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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:45 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 2526
Location: Jersey Shore
Skipshot wrote:
Bridles, not so much since the stress is split between the two, but check them anyway.


The load on the bridles is split between the two wires, but that is inconsequential because the bridles have to take both an inward and an upward load, therefore the load on the individual wires is increased. I did the trig/statics calcs a while back, and if I recall, the load on each individual bridle wire works out to be about the same as the load on the forestay wire. So really, you need to check and replace all of the wires. I personally think it's best to just bite the bullet and change them all out at the same time, this way three years down the road, you don't have to go back and try to remember what was changed when.

Also, regarding the bridle wires, the way you store/transport them can cause damage. Don't pull them back with the jib sheets (like is often done on the 16). This will cause a twist/bend in the wires where they connect to the bridle tang. Instead, tie them UP to the mast if you're going to leave them attached to the boat. Also be careful when connecting/disconnecting the forestay. You don't want to let the bridles drop and hang down since this can also damage the wires. On our boat, we completely disconnect the bride wires/furler and store in the trailer box. Also, when stepping the mast, we connect the forestay to the furler prior to stepping the mast, then when the mast is up, the crew connects the bridles to the bridle tangs. This keeps the bridle wires from getting damaged and is also an easier way to connect the wires since the crew doesn't have to try to hold up the furler, align the forestay fork with the adjuster, and insert the clevis pin.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:36 pm
Posts: 156
I started leaving the furler attached to the forestay after I started getting used to the H20 setup. The crew can quickly drop the pins into the bow tangs and get the ring dings in after the mast is already being supported by cables. Also chiming in on the crossbar hardware, especially if you're taking some stuff apart to replace it. I've got a 3/8'' rachet and an 8mm ball allen socket to check them periodically.

Tom

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Tom
Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 23, 2013 11:39 am
Posts: 6
Replaced the anchor pins (and bars instead of just nuts), shrouds, lower forestay, main halyard, and one rudder. This was done before I saw advice regarding bridle.

I had another Hobie 18 whose hulls had developed soft spots (squirting epoxy into hull worked for a while). The bridles from that looked to be in quite good condition so I'm using them. Ditto upper forestay.

The turn buckles on the diamond were frozen - several days of WD-40 application didn't do much good, but I had an old bottle of Break Free CLP that did the job almost right away.

The ports had not been unscrewed in years and the little pocket that fits inside needed de-molding. I'm using a little white grease to make it possible to reopen the ports without so much effort, and I'll put a few tools and some water in there.

Still need to walk the mast down to the boat and reassemble.


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