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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:14 pm 
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I plan on completely overhauling my 18. I would like to fix all the flex cracks, add anchor plates, reinforce hull with fiberglass where crossbars attach and then respray entire hull with fresh gelcoat. But first I have a few questions....

1. Can I put anchor plates on both sides of rear crossbar? Do most people add a 6" hatch behind the rear cross bar to get access to the bolts? ithought maybe I could make up stainless plates for the inside and use fishing line to get them in place and then rivet the anchor plates in.

2. Are these just stress cracks in the transom or should I get to the inside to look for fiberglass damage? After grind ing out stress cracks should I fill with formula 27 or a gelcoat putty?
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3. How would you repair cracks in bottom of rail? I have cracks where the trampoline track is riveted on and I'm afraid my repair might crack when I rivet the track back on.
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4. Do these hulls require a fiberglass patch below the crossbar attachments (I think the boat is a 1980)? Or will anchor plates at all 8 crossbar points be strong enough? I would really like the boat bulletproof but the fiberglass patch seems like a difficult job.
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5. When I bought the boat it was full of water... the hulls are hard to the touch but is there anything I should do to the inside?
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Thanks!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:22 pm 
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Being a pre-1984 (1980 model)... the extra patch inside at the crossbar is not required. This only became needed on 1984 production due to a reduction of other glass in the boat.

No anchor plates at crossbars fore or aft are required pre-1984.

The cracks under the rail are typical due to flex from the trampoline loads I believe. Likely just gel coat which is more brittle than the glass. Never seem a failure here.

If you don't have blisters from the water in the hulls... no problem.

I'd consider beefing up the transom from the inside. Looks like it suffered some hard beach landings with stiff rudders down.

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Matt Miller
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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 1:19 pm 
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To repair the transom I assume I would have to add hatches, 6" ok or should they be smaller? Does the location matter?

What is your opinion on formula 27? It is the easiest was to repair the crack but will it be durable in places like the ceneterboard well corners and bottom of boat where it contacts beach? Is the gelcoat thickened with silica a better option?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
6" ports are too big for behind the rear crossbar. 5" would probabaly be the best since 4" ports are real hard to work in unless you've got small hands. You can put the port anywhere in the deck, there are no bulkheads. You will want to use a porthole for curved decks. Also keep in mind that there is a large foam flotation block back there that will make work more difficult, so if you're doing work on the transom, you'll want the porthole pretty close to the back. The foam block runs almost the entire length between the centerboard well and the transom if I recall.

You can't use putty to repair structural cracks. You need to use resin reinforced with fiberglass.

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:45 pm 
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I was planning on using the "putty" to fix the the minor stress cracks in variuos locations throughout my hulls. Is there and y difference between using formula 27 vs gelcoat thickend with fumed silica? Formula 27 is cheap and easy to use so I'm leaning towards that.

As for the transom repair. I think the best way is to add fiberglass cloth across the inside of the transom and wrap it around to the sides of the hull. But what if I were to use a long strand fiberglass filler along the transom/hull seam and across the transom? Will the filler significantly stiffen the transom? I'm afriad that if I go through the work of getting access to the transom I dont want to half-ass the repair.


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