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 Post subject: Hobie 18 SX daggerboards
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2005 6:09 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 6:05 am
Posts: 4
Location: Finland
I recently bought a Hobie 18, second hand. While the boat is a lot of fun, I have big problems in inserting and removing the daggerboards. It seems to require hard work even for a strong grownup man. The slots are simply very, very tight. The manual forbids from moving the plates back and forth. Any idea what can be wrong?

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 7:26 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 4:52 am
Posts: 2
Hiya,

I have the same trouble with mine. I have been told the cause in water getting in, look at the tips of the dagger boards and see if there is any damage as this could be where the water is getting in. I have checked mine and there is, going to fix the gel coat and then sand then down till they fit again!

Cheers

Ian


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 8:44 am 
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Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 9053
Location: Oceanside, California
Moving the plates back and forth? Not sure what thatvrefers to here...

We are talking a Hobie 18?

The Hobie 18 dagger booards should drop into the wells easily without the bunjee tied and pulled forward. All that stops it from drobbing through the well is the rope handle. When the bunjee is in place, pull the board aft just a little and then lower / raise and release. The bunjee should pull the board head forward and hold in that position.

Trouble? Boards are swollen? Bunjee is too tight? You pull too far aft and the board wedges in the aft of the well? Someone added carpet in the well? It is also possible for the well to be distorted. Maybe collapsed a little. Look for wear points on the boards.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 12:40 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 6:05 am
Posts: 4
Location: Finland
Thanks for the advice. The situation got a bit easier by swapping the daggerboards, although they should (?) be identical. Still, the last two inches is very tough. It might be that the boards get wedged being too far aft, hard to tell. How tight should the bunjee be?

I will try to sand and wax the boards a bit, and check that there is no leakage into them.

Yes there is carpet in the wells, small pieces of cloth in both ends. Looks convincing, should I tear it away?

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 Post subject: H-18 boards
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2005 2:06 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 7:14 pm
Posts: 455
Location: West MI
Layline has a mylar scrim tape that is very slippery. this can be used in place of carpet and is a great tool to shim the rudder castings as well.


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 Post subject: Re: H-18 boards
PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2005 3:26 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 6:05 am
Posts: 4
Location: Finland
[quote="DVL"]Layline has a mylar scrim tape that is very slippery. this can be used in place of carpet and is a great tool to shim the rudder castings as well.[/quote]

So you would put that tape into the daggerboard wells, in place of the cloth? My boat has cloth where you insert the daggerboards, but none in the bottom.

The boards are still very stiff. There are no visible signs of wear in the boards though.

Aleksi

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