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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 1:32 pm 
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I have had so much positive response to this bar that I ended up making several...the hot set-up for bar material so far seems to be what is called 1 and 1/4" , 6061-T6 aluminum pipe because it is cheap, lightweight and won't snap in half leaving you helpless like wood or fiberglass unit could easily do in heavy waves. A seven foot section at my local metal supermarket is $31 and it weighs in at less than 5 pounds.. It's a little confusing since pipe only slightly resembles it's nominal size . The actual dimensions of the pipe are 1.66 O.D. x 0.14 wall thickness x 1.38 I.D. Sealed on the ends it will float, and the wood used in my pads and the thick bright yellow woven polypropylene line (cheap at Walmart) all add to the bouyancy and make it easy to spot in the water if you manage to drop it. The fully constructed bar with the wooden carpeted ends and the line and stainless trigger snaps should weigh in right around 9 pounds, and that is nothing when you are sailing solo.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:46 pm 
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Chet3 wrote:
How can I get my H18 up from a turtle by myself?

I have a plan for a righting pole for the capsize but I capsized my H18 last month for the first time in 3 yrs and it went straight to turtle. I think the wing way up in the air was catching the wind and drove the mast under. I did not seem to have any water in the mast and it came up easy and quickly with two of us once I got the mast to the surface but it was a (censored) getting it up from turtle. Basically we just stood on the underside of the wing and held onto the daggerboard with one hand and leaned out as far as possible and it eventually came up. My under tramp righting lines were too short to be of help in the turtle position. Since it was working but slowly I did not get creative with some line around the daggerboard.

I was wondering if the righting pole could have a rope tied to the end to grab and lean back for bringing it up from turtle? Has anyone tried this?


Hi Chet, my suggestion would be to do a YouTube search for Gary Friesen's "solo right" and use that video as a baseline for what you're looking to achieve. Friesen is credited with inventing this version of the righting pole and he even sold it commercially for a time. Myself and many others on this forum have successfully built working versions by copying his design (Thanks Gary!!!!!!). Getting out of turtle simply involves technique and having enough line to work the force from your sterns. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:43 pm 
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The inch and a quarter schedule 40, 6061 T-6 aluminum pipe is also available online from onlinemetals.com, if you can't find it locally. They will sell you the pipe for@ $25.45 for 7 feet but then want $17 for shipping, (which I suppose will vary depending on how far you are from their nearest shipping point)..that would bring your total to $42.45 but save you the time and gas money involved in chasing it down. The other thing to know is that they will ship 5 pieces to me for $22 so that would bring the price of shipping down to less than $5 per section....so if you have several buddies who are interested in making a bar, that would be the hot set-up. There is also 2024 aircraft grade aluminum tube available, but that stuff is overkill and three times the price.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:41 pm 
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fastfriend wrote:
The inch and a quarter schedule 40, 6061 T-6 aluminum pipe is also available online from onlinemetals.com, if you can't find it locally. They will sell you the pipe for@ $25.45 for 7 feet but then want $17 for shipping, (which I suppose will vary depending on how far you are from their nearest shipping point)..that would bring your total to $42.45 but save you the time and gas money involved in chasing it down. The other thing to know is that they will ship 5 pieces to me for $22 so that would bring the price of shipping down to less than $5 per section....so if you have several buddies who are interested in making a bar, that would be the hot set-up. There is also 2024 aircraft grade aluminum tube available, but that stuff is overkill and three times the price.


I'm so glad I found this thread ... I need one in a bad way ... I'm 5'6", 145 lbs and this would save my life ... I can sail solo knowing that I have a way to right my H16.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:41 am 
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Location: Hanover, PA
Got mine put together, minus ropes and paint for the bar, sealing off the tube to float was a bear cause of built up air pressure... Capri sun straw did the trick to release some pressure for second plug. Hope never have to use it, but good insurance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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'95 H16 sail #101148
'89 H18 SX/ sail #1053 w/ Yellow hulls


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 9:40 am 
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Can you post a picture ... I still haven't make one yet.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:35 am 
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In2Bass wrote:
Can you post a picture ... I still haven't make one yet.

Thanks


Here's some pictures of my righting pole, I copied Gary Friesen's Solo-Right design (a video of which can be found on YouTube):

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=83390


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 4:56 am 
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Location: Lawtons, NY
Thanks FastFriend. Copied your system and solo righted my 18 out on Lake Erie yesterday.

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Rick Wattengel
H18 "Puka-Luka"
Fleet 119-Lake Erie's Finest Image


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:15 pm 
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Thank you so much for the idea. I went to a local scrap metal yard in San Jose and found some square aluminum tube. At $18 for 8 feet, I couldn't go wrong. I'm going to put together a righting pole similar to fastfriend's design this weekend. I've done some quick calculations. Sealing the aluminum it will be almost buoyant, but not quite. Looks like having wood or something buoyant on the ends will be necessary to end up with a device that floats.

This should be a fun project.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 2:01 pm 
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Your calculations are correct...you need wooden ends on the bar to make it float WELL,, and by using them to form small platforms on each end and then carpeting them, they make a nice protective interface to keep the stowed bar from marring the decks on your boat.. they then give a soft interface between the boat and the bar on the inboard end and a soft inteface between your body and the bar on the outboard end during the righting process. Also remember to use fat line that floats (easy on your hands and the boat) ..and if it's bright yellow like the great el cheapo woven stuff I found at Wal mart you can also find the whole rig easily, even in rough water, and then even the line is adding bouyancy.
Please don't ever start building a bar that could possibly break (wood or weak fiberglass). Fiberglass won't float any better than the aluminum, or could sink which could happen if you start with a heavy metal bar. Your life could depend on it if you are out there solo..
Square aluminum bar makes it a little easier to attach the wooden platforms but almost all of the aluminum bar has very square corners that can really scrape your legs and body up if you slip off it in the waves...the round tube sprayed with truck bedliner is a better way to go...but at $18 I understand why you are happy to find what you have.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 11:25 am 
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Hi Ramstadt - post some pictures :) I'm going to try build mine in a couple of weekends.

I just got my 18 and it looks like it has a Hawaiian Righting system underneath (although it's rather knotted up and still needs to be debugged). My thought is that I can just build the righting pole and walk out on it while hanging on to the righting lines that are already rigged to the front and rear crossbars. Two concerns: (1) will the righting pole stay perpendicular to the boat if it's not tied in and (2) having it float away (thick yellow line as a tether solves the 2nd concern).

Am I missing something or will this work too?

Thanks - Mike


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