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 Post subject: Hobie 18 Rudder Autopsy
PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 7:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 15, 2014 11:51 am
Posts: 28
Location: Orange Beach, AL
I broke a rudder off at high speed 2 weeks ago which resulted in the affected upper casting being disengaged, resulting in a loss of steering while at the far end of the hiking stick. The pitch-pole/cartwheel was so violent that the mast did not settle gently and float, instead it entered the water like a javelin and found the mud about 12 feet down in one clean motion. By the time I floated up and got the water out of my eyes to look around, it was obviously beyond the point of being righted without outside assistance.

The GPS track showed an average of 19 knots, I can't comprehend what I was doing when I hit the water... It felt like catching air from a wakeboard jump as I was catapulted off. I'm not sure if I hit anything, but only about a 3" tall portion was left attached to the lower casting. I did hear a loud bang, but didn't see anything but the rudder disappearing into the murky water.

Upon reaching shore, and flipping the boat on it's side (the main boltrope started to pull out of the comptip, and then jammed upon lowering to the aluminum part of the mast) I then took the opportunity to dissassemble everything. What I found was evidence of long term cracks within the rudder, bent bolts in the tiller/crossbar system (the short bolt attaches to the hiking stick) and a broken rivet in the affected upper casting. I think all were a result of age, and not the ultimate load that broke the rudder.


Image

Take a look at the inside of that rudder... The grey area must have been stress cracked for a long period of time to get discolored like that. It appears that up until the final failure, about an eight of an inch at the leading edge, and about 3 linear inches towards the back was carrying the load.

I think this may be a lexan rudder from the 70's. My guess is that the casting "bubbles" were open-cell and allowed water in from the bolt-holes, which later froze. Aside from that, at least thirty years of aging took its toll! It had markings "AH" and what appears to be "XX1" if anyone can tell me that it is something besides nylon? It was yellowed with age... I bought a new one from Strictly Sail to replace it since I was afraid of getting a used/probably lexan rudder off ebay (be warned, fellow shoestring budget sailors!)

Here is what I learned:
1. Dissassemble/inspect things before they break
2. leave your phone/radio tied up on the trampoline in a waterproof case instead of in a hull that may end up getting submerged
3. It's possible to turtle "instantly" running downwind in 30mph gusts if your boat somersaults and wind gets under the trampoline (I was about 135 off the wind, but gusts were much closer to 180!)
4. A spare parts kit should have several long zip ties to secure a casting if a rudder breaks through a bolt hole. After righting the boat, I had to remove the hiking stick and use the crossbar like a tiller extension. At which point the your trap wire becomes useless because you are now stuck with your rump on the tramp in high winds.
5. the bottom of the hull is really slippery when you have a lot of wave action and you are trying to keep you mast from being bent. Wear water shoes.
6. I doubt a used rudder is worth the cost savings, even if you are sailing a beat up $500 boat


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:24 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 610
Location: Buffalo, NY
I'm not terribly familiar with injection molding, but that seems like an awful lot of porosity in the rudder. It certainly created a weak spot. Possibly a defect in the rudder? It does look like the rudder was significantly cracked/damaged before it broke, too. I'd be curious to see a side view, in case there are other cracks propagating through the rudder, from the bolt holes, for example.

With the bolts bent the way they are, I'd be more inclined to say you hit something, unless the bolts area really that old. The force that split your rudder was of course originating from the bolt hole. Material science 101, materials typically fail perpendicular to the principle stress direction... aka, the force that split your rudder is perpendicular to the surface of the crack. The minimum cross-sectional area of the rudder was through the center of the bolt hole, so that's the other aspect of it.

Downwind sailing in high winds can result in a quick and sudden pitch pole, I've been there before! Also note that the screw in ports are generally NOT watertight. They're pretty well sealed, but water still manages to get in.

As you pointed out, though, your rudder lasted 30 years, and absent of defects or damage, I imagine it would've lasted even longer. Even with the porosity and cracking, it took extreme sailing conditions to break it. I don't think used rudders are really a problem if they're in good shape.

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Mike
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'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:22 pm
Posts: 263
aaronp wrote:
The GPS track showed an average of 19 knots, I can't comprehend what I was doing when I hit the water..


aaronp wrote:
It's possible to turtle "instantly" running downwind in 30mph gusts



Bravo! :mrgreen:

Sail like that and parts break! Sounds like you need EPOs

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H18 '85
H18 '89 "Knotty Passion"
H20 '96 "20/20 Vision"
Fleet 259 Central Coast California


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
Posts: 984
Location: Benicia, CA
Absolutely Love this autopsy!

Happy to see folks still finding the edges of envelopes. Play with stuff til it breaks! Love it!

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SeaRail 19
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BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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