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Jib block attachment
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Author:  Jcraig [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 11:25 am ]
Post subject:  Jib block attachment

I have seen on many 18's and 20's an extra line attached between the jib clew and the jib sheet block. The length is never the same but seems to be in the range of 1 to 2 feet and no one has been able to tell me what it is for. I am new to racing my 18 and am wondering if this is worthwhile to setup. I suspect it has something to do with the jib lines tangling but I have not yet experienced any problems.

Any advice is appreciated.

Jason

Author:  John Lunn [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 3:07 pm ]
Post subject:  H18 Jib lines

Maybe you've see this. If not, get some bungee cord, (doesn't have to be brand new,) and tie one end off near the outside of the the dolphin striker rod, that is, towards the inside lip of a hull. Position is not critical. Keep it simple.

Then run the bungee up through where the lower diamond wire attaches to the mast, around the mast, back through the other diamond attachment, and back to the other side of the dolphin striker rod.
The jib sheets now rest on top of the bungees, so that when you tack, the sheet cannot get caught underneath the mast, or in the mast bearing.

Then take the thinnest bungee you can find (1/8th), tie it to the loop below the cleat on one of the jib blocks, run the bungee through the grommet hole on the tramp, underneath the tramp to the other grommet hole, and back up to the other jib block. This helps keep the jib blocks from flopping around, and lowers the risk of tangling up the jib sheets.

You're not talking about the jib furler are you?

Good winds

Author:  Jcraig [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 3:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Helpful info

You actualy described two other modifications i have been contemplating. The original question is on the two small blocks that would typicaly attach directly to the jib clew groment with a single shackel. What i have seen is two lines (one for each small block) attached to the jib clew with the ends tied onto the corrisponding block. Thanks for the description on the other two modifications i am going to start work on them tonight. In reply to the description for the jib block flop, do you run the bungee toword the stern then through a gromet hole or straight across the tramp? If you pass it straight across the tramp do you set the travelers at a 50% setting when placing the bungee or fore or aft?

Thanks,
Jason

Live slow & sail fast!

Author:  John Lunn [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 3:39 pm ]
Post subject:  H18 modifications

The bungee for the jib blocks will pass through what looks like drain holes in the centre-rear section of the tramp. You can adjust the jib traveller setting all you want, as bungees stretch. I can email you a digital picture after next weekend - if so, contact me at [email protected]

The jib clew to clew blocks line that you're talking about, would that be a form of barber hauler? So that the jib flies further out?

Cheers

Author:  mmiller [ Mon Aug 29, 2005 4:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Pig Tail

They are "Pig Tails".

That is a length of line between the jib clew and the clew block. This is used to reduce the necessary jib sheet length. If you need 32 feet of sheet without pigtails, you would only need 24 feet using two 2 foot pigtails. Pigtails take the place of sheet length and running 2:1 on the jib, that is twice the length of the pigtail.

The Hobie 20 uses a short pigtail wire on the boom block set up. Since the purchase can be 8:1, you can reduce needed sheet length by 8 times the length of the pigtail used.

Maximum pigtail length will be determined by the available distance between sheeting blocks.

Some class rules may prohibit use of pigtails.

Author:  Jcraig [ Tue Aug 30, 2005 6:37 am ]
Post subject:  pig tails

Thanks for the info Matt, very helpfull. It sounds like it is not a performance issue, more of a convienance fix.

Thanks,

Jason

Author:  be [ Tue Sep 27, 2005 2:05 am ]
Post subject: 

Sorry,

Could I have a photo showing this config?

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