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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:29 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:06 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
Thanks for the info.

I do have yet another question. Looking at the Hobie parts catalog, the diagram shows the following regarding the shroud anchor pin and bar:
AnCHoR PIn 20100000
AnCHoR BAR 50101701 (Replaces nut).

My questions is, if I get the bar and it replaces the nut, (I'm assuming the bar is tapped) how do you tighten up the pin to alignment? I have read and understand how to align the anchor pin to be 90 degrees to the angle of the shroud but if once tight in the bar and this does not align do you then leave it somewhat loose or use some sort of indexing spacer?

Thanks,

Brad


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 11:07 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Even with the nut you had to turn the anchor to tighten it. Angle is somewhat less important due to the twist toggle. You could use blue loc tite on the threads to set the position and hold it.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 1:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
What's the reasoning behind replacing the nut with the anchor bar, is there a strength improvement with the bar or is it simply to reduce parts inventory (commonality of parts with the H16 & H17)? Seems to me the nut has worked fine for decades an would be a heck of a lot cheaper than the anchor bar.

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 4:03 pm 
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It was a custom part (extra deep) and became unavailable. We felt that the depth of threads was critical, so suggested this as the replacement.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 6:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 6:37 pm
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Location: Wrightsville Beach
Wait a sec. So instead of the nut we should use the round bar like the 16. One of my pins broke last year . When I replaced them I noticed the nut was a size I could not find and ended up with a slightly smaller nut.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:06 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
This past weekend I was up to the lake and replaced the shroud anchor pins using the round bar instead of the nut and did use some loctite once they were in the correct orientation. That all seemed to ge real well. While I was at it, I replaced both of the port covers with the new screw in type and then as luck would have it, we received three days of good wind. Although Saturday was really rough due to the crazy two way chop on the lake. It was the wettest ride that I have ever experienced on a cat. Between that and the gusts, it made for very sore arms. Almost every time that I was flying a hull, a wave would smack the bow, change the boat to the wind and get very dicey weather she was going to stay upright. I thought it was great fun, a few passengers would probably disagree.

After such rough conditions, it got me to thinking. How many people, even without signs of stress in the hulls, add the anchor plate kits? From my reading, I gather that the early boats were fairly strong in those areas but I may just do it over the winter anyway. Thoughts?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 6:25 pm 
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Location: Oakland, CA
I'm glad to hear you had fun. It sounds like you and your crew need to learn to sail from the trapeze. On the other hand, sailing in winds that are 25 and up isn't fun for anyone. If there's too much chop and your crew isn't experienced then you'll have days like you described. If you sail to the southern end of the lake the chop isn't as bad.

cmftlynum wrote:
After such rough conditions, it got me to thinking. How many people, even without signs of stress in the hulls, add the anchor plate kits? From my reading, I gather that the early boats were fairly strong in those areas but I may just do it over the winter anyway. Thoughts?
Apparently the anchor plate kits are for boats made from 1984+ since the hulls were made lighter by making them thinner. They may be unnecessary for your boat.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 6:39 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
cmftlynum wrote:
How many people, even without signs of stress in the hulls, add the anchor plate kits? From my reading, I gather that the early boats were fairly strong in those areas but I may just do it over the winter anyway. Thoughts?


I would put the upgraded front crossbar anchor plates on any and every H18. There's no good reason not to, they are cheap insurance.

sm


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