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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:09 pm 
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I believe the problem with the system is the direction of the force applied on the rudder pin (red circle), even with the cam springs dialed back it is still hard to disengage the pin. By grinding back the casting to the yellow line it greatly helps the pin slide up and out. I did some testing in my garage and the rudder still hold down securly but would kick up when hit. I can't wait to try this in the water... anyone ever do anything similar?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 5:58 am 
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Have you lubricated this parts? I have HC18 1982 and it is fairly easy to kick up rudders...


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 5:14 am 
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I'm gonna check this out, seems like its correct from my dealings this summer. I tweaked everything and still don't pop up. thanks for posting.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 7:50 am 
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divimon2000 wrote:
I'm gonna check this out, seems like its correct from my dealings this summer. I tweaked everything and still don't pop up. thanks for posting.



I really think this fix will work well. Just be careful how far you grind back the casting. The slight change in casting angle made a big difference in pressure required to unlock rudder.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 6:29 am 
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I did file mine back. My goal was to take ANY SLIGHT indentation out of the casting that would prevent the pin from traveling. I would do that first before purposely adjustng the angle. I am sure removing the indentation and then making sure the flat surface continues to the tip moved the angle back. I just would not suggest taking any more metal off than needed so my first goal would be a flat traveling surface for the pin. Any angle adjustment would be ancillary.

Since I did this and lubricated it, it has worked like a charm. There is also very little play in my rudder holes where the casting goes through. If these are too loose I would think that affects the angle of force as well.

Good Luck.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:36 pm 
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Quote:
take ANY SLIGHT indentation out of the casting that would prevent the pin from traveling.


This is the key more than changing the angle. When worn, the roll pin creates a ding that prevents the roll pin from rolling. File the ding flat and you are good to go.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:24 pm 
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Location: Norman, Oklahoma
Does Hobie still make replacement cams for the old style castings ?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 4:59 pm 
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Huh Ray wrote:
Does Hobie still make replacement cams for the old style castings ?


No, unfortunately not; they are a discontinued part on a discontinued boat. They were discontinued in 1989 for the newer design with plastic cams. I don't believe they ever sold the cams separately anyways, instead selling the complete assembled lower casting. They didn't typically wear out or break; the more common problem with the old style castings was that they were a little thin, and some of them (the castings themselves) broke when the rudders failed to kick up, or even from excessive rudder loading from a crashing wave or the like.

If you have a problem with yours, your best bet is to find a used lower casting on ebay (they're around, and typically go for ~$65 each, but not terribly common because of the aforementioned breakage issue). The only other options would be to have somebody make the part for you, using the other one as a template, or buying the newer style lower rudder casting and mating upper casting ($500 upgrade new). Note that if you change the castings, you'll also need to replace the rudder gudgeons with the newer style to fit the newer casting, including drilling new holes in the transom and filling in the old ones.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 3:39 am 
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Huh Ray wrote:
Does Hobie still make replacement cams for the old style castings ?


I have a couple of the old-style lower rudder castings (which includes the cam) I'm not using. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

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