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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 6:29 am 
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To effect a deck repair I need to install a rear deck port to reach the area. I have seen info where the forward edge of the hole should be at least 6" aft of the crossbar. Is that a sufficient distance? Should I make it father away?
I want to avoid any weakening of the crossbar to hull connection area.

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Chris
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:01 am 
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Chris,

"centralmichigansailor" assembled one of the last new Hobie 18's (if not the very last) in 2011, including many worthwhile modifications. One such modification was the addition of wings, for which he needed to add hull ports in the stern decks. He chronicled the assembly here: viewtopic.phpf=13&t=36064

I have found his posts to be a fantastic reference for the way things ought to be installed or even just useful tricks and improvements. He installed his ports 10" from the crossbar.

I will be making a similar installation with 5" deck ports in my H18 stern decks in a few weeks for 2 reasons:
1) I have soft spots that I need to fill with epoxy, so the hull ports should help remove some of that extra weight
2) I just bought a pair of bottleports to make sailing a bit more leisurely :D http://www.bottleport.com/

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:12 am 
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6" is probably fine. I have a 4" diameter ports behind the crossbar on my boat and I would estimate them at about 6" from the rear of the crossbar. There's nothing in the hull structure you really need to worry about, it's just a matter of getting the port to fit the contour of the hull. If you go too close to the crossbar, you will start to run into the transition for the crossbar saddle.

What exactly are you trying to work on? Keep in mind that there is a large foam block in the back portion of the hull which will limit your working space (unless you cut it into smaller pieces).

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:00 am 
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Steve,
I have a soft spot on the port hull about 10" in front of the rear crossbar. Last season I attempted the injection fix from the top, to discover the bottom layer of glass is split, when the injected resin wound up on the hull's interior bottom. A rear port is necessary to reach that area.

I was under the impression the foam block can be pushed forward out of the way for room. I'd then move it back when finished. Is this not the case? How big and where exactly is the foam?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:56 am 
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The foam block goes from the back side of the daggerboard trunk to probably about 18" forward of the transom (or vice-versa) - definitely behind the rear crossbar. I know this becauase I'm doing some work on the aft crossbar connections on my boat right now and the foam is in the way....

You can cut the block about a foot from the end and push the small chunk back behind the port hole to give yourself some more room, but if you need to get 10" in front of the crossbar, it's going to be tight. The foam block also comes up to probably about 4" to 5" from the deck.

You're probably going to want to put in 5" diameter ports (the 4" ports I have are really tight to work in). Also, cut the hole, do the glass work, and then install the port insert. This will give you about another 1/2" on the diameter to work in.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 1:56 pm 
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Correction/update...

I measured my boat. The foam block ends directly underneath the rear crossbar saddle which is roughly 24" from the transom. The height of the block puts it 5" below the deck. The front edge of my 4" access ports are 3" from the back of the crossbar and they fit fine. Reaching 10" in front of the crossbar would be nearly impossible (at least for me) given the size of the port. I think 5" ports would be a necessity for this repair.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 2:15 pm 
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Thanks for the detailed info. I already have the ports and I'm fairly certain they are 5" versions The boat and box still have it's winter cover on, I can dig them out to verify.

I usually wait for the tree pollen to subside before uncovering the boat, avoiding all that nasty green dust.

Thanks again.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:37 am 
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srm, I'm looking at installing my 5" deck ports approximately where you have them (the hole will be 4 1/8" aft of the crossbar, or 3 1/2" to the flange), but I'm also adding SX wings to my boat. Do you think that the deck material that close to the crossbar contributes to the strength of the connection, or is necessary to cope with the added stress of the wings?

OlderBowman, where did your ports end up?

I'm trying to locate the ports far enough forward that the bottle ports are accessible without having to move the tiller arm out of the way, but I don't want to do something that'll result in hull failure. I have anchor plates on the forward crossbar, but none on the aft crossbar. As it is, the inboard bolts (aft crossbar) are hex head and I can't get a socket under the lip to remove them.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:24 am 
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I don't think adding an access port behind the rear crossbar will impact the hull strength. If anything, it will allow you to reinforce the hull by adding the stainless crossbar anchor kit or adding fiberglass to the hull/deck seam. It will also allow you to inspect the inside of the hull for damage.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 2:22 pm 
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Man, talk about synchronicity. I was just thinking yesterday I needed to search this forum for the dimensions Steve had posted about the foam block, when BAM here it is.

I am about to start the work adding the ports, since the tree pollen invasion is now over. Hopefully the foam block is where Steve said it'd be.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 10:45 am 
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Steve,
when you did your inside repair did you find any mold release on the inside surface of the fiberglass hull layup? I plan on wiping the repair area with acetone and am using fiberglass and vinylester resin, but I don't want any surprises.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 11:03 am 
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Chris,

If it helps, I do have some pretty good pictures of the inside of my hulls back there (including the underside of the deck) from installing my deck ports. I posted them in a separate topic: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=51574

I don't see nor feel any kind of mold release agent, PVA or what have you on the underside of my decks.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 2:45 am 
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There shouldn't be any type of mold release on the inside of the hull (the outside of the hull is the mold side, not the inside). But you should definitely give the repair area a good sanding (I would use 100 or 150 grit paper) before applying any resin. The surface needs to be roughed up/dull in order for the resin to form a good mechanical bond. After sanding, vacuum up the dust and then wipe the surface thoroughly with acetone. Then try not to touch the area with bare hands to avoid contaminating.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 8:09 pm 
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I put 5" deck ports aft of the beam. I split the difference between the stern and the saddle. I can reach the anchor plate bolts as well as the transoms if I need to that way.

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