H18 Daggerboard well repair

If it ever stops raining, I want to do a minor repair to the 'corners' of the daggerboard wells.
You know, where the daggerboards have chipped the gelcoat in the usual places.

Then I was thinking - the Tiger guys glue a small piece of webbing, about 3/4" long, right in the corners, to act as a board stabilizer and to prevent chipping.

Anyone done that on their H18? Could I/should I do the same? Any comments?

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

No, but I successfully repaired a splitting seam on the lower flange earlier this spring. Solution: I mixed up a batch of epoxy and applied it to a firm (slightly bend-able) piece of plastic in a long bead shape. I used the plastic to then smear the bead of epoxy onto the lip of the flange. Once applied, I used Jeremy's suggestion to vacuum it into the crack by zapping the drain plug hole with my shop vac. Came out perfect. I would think a more flexible applicator (cut up milk jug?) would work well in the corner areas you speak of.

Brian

P.S. Took her out for the second time yesterday evening and broke one of my EPOs while returning to the beach. Depressing, but it sure was good while it lasted!

The rubber gasket material that Hobie offers seems to work OK. Also, indoor/outdoor carpeting can be used. The main areas that need protection are the top front of the well and the bottom back of the well. These are the two contact points of the dagger board.

I put a small piece of the Hobie gasket at the top front of the well and it makes a big difference in holding the board up. You need something there to increase the friction between the board and the well otherwise the boards will slide down even with a lot of bungee tension.

The H-18 and the Tiger don't use the same method of holding the boards up. Nylon webbing will be more slippery, so you may have issues keeping the board up.

sm