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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 10:13 am 
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I have followed a similar procedure but after I fill the holes with resin I cover the holes with blue tape a flip the hull or whole boat upside down. This keeps the resin flush to the deck when you pull the tape off and compensates for the shrinkage if there is any. It also keeps the resin on the deck side of the hull if there are any punctures in your bottom laminate (won't drain out).

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 7:03 am 
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GITROT update: i used the "gitrot" to seal up some leaks in the lower joint of board slot. not sure if this was a good product for this or not. it seemed to me that the penetrating aspect of this product would be a plus. I used the Vacuum technique. i also used several applications cleaning with alcohol prior to first application.
The advise here is to, if any doubt, add a little extra hardener to your mix. i thought i had it mixed okay, but when taking off the "Drips" on the very bottom, i found most of them still a little soft. i was expecting gelcoat hard after 3 weeks. i guess i will adjust the mix when actually attacking the soft spot.
QUESTION: for comment made in previous post: "It went through and ended up at bottom of hull" my flotation block seems to be right there. '78 boat. Did you remove yours? or how did this happen?
mine seems to move around some, but not a lot.
my repair will entail area from, rear of board slot back to front of cross bar.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:16 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
raisehull wrote:
The advise here is to, if any doubt, add a little extra hardener to your mix.


No disrespect, but I disagree with that advise. Adding extra hardener is OK if you are working with polyester resin as it will just cause the resin to kick off sooner.

Adding extra hardener when working with Git-Rot, or any other epoxy based resin, is a bad idea. You are just as likely to have curing problems if you add too much hardener as if you add too little hardener. The best bet is to double check the required ratio, measure carefully (use graduated mixing cups), and mix thoroughly. Mix the two parts for a minimum of 1 minute (best to look at a clock or start a stop watch rather than guess at the time).

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 7:07 pm 
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I am wide open to advise on this. all i know is what happened. i used the mixing bottle included, and to tell the truth, i have no way to see if the stuff that stayed in the repair area is hard or not. is it even supposed to get this hard? i don't know that either. This is my first time working with this product. i am going to be ordering another kit for the deck repair, so, maybe i will get in touch with company directly before i start that project.


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