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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:19 pm 
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Well this past summer i picked up a hobie 18 magnum. My friends and I had a blast. Flew a hull one day when we had some really good winds. Then my friend tried to do the same and rode it straight on over. All and all it was really a great time. A few small things have broke (tramp tore, rudder cam broke, spacers for rudders disintegrated). Ordered rudder cams and spacers. Started thinking work has been good and i really enjoyed the hobie so far. So im thinking about refreshing/refitting. Gonna give myself a 2k budget and see how far that gets me. I can always choose to fudge later but for now that is the budget. I do not have any plans on racing.

Things i know i need for sure new tramp, and it would be smart to replace the standing rigging because the previous owner could not give me a solid date on when it was last redone. So since i am still pretty new, i figured i would post up and see if i could get some recommendations of things to look into.

Thanks for the help! And sorry im so green.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:30 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
A new tramp, standing rigiging, and shroud anchor bolts are a good start. If you go OEM, this will cost about $1k.

Nice upgrades are Harken main and jib sheet systems. Upgraded downhaul system. Hotstick. New running rigging. Micro blocks on the return lines for the trap system. Telocat wind vane. New sails are always nice, but probably not worth the expense if you're not racing and the present set is holding up. Scratch that, get a new set of sails and start racing... we need more boats out there :D .

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:41 pm 
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srm wrote:
A new tramp, standing rigiging, and shroud anchor bolts are a good start. If you go OEM, this will cost about $1k.

Nice upgrades are Harken main and jib sheet systems. Upgraded downhaul system. Hotstick. New running rigging. Micro blocks on the return lines for the trap system. Telocat wind vane. New sails are always nice, but probably not worth the expense if you're not racing and the present set is holding up. Scratch that, get a new set of sails and start racing... we need more boats out there :D .

sm


Thanks for the quick response! Now to show how green i am. Did old Hobie 18 magnums have a downhaul system? (i dont really see one on mine. Like i said im such a boob) Luckily i do have a telocat wind vane so i can mark that off the list. Racing would be fun i am sure but my work schedule would never permit me to actually get into it. Swing shifts are badddddd


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:42 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:19 pm
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Location: San Diego
What year is she and where u located?

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ALLEY CAT 1984 RED LINE HOBIE 18 MAGNUM
Sail # 10505 or 277
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:47 pm 
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jmecky wrote:
What year is she and where u located?


She is an 84, and i am located near Chattanooga, TN.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:55 pm 
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Location: San Diego
84 means she probably a red line boat. For a few years the boats were built lighter but weaker and prone to failure at the fwd crossbar anchor plate.



The repair involves reaching your arm in the boat and adding a few layers of glass to anchor plate area, it also involves a lot of sanding. Here a link to how I did mine.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=86607

Id replace all the shock cords along with the standing rigging. Also Id attach the mast base plate to the crossbar with some weld all epoxy or something similar.

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ALLEY CAT 1984 RED LINE HOBIE 18 MAGNUM
Sail # 10505 or 277
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:15 pm 
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Is it possible to be an 84 and not a redline? I remember i tried to get inside with my old phone to get a pic but couldnt really tell on my old phone. I think i have some cloth laying around..just need to research what epoxy to use.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:39 pm 
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Location: San Diego
A Redline boat was built using red glue to join the deck with the hull. Inside the boat you can see a red bead of glue around the seam, outside the boat on the seam which is the underside of the deck lip you can see a thin red line right down the middle of the seam.

The hardest part of the job is grinding away the red bead of glue, its hard stuff and its really hard to do with one arm and without being able to see it, touch only. I used a really raspy rasp for most of it a grinder for some and 60 grit paper for the rest. My biceps grew about an inch.

The weakness aint really a problem unless your doing prolonged wave jumping with two or three heavy adults, I did mine so if I did want to go wave jumping I could. Also check all your crossbar anchor plates and the plate that wraps around the furler where the forstay meets up with the bow tangs for cracks.
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ALLEY CAT 1984 RED LINE HOBIE 18 MAGNUM
Sail # 10505 or 277
Image Image


Last edited by jmecky on Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2010 12:38 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Roswell, GA - USA
I have an 83 with SX wings in Rowell, GA - welcome to the club. I got a 5:1 downhaul and it works great. Also new bungies are good as they are the first to rot out. I keep my boat stored with the mast up at the lake so I have a snorkel cover for the jib. My next change is some saddles for the front trailer supports. Also don't forget good life jackets and sailing gear to extend your fun in the colder weather in the spring and fall.
Good luck and get out on the water.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:45 pm 
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Ditto to all of the above! Would definitely add some hull cradles to that trailer to protect your hulls. Do a search on this forum and you should be able to find a thread on how to make your own out of PVC pipe.

Spinnaker, spinnaker, spinaker.....add a spinnaker if you can afford to! Absolutely the best upgrade I've made to my boat! The increased thrill you experience in light to moderate winds is nothing short of exhilirating! I'm sure those that have done this upgrade will attest!

Tom
1988 H18M (Windraider)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 1:09 am 
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Well atm my main sail seems fine(ex. no holes or tares), but i am sure its worn. My jib has a part of the sail that has come unstitched, so i need to see about sewing it back down. So if my sails are "ok" What would you guys recommend mainsheet system wise? I mean my mainsystem seems to be in good working order. I dont want to waste money if i do not need to, but i do want to refresh/upgrade/refit/yadda. I guess i really just want the money to go to good choices.

Also any suggestions on a downhaul system?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 5:46 am 
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Location: Roswell, GA - USA
Here is the downhaul I got and it works well. It is also easy to install, no drilling.
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MS&Product_Code=07-2087&Category_Code=


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:45 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
What mainsheet system do you have?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:53 am 
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srm wrote:
What mainsheet system do you have?

sm


To be honest i do not know. I would make the assumption it was the standard system on an 84 magnum. if i am not mistaken it is a 6:1. I have not had any trouble operating it or holding it even in 15-20 mph winds, but i will admit my arm got a work out. Lol not a bad thing.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:20 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
There have been a couple different "standard" systems over the years and an '84 could have any number of different systems. All of the systems should be 7:1.

The original was the Seaway (brand) system. This is the most poorly operating system. It has a metal cleat, three separate (single) blocks hung from the boom, and the blocks don't have ball bearings. If you have this system, I would recommend upgrading.

The next best system was the Harken (brand) system also with three individual blocks hung from the boom and a triple block over a ratchematic block on the traveler car. This system works much better than the Seaway because the cleat operates more smoothly and the blocks have ball bearings which also operate more smoothly. The problem is that the single boom blocks have a tendency to twist and/or the lines criss-cross, so that indroduces more friction to the system. If you have this system, I would recommend replacing the three individual boom blocks with one "triple" boom block.

The last "standard" system that Hobie offered had a triple boom block and a triple block over a ratchematic block on the traveler car - all Harken. This system works quite well and no need to replace or upgrade it.

It's also possible that a previous owner upgraded to a Harken "low-profile" system in which the bottom block is a triple with the ratchematic and cleat built in. Again, no need to replace this system as long as it's operating smoothly.

The other thing to look at when evaluating your mainsheet system is the mainsheet line diameter. Stock mainsheet on a 1984 boat would have been 1/2" diameter line. This is too fat and won't run throug the bocks well. I would recommend upgrading to 3/8" diameter mainsheet line for any system to reduce friction.

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