tramp, to reduce UV damage.
The length of the jib pigtails should be short enough to prevent a pigtail pulley from 'bottoming out' against the jib cleat block (when in the most forward position); Otherwise, you won't be able to release the jib from the jam cleat.