Outhaul shock cord replacement

I put this in the general forum, but I think it belongs here:

My 1990 H18 needs the shock cord replaced in the boom; it's useless and will probably snap anyway unless I replace it.

Has anyone had success with replacing it without drilling off the end cap?

Wyatt

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Sails off Angola, NY, Lake Erie.

Hey Wyatt,
I tried to do that as a beach repair onetime and was unsuccessful. Bite the bullet and drill those two rivets. It's a 10 minute job. You may need to use some heat to break the end cap free. Make friends with rivets, they are intimidating at first, but as you use them you'll grow to like them. 3/16 cobalt drill will do the trick.

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Wyatt, If you don't have access to SS or monel rivets try using some fishing line. Premeasure the shock cord to include enough for knots on the mast side of the fitting. Feed the shock cord thur one side of the fitting inside the boom and tie a knot in the bitter (extream) end (mast side) then feed the cord around the pully at the outboard end of the boom. Once you've done this take some monofilament (5 - 6 feet) & feed it thru the other side of the aluminum eye inside the extrusion. Try tying the monfilament end to the bitter end of the shock cord so there are no kinks in the shock cord and pull it back thru the fitting. If you have another person to help, they can stretch the cord while you tie the last knot otherwise a pair of visegrips works here. You may need gloves to do this and be sure to heat cut the shock cord on an angle before starting. Good luck! Rick B.

I think it's worth mentioning again...there's no load on the end cap, drill out the rivets, do your business and reinstall with self-tapping stainless steel screws. Spend the time you save sailing and the money for a rivet gun on something else.

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I'm really not afraid of rivets; I have my own gun. I was just seeing how difficult it was. After seeing the long explanation, I think I'll just drill, replace and rivet.

Thanks to all of you for your advice.I'll do it when I get back to NY in May. We're sailing in Florida this month.

Wyatt. [/b]

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Sails off Angola, NY, Lake Erie.

i replaced mine on the standard 18 and i didn't have to drill anything. i just finessed it through the hole by taping the new bungee to the old bungee. i find that it is better to try and fix things the way MacGayver would instead of cutting and drilling.

"Macgayver"? Does this word have any relation to "gayborhood", "gaytto", or "Targay"?

(Now you got me started.)

I like your solution, though, since I don't have on hand a Hobie dealer's array of rivets. Hey, Jeremy, do you sell a grab-bag of rivets for various Hobie models?

Come on man, Mac would pull the shock cord out a foot with some made up tool that he fashioned out of a lighter, tie a new knot, clip the excess with a pair of fingernail clipers and sail.

One benefit of drilling off the end cap is that you can assess the bearings, the sheaves, and as long as the end cap is off, you might as well replace the outhaul line. Oftentimes, I find that the sheaves are frozen, and partly to blame for the outhaul not functioning. Another benefit is that it's faster.



No, but it's easy enough to do. Any dealer can put together a little regatta package.

Depending on the boat, an assortment of:
8010131
8011231
8010181
Would solve most problems. And for the newer 16's add:
8011251
It's hard to find.
And the older 16's should stock up on:
81010201
For the trav tracks.

That's basically the list that I keep in the mobile regatta trailer.

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The examination of the sheaves makes sense. Everytime I needed two rivets, I always purchased six of the stainless, so I have a nice collection now in my boat tool box. I think this will be a good fix.

The MacGuaver thing is funny; I can actually see him doing that...

W

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Sails off Angola, NY, Lake Erie.