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 Post subject: H18 Boom Repairs
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:36 pm
Posts: 36
I'm new to sailing. I just started this summer on rented Hobie Waves and bought an H18 to get out on bigger lakes. I think I have 2 repairs requiring me to remove at least one of the boom end caps. First my gooseneck slides in & out about 2 inches. From reading other posts it looks like I have to repair either a clip or the whole end cap. Also my outhaul cleat is slipping. From what I can tell I'm going to need to pull of an end cap to get it out. I'll probably replace the line at the same time while I have it out. To remove the end cap I just drill out the rivets. This is where my questions come as I don't have any experience with rivets. What size drill do I need for these? What size / type of rivets are they? Are they special or can I use ones available at Home Depot?

-Thanks
Rowdy


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 Post subject: Re: H18 Boom Repairs
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:08 am 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 1:12 pm
Posts: 1007
You just drill off the head of the rivet (use a 3/16" drill or slightly larger just be careful not to 'oversize' the hole as you need to install a new rivet after making the repairs and the hole needs to remain the correct size of the new rivet won't pull tight>

The rivets used are 3/16" stainless Steel - you can pick them up from any Hobie Dealer - call toll free 1800hobie49
Not sure if they sell the same type at Lowes or Home depot - maybe someone else can answer that..I just know that you can get these fairly easily from any Hobie Shop.


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 Post subject: Re: H18 Boom Repairs
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:36 pm
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Thanks for the response.


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 Post subject: Re: H18 Boom Repairs
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 2568
Location: Jersey Shore
It's not uncommon for the gooseneck pin to slide in and out a few inches. As long as it doesn't come completely out, it's probably ok. The mainsheet tension will keep the boom pressed forward and prevent it from sliding back while sailing. However, if the sliding pin annoys you, then you will have to pull off the end cap, remove the clip on the end of the pin, slide a piece of rubber tubing over the pin and then re-install the clip.

You should not need to remove the end caps to replace the outhaul cleat. All you need to do is remove the screws in the cleat and install a new cleat. The only exception to this would be if the screws are seized in the mounting bracket then you might have to replace the bracket, screws, and cleat. Be sure to replace the cleat with an aluminum one, not plastic. The plastic cleats slip, the aluminum ones don't.

In order to replace the outhaul line, you'll need to pull off the rear end cap. In that case, you should replace the return bungee at the same time.

The best method to remove pop rivets is to drill off the head only. I usually use about a 1/2" drill to do this (same diameter as the head of the rivet). Then use a punch and hammer to drive the mandrel into the boom. This method assures that you won't oversize the hole in the boom.

You should use stainless steel rivets at the gooseneck end of the boom. You can use aluminum rivets at the back end of the boom. They are 3/16" diameter. Home Depot sells aluminum rivets, but not stainless. The best place I've found to get a lot of stainless rivets (more than 20) is McMaster Carr online. If you only need a couple, you can go to your Hobie Dealer, Murrays, or West Marine.

Keep in mind that it takes a LOT of hand strength to pull stainless rivets using a basic pop rivet gun from Home Depot. Also, be sure to wear safety glasses when pulling SS rivets.

sm


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 Post subject: Re: H18 Boom Repairs
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:36 pm
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Thanks everyone! I wound up pulling the rear end cap off to replace the outhaul line & shock cord. I got new rivets along with an aluminum cleat from my Hobie dealer. Got a heavy duty rivet gun from Northern tool. Everything went great.

-Thanks,
Rowdy


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