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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2014 6:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 6:30 pm
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Location: Brooklyn, NY
Hi all,
First off shout out to pelican for his pics of this upgrade he did hopefully attached below. I am installing this at the weekend on my new 18sx and had two questions:

1) is there a specific ss screw I should be using (obviously one that fits the cam and fairlead but anything else I should be looking for?)
2) is it as simple as drilling a small pilot hole, adding some sealant and attaching?

Thanks all and thanks pelican for the pics to help guide me!


Image

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'89 18SX


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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 10:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:45 pm
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Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
1. the screw size/type depends on what cleats/fairleads you get, and for Harken products are clearly labeled on the back of the package. I think the micro cleats are #8 machine screws, and the standard size cleats are #10 machine screws. whether you need "Pan head" or "oval head" and the length depend on which fairlead you use.
2. To install you really should tap a threaded hole for your fastener (taps and tap drills are available from http://www.mcmaster.com/, among other places. Then use "Tef-Gel" on the screws (isolate the SS screw from the aluminum crossbar) and just screw it all together.

For what its worth, I have a slightly different setup that Pelican's that seems to work well for me- I have a Harken H470 "Micro Cam Cleat w/X-Treme Angle Fairlead". its mounted a little bit behind the centerline of the crossbar, so the furling line tends to stay in the cam cleat without the forward fairlead like pelican uses. I then use 2mm "Marlow Excel Racing" line for the furling line.

I'll take some pictures this weekend if this isn't clear to you.

http://www.apsltd.com/c-7008-harken-micro-cam-cleat-kits.aspx
http://www.apsltd.com/c-7269-small-diameter-high-tech-double-braids.aspx

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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 1:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
I would probably just use a stainless steel self-tapping sheet metal screw. Most likely the cleat and fairlead take a #10 screw size. It should have more than adequate strength for this application.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:04 am
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Location: Bowie, MD
I wouldn't bother installing a fairlead. Just two more holes you don't need in your crossbar.

Jim


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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 6:30 pm
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Location: Brooklyn, NY
Awesome advice as always. Thanks all.

Jim, I'm curious why you don't think the fairlead is necessary. I thought it would be a big advantage to ensure no slippage of the line in a cleat and that you always have the right angle of attack and all. Understand more holes in this part of the structure never optimal. I guess I can always install the cleat and then play it by year if the fairlead is necessary.

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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 4:36 pm 
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Location: Bowie, MD
The other end of the furling line goes into the furling drum, a point that never really changes. It might go ever so slightly higher or lower as you change your mast rake, but it doesn't change at all from side to side. You will be able to point the cleat directly at the furling drum when you mount it, so there is no need to use a fairlead to modify the direction the line follows between cleat and drum. Just mount the cleat ever so slightly aft of directly on top of the crossbar so it has a slightly "nose up" attitiude and you will be good to go. If you can, mount the cleat after you have raised the mast. Lead your furling line aft to the front crossbar and you will find a very natural position and angle to mount the cleat.

Jim


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