As long as the beam isn’t cracked, it should be fine once you re-rivet the step. You can inspect it once you remove the rivets. If you can get the striker rod to loosen up, it will make re-riveting the step much easier.
I’m not sure when Hobie changed from the 2-rivet to the 4-rivet mast step, but it would have been sometime in the early 1980’s. If your boat has a 2-rivet step, you should look into swapping it out for a 4-rivet step, which is more secure.
After you remove the rivets, lift the mast step out and closely inspect the top of the beam for cracks. Typically I have seen the cracks going between the rivet holes and the dolphin striker post hole. The crack will then start to extend around the circumfrence of the beam. It’s important to make sure the mast step is firmly connected to the crossbar and that the striker assembly is kept tight.
For your shroud tension, the mast step won’t impact that. No matter how tight you make your shrouds when rigging the boat, you will pretty much always notice that the leeward shroud goes slack when sailing upwind. This is because the mast is flexible and when you sheet in the mainsail, the mast bends. When it bends, the distance between the mast tang and the mast step shortens and the leeward shroud goes slack. This is totally normal.
There should be a bearing in the mast step between the casting and the plastic hemispherical top of the step. You may have to purchase a mast step rebuild kit which includes the bearing and the hemisphere. Or I believe you can use a Hobie 16 mast chip and just drill a hole in the center to use as a bearing.
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