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h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=38097 |
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Author: | srm [ Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:40 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
Use four hole gudgeons for both the top and bottom. You should not use two hole gudgeons anywhere on an 18. Move the bottom gudgeon up so that the existing top mounting holes become the new bottom mounting holes. Then drill and tap new top holes. There is an aluminum backing plate laminated into the transom, so you are not just tappig into fiberglass. There is also an updated gudgeon that you should install which is stronger than the original H18 gudgeons (I'm not talking about the new cast aluminum one piece gudgeons, but those would also be an option). Seal up all the holes with silicone caulk. sm |
Author: | mmiller [ Mon Aug 29, 2011 1:47 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
Quote: 2) The bottom hole doesn't line up, You need to file off some of the casting to fit... that is a normal part of the conversion. File to top of the lower part of the casting. |
Author: | srm [ Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
If the rudder pins are seized to the gudgeons, I'd assume that's because you have aluminum pins. You're probably better off just replacing the pins with stainless steel pins anyway. The aluminum pins have a nasty habit of breaking, stainless doesn't break. In any case, if you can't get the pins out, you may just have to replace them. Rudder pins are relatively inexpensive. sm |
Author: | [email protected] [ Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:56 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
Me thinks it is a case / requirement for the angle grinder ... LOL |
Author: | aaron-hobie [ Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:26 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
Ok. The local machine shop got the gudgeons free, and I got the gudgeons lined up. Do you have to tap the screws, or can you use self tapping ones? |
Author: | divimon2000 [ Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:50 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
If it was me, I'd be curious how the backing plate was; seen some completely corroded. Then while in there (via porthole), use a backing locknut. But thats more work (of course). I just hate rudder issues. |
Author: | aaron-hobie [ Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:02 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
divimon2000 wrote: If it was me, I'd be curious how the backing plate was; seen some completely corroded. Then while in there (via porthole), use a backing locknut. But thats more work (of course). I just hate rudder issues. Yeah, that was my original thought too. It think that's really the best way to go, except of course I will have to cut in two inspection ports. |
Author: | mmiller [ Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:10 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
Quote: Do you have to tap the screws, or can you use self tapping ones? You must tap the hole for the threads. 12-24 is the current thread if using new screws. |
Author: | divimon2000 [ Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:17 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: h18 rudder conversion h-18 h18 |
I put a bottle port drink holder in one of mine. My dad would tell me to tap AND locknut. http://www.apsltd.com/c-4513-inspectionports.aspx |
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