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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 9:09 am 
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TAMUmpower wrote:
I thought the same but at least the load will always be on the leeward side so it's never going to have a load at the same time as the shroud.


I would still be concerned about the side load on the pin regardless of whether or not it's combined with the shroud load. I can see a situation where you have one guy on the wire, charging downwind in a blow and stuff the bow into a wave, the sheet load would skyrocket and be transferred to the bolt, in which case you would be stressing the bolt in a direction it was never intended to be loaded.

If it were me, I'd probably either drill separate mounting holes through the hull flange and bolt thru the flange with a backing bar of some sort, or bolt thru the deck, again with a backing plate.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 9:46 am 
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srm wrote:
TAMUmpower wrote:
I thought the same but at least the load will always be on the leeward side so it's never going to have a load at the same time as the shroud.


I would still be concerned about the side load on the pin regardless of whether or not it's combined with the shroud load. I can see a situation where you have one guy on the wire, charging downwind in a blow and stuff the bow into a wave, the sheet load would skyrocket and be transferred to the bolt, in which case you would be stressing the bolt in a direction it was never intended to be loaded.

If it were me, I'd probably either drill separate mounting holes through the hull flange and bolt thru the flange with a backing bar of some sort, or bolt thru the deck, again with a backing plate.

sm


Thats true. I suppose you could just drill through the lip an inch forward of the shroud pin so that you also went through the anchor plate for extra reinforcement.


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 9:31 pm 
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When you have the spin up you have to keep the main sheet sheeted in and only traveled out about 1/3 max. Now your using the main sheet and sail as a back stay taking pressure off the comptip and some off the side stay anchor bolt.

Regardless of your setup you should change out the side stay anchor bolt as regular maintenance depending on how hard you sail. I sail my boat pretty hard, between the 2014 North Americans at the Columbia George and 2015 at North Americans at Avila plus the 2015 Ditch Run with Spin I would say mine are overdue for replacement.

H18 SX with SX jib, Tiger main and F18 21m spin.

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 10:41 am 
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Since you can hand hold the line I'm assuming the line load isnt actually that high and the turning blocks could be as small as possible. The 29mm Harken carbo blocks have a 330lb working load and can take a 5/16" line. Shouldn't that be enough? I see pictures of people running ~50mm sized turning blocks...and apart from possibly less rolling resistance I can't see why.


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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:47 am 
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Starting to get cold here in Canberra but managed a quick sail this afternoon.

From the Navionics Marine app on the iPhone we managed 17.4 knots for the top speed... kite up, one on the wire.

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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2016 1:41 pm 
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RushMan wrote:
Starting to get cold here in Canberra but managed a quick sail this afternoon.

From the Navionics Marine app on the iPhone we managed 17.4 knots for the top speed... kite up, one on the wire.


What kind of wind were you in?


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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2016 2:39 pm 
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TAMUmpower wrote:
RushMan wrote:
Starting to get cold here in Canberra but managed a quick sail this afternoon.

From the Navionics Marine app on the iPhone we managed 17.4 knots for the top speed... kite up, one on the wire.


What kind of wind were you in?


Less than 15 knots for most of the day, mostly only one on the wire upwind. Flat water, no white caps.

Guessing the gust was 20 knots, the joys of lake sailing with a mountain directly upwind.

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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 10:57 pm 
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Image

My spinnaker parts pile has reached critical mass. Just waiting on my used windsurfing mast in the mail and I'll be good to go. Oh, and the actual sail, I might need that too.

Gonna be laying up some fiberglass on a different project this weekend so I'm going to try and glass up my snuffer ring while I'm at it and see how it turns out. I forgot to measure some of the other rings when I had the chance so I'm just going to eyeball it.


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 7:38 am 
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Wow, that's surprisingly little for a "spinnaker kit!" Though I'm sure that's about $600 right there! :lol:

The pole & snuffer system seems to be the most difficult part of the whole project to obtain/build and install. Is there any chance that one could use a spinnaker pole/hardware kit for the H16? Perhaps if we could talk matt miller into selling it without the H16 spin, it could be an easier way to get a spin pole setup? I haven't really looked much into it, just a thought. I'm sure a tiger pole would also work, but that's even more expensive & difficult to obtain anyways.

The only other part that would have me a little concerned is drilling into the center of the forward crossbar to rivet the spin pole mount on. I know it's been done without issue, but it seems like removing more material in the center of the crossbar is asking for trouble. I'm wondering if there's a way to epoxy or lash the mount to the crossbar without drilling into it? Or maybe I'm just being overly concerned. I'm assuming that those rivets have to be drilled out any time you need to remove/replace the tramp, also.


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 10:11 am 
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SabresfortheCup wrote:
Wow, that's surprisingly little for a "spinnaker kit!" Though I'm sure that's about $600 right there! :lol:

The pole & snuffer system seems to be the most difficult part of the whole project to obtain/build and install. Is there any chance that one could use a spinnaker pole/hardware kit for the H16? Perhaps if we could talk matt miller into selling it without the H16 spin, it could be an easier way to get a spin pole setup? I haven't really looked much into it, just a thought. I'm sure a tiger pole would also work, but that's even more expensive & difficult to obtain anyways.

The only other part that would have me a little concerned is drilling into the center of the forward crossbar to rivet the spin pole mount on. I know it's been done without issue, but it seems like removing more material in the center of the crossbar is asking for trouble. I'm wondering if there's a way to epoxy or lash the mount to the crossbar without drilling into it? Or maybe I'm just being overly concerned. I'm assuming that those rivets have to be drilled out any time you need to remove/replace the tramp, also.


Those drill 4 drill holes for the gooseneck bracket won't do anything to the strength of the front beam. And yes, the real pain is that you have to drill the rivets and remove the bracket if you need to take the tramp off.

If it really bugs you then you can do what Kaos did on a previous boat and cut a notch on the end of the pole and stick it on the dolphin striker.

I'd just go to a windsurf shop a get an old used mast or find one on ebay/craigslist. There are plenty available.

For the snuffer I'm almost done with the form of the ring. This is a rush job version 1.0 meant to be similar to the SNU half ring design. It's just a pool noodle wrapped in a few layers of fiberglass cloth. I'll bondo it today so I can sand and paint it. Should work for the time being. I'd like to shape the foam more if I make another one so it is a little more low profile for the least drag possible.

Image

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 1:10 pm 
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If you don't want to drill out the rivets each time you remove the tramp, then drill and tap the crossbar for 10-24 machine screws so you can unscrew the bracket for removal.

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 12:40 am 
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Jib track mounted blocks work well, and pole can be mounted below tramp track in the front. I got some good spinnaker play last year and bent a shroud pin. Even with the mainsheet on hard, there isn't much force on the leeward shroud, certainly not enough to support the spin load in a good blow.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 11:59 am 
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I was thinking about moving my spin blocks from the shroud adjuster to the outside of the SX wings.... thank goodness for Dyneema.
Will that set up structural problems with the wings?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 7:13 am 
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This is my 1$ snuffer system. Got it tested in the race today and it seem to work just fine.
And you always got a toilet onboard.
Imagetoa by Christer Ljungqvist, on Flickr


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 3:40 pm 
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christerljung wrote:
This is my 1$ snuffer system. Got it tested in the race today and it seem to work just fine.
And you always got a toilet onboard.
Imagetoa by Christer Ljungqvist, on Flickr


Is that a freakin laundry hamper? I love it.


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