HC 18 buy?

Hi folks,

there are many interesting posts in this forum... I am currently looking at buying a HC 18.. Have sailed 16 a few weeks, really liked it, but looking for a boat that can take 2+ persons..

I have some interest in a HC18 from 82 in really nice shape. Hulls seems to be in very good shape. New trampoline, but a bit old and bulgy?? (don't know the english word) sails. Owner also tells me the hulls on the 82 are not multilayer laminated as later yrs..

It generally seems prices are significantly higher in Europe compared to the US.. Also if you compare a HC 18 '82 to a HC 18 with formula wings from '96 what should be the price difference (if both are in good shape).
The owner of the '82 is also a very nice guy so some hours of "tips and tricks" with the HC 18 will also follow...

Any suggestions?

I bought my '82 H18 a few years ago. It came on a trailer, had the rudder system upgrades, the 6:1 Harken main blocks, the Ariba hot Stick tiller, and a comptip. All of this for $1000 USD. I thought this was a good deal. I was able to obtain Magnum wings last year. I have spent about $3000 USD total on the boat including the purchase price and a new trailer.

The '82 hulls have the foam sandwich structure on the decks and the upper part of the hulls. The bottom of the hulls is all glass and takes beach wear very well. My boat has been dragged around the beached on New England for over 20 years and the hulls are still water tight.

The '82 H18 is heavier than thier newer counterparts. I am not deterred by this as I don't race and want a strong boat.

Find out what upgrades the boat has on it. This will greatly influence the price. I love my H18 and have found it to be nearly the perfect recreation beach cat for me.

_________________
Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO

I am also looking at purchasing a mid 80's H18. How would I find out what upgrades the boat should have?

_________________
Dave

As for upgrades the most popular are harken blocks (at least a 7:1 on the main), ariba hot stick or similar telescoping none aluminum tiller, comptip so you can race legal, EPO rudders (much stiffer than stock). A hot stick is under a 100 bucks, epos are getting harder and harder to find used so a boat with epos in good shape should bring a couple 100usd more than one with out. New epos are pricey, check with your dealer. The 7:1 or 8:1 harken main sheet will set you back a few hundred allthough they do turn up on ebay for under a hundred from time to time. The comptip will probably be on most boats but if it is not it is a 600 upgrade. If you are outside of the US don't worry about the comptip, it only required to race in the US.

The other thing to watch is the rudder casting system. There is an old style that uses an aluminum cam and new style that uses a composit cam. The components for the old style are no longer made and the upgrade is pricey, around 600 I think. The cool thing is that people will pay top dollar for the old casting pieces so they don't have to chomp off that big bill. A friend of mine replaced his old style and sold the pieces on ebay for more than the new kit cost. Please note--that is the exception to the rule though.

18's can be classified in three model years ranges, Old, Middle, New

The old style which was 83 and back was heavier than the others but was very strong. If cruising the weight difference was inconsiquential, if racing it not that big of deal unless you are racing on nationals level.

The Middle years were 84 to 87. Hobie attempted to light the boat which they did accomplish. The issue is a structural weakness right in front of the front cross bar. I have a picture of an 18 the bow snapped off of. This problem is more likley to occour if the boat has wings. There is a preventive repair for this which is outlined in this forumn, but it is a little bit of pain to do, and I question how much stronger it makes the hull. If you come across one of these boats and the repair has not been done, walk away, there are other 18's out there.

The new style 89 till the end are both light and strong. These are great boats all around. You should still for the possible delamination issues (usually a result of abuse/neglect) but for the most part no big deal.

Also a side note, the rudder system was upgraded on 87 and new boats if I am not mistaken

If you're thinking about racing, the Main sheet system shall be equal to or less than 7:1, per class rules.

_________________
hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297

Thanks for the correction John. I race open against F18's so I am allowed to race with the 8:1.

7:1 is OK, but I like sailing in the big blows too. I'd agree, given the opportunity my tired old body would enjoy the 8:1.

By all means don't pass on a solid H18 because it doesn't have this upgrade that a majority of boats may not have because of the rule.

_________________
hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297

John, I thought the rules were revised to allow 8:1 main sheet system at the same time the downhaul rule was revised?

No sir,

The 8:1 is specifically for the downhaul.

16.4 of the General rules applies to all classes, unless noted otherwise within the specific class.

The General Class rules are a very interesting read that cover everything, then check and compare to your specific class.

http://www.hobieclass.com/default.asp?P ... es/10773/0

_________________
hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297