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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 12:39 am 
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musicman wrote:
If you follow this link you'll find the fleet listing for North America. There is Fleet 400 in Toledo with a contact phone number. Give the guy a call, and he might know some 18 sailors in your area that can help. also, there is a google group for Hobie 18 sailors for Championship events, information etc... you can find it here


I'll check that out, thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2014 11:21 pm 
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musicman, are you saying that the crew and skipper bungies should actually cross each other under the lip? I don't think my boat is set up that way, but it seems like that setup would make them more likely to bind against one another... I don't really have any complaints with mine, so I think it's a minor difference in any case.

Roblox, I'm actually in Cleveland, though I keep my boat in Buffalo. I don't have the space for it where I am, and beach/marina storage is expensive. It's a shame that there isn't an active club closer. The club in ~Angola, NY is almost as close as the one in Toledo! Do you plan on sailing your boat on Lake Erie, or on a smaller lake out by you?

Coming into the summer months, I keep pretty busy, but if you're ever in the area, especially on a weekday, I'd be happy to lend a hand.

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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2014 11:57 pm 
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SabresfortheCup wrote:
musicman, are you saying that the crew and skipper bungies should actually cross each other under the lip? I don't think my boat is set up that way, but it seems like that setup would make them more likely to bind against one another... I don't really have any complaints with mine, so I think it's a minor difference in any case.

Roblox, I'm actually in Cleveland, though I keep my boat in Buffalo. I don't have the space for it where I am, and beach/marina storage is expensive. It's a shame that there isn't an active club closer. The club in ~Angola, NY is almost as close as the one in Toledo! Do you plan on sailing your boat on Lake Erie, or on a smaller lake out by you?

Coming into the summer months, I keep pretty busy, but if you're ever in the area, especially on a weekday, I'd be happy to lend a hand.


I'm actually planning on sailing at a lake near me called Charles Mill Lake. There is a sailing club on the lake although not specifically a catamaran club but they do have outdoor storage year round if you're a member. I think it's like $300 for membership and $100 for storage vs $600 that the marina on that lake wants to store a boat.

There is also a Catamaran club near Columbus I think in a town called Westerville. That's the closest dedicated catamaran club to me that I know of. It's an hour away though but it might be worth it to have a club member sail with us to show us some proper techniques.


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 3:10 pm 
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SabresfortheCup wrote:
musicman, are you saying that the crew and skipper bungies should actually cross each other under the lip? I don't think my boat is set up that way, but it seems like that setup would make them more likely to bind against one another... I don't really have any complaints with mine, so I think it's a minor difference in any case.

yes, that's the way I've been setting mine and others up. It offers a better stretch on the bungee using the full length rather than the possibility of it pinching at the hole through the deck... and it doesn't have to make that right angle turn to travel through... so retracts easier also.

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 4:32 pm 
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If the bungee is dragging or wearing out prematurely, check the back side of the fairlead and also the screws/rivets that hold the fairlead in position. On our boat, the screws were too long and the bungee was dragging on the point of the screw.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 7:07 pm 
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musicman wrote:
SabresfortheCup wrote:
musicman, are you saying that the crew and skipper bungies should actually cross each other under the lip? I don't think my boat is set up that way, but it seems like that setup would make them more likely to bind against one another... I don't really have any complaints with mine, so I think it's a minor difference in any case.

yes, that's the way I've been setting mine and others up. It offers a better stretch on the bungee using the full length rather than the possibility of it pinching at the hole through the deck... and it doesn't have to make that right angle turn to travel through... so retracts easier also.



I've rigged my boats with the skipper's coming from the back and the crew's coming from the front. From what I've seen the angle is the same from the front or the back. It may be a different story with those blocks if you plan to keep them on there.

Tom

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Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 9:25 pm 
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Ok I was able to get everything up yesterday just before another storm rolled in. It's been storming hard just about everyday since I bought the boat.

I did have a few problems though , first the jib halyard loop got tangled in the forestay and was way to high to actually attach the jib to. The trapeze line shrouds seem to stick on one side of their shackle instead of being on both sides of the shackle, if that makes any sense. Although that may just be from me lifting the mast with the trapeze wires all on one side instead of spreading them out.

Also, I'm not sure how to tie the tack of the sail to the mast. There is some strange pulley system that was included that I think is used for this but I am unsure of how to use this, the first picture shows how I think it goes but then there is another shackle on it that attaches somewhere. Also I don't know how to tie the mast rotator to the boom. There is also a single pulley under the trapeze which I don't know what is for. I will include pictures below. Any help is really appreciated.

Image
Image
Image


Last edited by roblox84 on Tue May 13, 2014 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 9:29 pm 
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Here is the pulley underneath the tramp which I have no idea what it's used for.

Image


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 9:31 pm 
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First pic is the pulley system and second pic shows what I think it's used for but what stumps me is it also has another shackle on it that attaches somewhere and another pulley for something.

Image
Image


Last edited by roblox84 on Tue May 13, 2014 9:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 9:35 pm 
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Here is what I think is the pulley used for the mast rotator. It is attached to the boom and the rope that runs through the pulley has a plastic ball on the end that I thought runs into the cleat on the boom but this doesn't work because the pulley hits the cleat so i'm stuck on this one also. If anyone can help me out with these items I will be in a much better situation, thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 2:50 am 
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The pulley under the tramp is for a return system for your righting line. There should be a large bungee under there that takes the slack out of the righting line and keeps it pulled tight against the tramp when not being used.

The pulleys at the base of the mast are your downhaul system. The double block should be shackled to the dead eye which is screwed to the mast just above the downhaul cleat. This will give you a 5:1 downhaul purchase.

The pulley on the end of the mast rotator bar should be removed as this will just get fouled up on the boom. Route the rotator adjustment line directly through the opening at the end of the rotator bar and then back to the cleat on the top of the boom. (Note that you will need to untie that black stopper ball when feeding the line during rigging.)

The head of the mainsail should be shackled to a large (about 3" diameter) stainless ring which is tied to the main halyard. Use a twist shackle to connect the sail to the ring. When fully hoisted, the ring engages onto the hook at the top of the mast and that is what holds the sail up. In your pics the sail is not fully hoisted.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone experienced can help you rig your boat the first time.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 8:32 am 
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srm wrote:
The pulley on the end of the mast rotator bar should be removed as this will just get fouled up on the boom.



I personally like the pulley on the mast rotator. Makes it a little easier to adjust when under load. Just move the plastic v cleat on the boom a little farther back.

But....unless you are making finite adjustments/tuning for racing, SRMs system is easiest. The same with the down haul. If you are sailing just for fun, just remove the downhaul devise and use a line from the bottom of the sail down to the stainless v-cleat that was stock on the mast. There is a lot to learn on these boats before you have to "tune" for max speed. (most of which you would never notice unless someone really good was passing you). simplify.......sail it.....sail it again. The longer it takes you to set up the boat the less you will sail it. (not to mention the less people/wife will want to hang out with you waiting to set the boat up). Should take you 40min to set up the boat by yourself, 30min with competent help.

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H18 '89 "Knotty Passion"
H20 '96 "20/20 Vision"
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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 9:39 am 
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I rig mine like SRM, the block can get hung up on the boom when tacking and even worse... the jib leads can get caught on some of that stuff during a jibe. Everyone I've seen rigs up some sort of bungee triangle to keep the lines clear.

Quick and dirty method for that is tie a bungee to one hiking strap, pass it up through the base of your diamond wires on the mast, and then back down to the other strap. A wise older 18 sailor near smacked me on the back of the head for not rigging my boat like that and coming up with lame excuses about fixing it in the future and "doing it right"

Tom

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Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 10:32 am 
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srm wrote:
The pulley under the tramp is for a return system for your righting line. There should be a large bungee under there that takes the slack out of the righting line and keeps it pulled tight against the tramp when not being used.

The pulleys at the base of the mast are your downhaul system. The double block should be shackled to the dead eye which is screwed to the mast just above the downhaul cleat. This will give you a 5:1 downhaul purchase.

The pulley on the end of the mast rotator bar should be removed as this will just get fouled up on the boom. Route the rotator adjustment line directly through the opening at the end of the rotator bar and then back to the cleat on the top of the boom. (Note that you will need to untie that black stopper ball when feeding the line during rigging.)

The head of the mainsail should be shackled to a large (about 3" diameter) stainless ring which is tied to the main halyard. Use a twist shackle to connect the sail to the ring. When fully hoisted, the ring engages onto the hook at the top of the mast and that is what holds the sail up. In your pics the sail is not fully hoisted.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone experienced can help you rig your boat the first time.

sm


Thanks that helps me out so much. The sail wasn't fully hoisted because I wasn't very comfortable locking it in and then not being completely familiar with how the locking mechanism works I didn't want it stuck up there when it was lightning out. Also that sail gets pretty darn heavy to lift when it gets that high up there.


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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 10:42 am 
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wscotterwin wrote:
srm wrote:
The pulley on the end of the mast rotator bar should be removed as this will just get fouled up on the boom.



I personally like the pulley on the mast rotator. Makes it a little easier to adjust when under load. Just move the plastic v cleat on the boom a little farther back.

But....unless you are making finite adjustments/tuning for racing, SRMs system is easiest. The same with the down haul. If you are sailing just for fun, just remove the downhaul devise and use a line from the bottom of the sail down to the stainless v-cleat that was stock on the mast. There is a lot to learn on these boats before you have to "tune" for max speed. (most of which you would never notice unless someone really good was passing you). simplify.......sail it.....sail it again. The longer it takes you to set up the boat the less you will sail it. (not to mention the less people/wife will want to hang out with you waiting to set the boat up). Should take you 40min to set up the boat by yourself, 30min with competent help.


Ok I will try to move the plastic cleat back and keep the pulley there. Once we get the hand of rigging the boat it definitely doesn't seem too time consuming at all. I think the most annoying part is tightening and loosening the shrouds each time. Would it be ok to store the boat with the mast up and shrouds always tight? Or is it not good to keep the mast up on these boats when not sailing?


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