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 Post subject: Jib Halyard Options
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 6:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 5:14 am
Posts: 81
I was thinking about the stock halyard on my 18sx, and was wondering if anyone has used anyone has used spectra/dyneema instead of the stock cable/pully system. Why couldn't you just take some line, tie to the jib shackle, run through the block at the upper forestay, and tie off to the sister clip at the bottom? The line could then just be run through the tack shackle and to the jam cleat to tension the jib. It seems to me there is a lot of unnecessary hardware in the stock setup.
Am I missing something here?


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Halyard Options
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:17 am 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 7:49 am
Posts: 1073
Location: North Carolina
Dyneema is too costly to use for a simple halyard. The halyard is for hoisting the sail, a seperate line is used to tension. Sister clips are for shortening the halyard once the sail is raised.
What equipment would you be removing?
Whats the advantage?


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Halyard Options
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:36 am 
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I need a replacement halyard. I know what all the parts are for, but that's my point. Why so many parts? (wire, thimble, block, tensioning line). Seems like too much stuff to simly raise and tighten the sail. Can't I just one continuous line for the whole thing (still using sister clips to take care of the extra line)?


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Halyard Options
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:13 pm
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I use a spectra halyard on my 18 and then have a harken micro block on the end. I tie a piece of 1/8" robline to the adjuster, then run the line thru the block on the end of the halyard and tie it off to the stainless steel adjuster that the forestay is pined to. Works well, the plastic cleat on the hobie jibs are worthless for cleating the halyard off on. Ryan


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Halyard Options
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2011 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2011 11:35 am
Posts: 8
I replaced my halyard with 2.8mm spiderline. My wire halyard had a fraying wire and wire halyards aren't exactly state of the art anymore.The 2.8mm has a splicable core, but it is small stuff. The splices actually weren't that bad. Spectra, dynema and those aramids are known for not holding in cleats. The spiderline in a double braid with a polyester cover, it holds in the jam cleat fine. I spliced a halyard to replace the wire and used another length to make the tensioner. The spool of 75' of line cost me somewhere between 15 an 17 dollars, didn't seem price prohibative. I also looked up the breaking or working strength of the 7x7 1/8 inch wire for the stock halyard and it's typically around 450 lbs. The 2.8mm double braid line is rated at 1200lbs.

I'm sure it's not class legal.

Geoff


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Halyard Options
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 6:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 7:14 pm
Posts: 455
Location: West MI
I need to replace my jib wire as well. I am going to a line. If it becomes a problem when I do a recreational race.....

The Hobie rules don't say anything in the H-18 area. The general rules are inconclusive.... but the Hobie 16 has the Ausse jib haylard system.

Perhaps the Matt Miller or Matt Bounds can weigh in on the class legal status of a all line jib halyard on a Hobie 18.

_________________
DVL 1989 H-18 Worlds Boat, Magnum Wings & Spinnaker

dale.vanlopik"at"att"dot"net


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Halyard Options
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 5:14 am
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DrivenByTheWind wrote:
I replaced my halyard with 2.8mm spiderline. My wire halyard had a fraying wire and wire halyards aren't exactly state of the art anymore.The 2.8mm has a splicable core, but it is small stuff. The splices actually weren't that bad. Spectra, dynema and those aramids are known for not holding in cleats. The spiderline in a double braid with a polyester cover, it holds in the jam cleat fine. I spliced a halyard to replace the wire and used another length to make the tensioner. The spool of 75' of line cost me somewhere between 15 an 17 dollars, didn't seem price prohibative. I also looked up the breaking or working strength of the 7x7 1/8 inch wire for the stock halyard and it's typically around 450 lbs. The 2.8mm double braid line is rated at 1200lbs.

I'm sure it's not class legal.

Geoff


Thanks, that was exactly what I was looking for. I was looking at the spyderline too, glad it works. So why do you need the tensioner at all? I always tighten just enough to take the wrinkles out. Do you really need the extra 2:1 purchase you get from the tensioner?


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Halyard Options
PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 3:02 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2011 11:35 am
Posts: 8
I made the tensioner because that's the way the boat was set up. If I was missing something by not using it, now I'm not. One advantage might be that the cleat doesn't need to hold the same tension so it is less likely to slip. Also, because I made the halyard as close to a replica of the original wire as possible the loop doesn't reach the cleat so the tensioner gives me that extra range. I set it up with a snap shackle at the top of the tensioner so it is more simple to just snap on to the halyard and set the tension.

My understanding regarding jib halyard tension is that sailing with moderate tension is easier to to find the groove. More tension can be faster but harder to find the groove. I really have not gotten good enough with the boat yet to think about tuning, but someone who's racing would probably find more benefit from the tensioner.

Geoff


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