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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:12 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
Hi! I have purchased a new jib H18 (1980 I think) but it is longer than the original one and the top passes the sheave, so I made a new one piece forestay with no "Forestay upper section" and with the swivel and sheave at the top.Will this work ok? When I roll up the jib with the furler?
Also the jib has two small battens I supose I need to cut them out and not use them to be able to roll the jib properly no?
To hold the jib up is it ok just to use a line tied to the top passed trhu the sheave and down to the jib cleat at the botom?
Thanks

Anyone else here getting their H18 in condition to sail it soon? I´m working on mine we could upload some pics and advice of things to do?

Today I checked hull for any leaks... I pumped air into the hulls and checked them with sopy water!!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 9:35 pm
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Location: Northern Texas
I don't think you purchased a H18 jib. Sounds like a prindle jib to me. My H18 does not have battens and my buddy's H18SX doesn't have battens either.

The only problem I see with your setup is the configuration of the slot between the jib and main. Seems as if your slot will be a little pinched off at the top.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 5:44 am 
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Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
It had writen in pencil on it:
1K8E07 - Large Jib

It is blue and fluorescent green, has a transparent window and two small battens.

It also has the hobie sticker...made by neil pride etc etc etc


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 7:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:45 am
Posts: 759
Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Mike is right, not an 18 jib, maybe 21? I'd be looking for a "real" 18 jib.

Regardless, soaping the hulls for leaks is good, checking all your standing rigging for frays. I'd take a few days and look back through this Forum at the 18 posts, the FAQ's and help with repairs (I certainly answered a lot of my questions this way).

What year is your boat? What part of the country are you in?

Splash, good to have you aboard. :D

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297


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 Post subject: H18 or maybe SX?
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:46 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
H18 or maybe SX...or Formula?

In any case it was not made by Hobie Cat USA for a Hobie 18. Europe uses sails made by Neil Pryde. The longer length and the battens sound like SX or what they called Formula 18.

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Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject: H18 fixer-upper status
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 8:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Finger Lakes, Western NY
Hey Splash,

I just got a 1980 Hobie 18 this past fall too - I've been fixing it up for the past few months, and should have it ready come spring. I'm by no means an expert, but here's a list of some of the things I've done, some of the things I've read that I should do, and some of the things I have no intention of doing that you might want to do :)

Soft spots
I found on the deck in front of the port cross bar, and 2 smaller ones on the outside of the port hull, a few feet further forward. I used Git Rot on them (works great - no problems). One note though - DO NOT forget to mix in the hardener. I got distracted while I was mixing one batch, and forgot to add it. What a mess that was to clean up...

Anchor plates
On our '80 boats, the 2 crossbars and shroud anchors are held to the deck lip with steel "channels", about 3 inches long. They've since changed these to anchor plates that actually use 4 bolts to anchor to the sides of the hulls. There were some problems with the mid-80's boats (you can read all about it in this forum), but for our older, heavier boats, we really only need to upgrade the shroud anchors from the channels to the anchor plates. It's a pretty simple job. Just make sure you use plenty of silicone to keep water out of the holes you drill.

Access Ports
The original access ports on our boats are the "snap-in" type with the rope handle. People had problems with water entering the hulls through the rope-handle holes, so it's not a bad idea to upgrade these ports to the screw-in type. This is a pretty simple fix too. Beware though - when I bought my kit, I was under the impression that it contained plastic mounting hardware. Instead, it came with aluminum rivets. I actually think the rivets worked quite well, but you may prefer something else. Also, apparently the kit I purchased had been sitting on my Hobie dealer's shelf for quote some time, because half the tube of silicone had hardened inside the tube. Fortunately I had another tube lying around from some previous repairs. Don't skimp on the silicone for the access ports either - I used what I thought was WAY too much, and now I actually wish I'd used a tiny bit more.

Daggerboard wells
There's not really a "problem" with the wells, but it's a common place for small leaks to develop, and the boards can wear away at the gelcoat, so you might want to take a careful look at them. When I bought my boat, it had a few gallons of water in each hull, and I suspect this is the entry point. I replaced and re-sealed the drain plug housings and got rid of the old access ports, but I think I may have a small leak in the bottom seal of the wells too. I'll probably seal them with silicone, then do the soapy water test you just did.

Mast-step
Our '80 boats have a mast-step that is attached with 2 rivets. It's recommended to upgrade to the newer 4-rivet mast-step. I haven't done this one yet, and I'm actuall not sure why it's recommended. Obviously 4 rivets is stronger than 2, but does anyone know the true reason for this upgrade?

Standing Rigging
It's not a bad idea to replace the standing rigging (shrouds, stays - anything that holds up the mast) anytime you buy a used boat. You just don't know how the previous owner used and maintained the boat. My wonderful wife got me a full set of new standing rigging for Christmas. Saltydogmarine has a great deal if you buy the whole set (the trap wires are basically free, if you do the math).

Rudders
Our '80 rudders are the "old" (pre-1986) style rudders that have a metal cam instead of the standard hobie plastic cams used on the 14, 16, and the other boats. In '86, they changed the H18 rudders to use plastic cams as well. I've read that the metal cams can be a pain to use. I'm going to stick with the old style rudders for now and see just how much of a pain they are before I spend the money to upgrade them.

Mast Dongle
I don't know about your boat, but at the top of my mast where the halyard ring rests, there's a floppy triangle that sits over the hook. This was designed to make it easier to un-hook the halyard ring, but I've been told it makes it a royal pain to hook up when you raise the main. I haven't done it yet, but I plan on removing it.

I also have some cosmetic work to do still - the boat needs a good polishing and a few coats of wax, and I still have to fill in the holes from my delam fixes, as well as a few small nicks and scratches. And because I got excited about my new boat, I replaced all the sheets and other running rigging as well.

I do have some pictures, but I don't have them posted anywhere yet. I'll let everyone know if I ever get the online somewhere.

I know there are a few other people fixing up H18's too - anyone else want to status their winter projects?

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-Bill

Conesus Lake, NY
1976 Hobie 14


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:55 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:12 pm
Posts: 132
Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
I was looking for the receipt of the guys i bought it of but cant find it!
I ordered a Hobie 18 Jib if i could find the receipt and it is not a hobbie 18 jib I could complain and return it it cost nearly 700$!!!!!!!!

Will try and post pics as soon as possible and you guys can confirm what Jib it is.

I´m also working on a mast step repair will upload pics aswell and see what you thing I should do!

Thanks for the help and welcome!

By the way im from Ibiza a small island in the med in Spain!


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 Post subject: Tiger Maybe
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 5:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2005 8:47 am
Posts: 33
Sounds like it may be a Tiger jib. I know that they use battens.

Collin

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:05 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Never seen a Hobie 18 jib with battens. My tiger Jib is *very* small compared to the H18 Jib. It has 3 short battens that are approx 1' long running diagonally up the leech of the Jib.

Michael


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 Post subject: Mast Step & Mast Dongle
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 8:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 8:21 am
Posts: 3
Location: Louisville, Ky
I don't know for sure but I think that the mast step was increased from 2 to 4 rivets because of the rivets coming loose. On my 18, three of us were flying a hull in the Atlantic off Charleston, SC when the rivets broke loose. I don't mind saying it was a little scary sailing in 4 ft waves and seeing the dolphin striker sliding up and down with the boat movement. I ended up replacing the whole crossmember just to be sure.

I also removed the mast dongle and it makes locking the main halyard ring a WHOLE lot easier. Locks first time, every time now.

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