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 Post subject: jib blocks/relacement
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 8:15 am 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 7:49 am
Posts: 1073
Location: North Carolina
The seaways have got to go. I have a pair of carbo rachamatics ( Harken ) that do not have a becket. Bought them for spin but didn't end up using them. Question - would it make since to use single line purchase for the jib, standard is 2-1 I think?
Question - could I tie off on the slide and run as standard?
The correct Harken blocks are $90 each and the ones I have were 70-80 last year, would like to use what I have. The jib doesn't have that much pressure and is usually cleated in so maybe a single line could work, go from jib clew thru block, across deck, thru block and back to clew. What do you guys think? I am considering a complete change to self tacking jib for next season if I can't find a happy medium before.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:49 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 779
Location: St. Louis, MO
You might be able to use some small diameter line to tie the blocks to the jib traveler cars. I have seen this done on small dinghys. It might work here as well.

You could always upgrade to a Harken traveler system...

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Nick

Current Boat
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Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 12:47 pm 
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Location: North Carolina
Nick,
I can attach to the slides but with no becket on the block I'm unsure where to tie the sheet off. The slide has a strap to attach the block, I would think I could tie off there or use a 1-1 and tie to the clew. Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:45 am 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
Oh yeah... apparently my brain was not fully functional yesterday as I completly forgot what a becket is.

Depending on how the block is set up, you may be able to use a small line to make a becket. If you can pass the small line through the center of the block where the sheeve is mounted. You can make a loop large enough to not interfere with the sheet. If that doesn't work, look at the block to see if you can attach some wire to it to make a becket.

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Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:18 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 6:46 pm
Posts: 6
You'll need the 2:1 purchase provided with the stock H18 setup. 1;1 will require too much strength to sheet in strong winds while you're going to weather. The cam cleat may not be able to grip the jib sheets in strong winds and it will be even more difficult to release the jib sheet from the camcleat.

It's time to experiment and find something cost effective that works reasonably well for you. Hobie Nick suggested some good ideas to experiment with. I'd also consider tying the end of the jibsheet to a smaller diameter stiff line that I would then tie to the base of the block or the traveler slide. I can't remember exactly what type of 3/16" line I purchased at either Boaters World or West Marine, but I have some purple flecked, red flecked and yellow flecked line and it's annoyingly stiff when using it with a jam cleat. The smaller diameter will enable you to tie it to the base of the block easier. The stiffness will help to prevent the line from catching in the jibsheet and jamming the blocks. If jamming becomes a severe problem, I'd consider running the small diameter line through a piece of clear plastic tubing from the hardware store to provide additional stiffness and guide the small dia rope several inches above the top of the block where the customary becket is located. I'd try using silicone to secure the tubing to the side of the block, but I rather doubt this will stand up to the service conditions.

Another thing you might try is using a loop of the smaller diameter line with the plastic hose secured to the base of the block and routed on each side of the block just like the becket on a block with becket.

Buy blocks with beckets on Ebay and sell your blocks without beckets on Ebay.

Good Luck in your search for a cost effective solution. Let us know how it works out.

Cheers,
Bob


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 4:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 7:49 am
Posts: 1073
Location: North Carolina
Thanks guys,
Harken says I can tie around the block using the openings at the base and create a becket. The rep said that application would actually be stronger than a riveted on becket because your using the strength of the entire block. I tried to get them to let me upgrade to the new ones with on/off rachet capability, no go. These blocks are easy to adjust the cleat angle on, easier than the new ones. I think I'm good to go. Thanks again for the input.


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