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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2022 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2022 11:17 am
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Location: Advance,NC & Muscle Shoals,AL
Continuing my quest for information. One of the four Hobie 16’s that I have has the v cleat for the main sheet traveler. I would like to upgrade this to be the same as my other three boats which have the stock traveler for pre 1994 boats. The traveler track looks and measures the same on all four boats. I want to add the pad eye, swivel cam cleat with base and newer (pre 1994) traveler car. I will need to drill and add rivets to install all these. What is best way to get all the appropriate rivets for this as well as reattaching the traveler track?
I would like to buy a good rivet gun tas well as this will be necessary for this job as well as replacing broken cleats on a few of my masts. Please advise if you know of this tool and where to purchase it.
Thanks for any help.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2022 12:39 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
The traveler track and crossbar wall are each about 1/8” thick, so you will need rivets with a grip length of at least 1/4”. I generally purchase rivets that are about 1/2” overall length for general use. The extra length is typically not a problem, you will just need to do a few extra pumps on your rivet gun. For the traveler track you will need to purchase countersunk head rivets. I find McMaster Carr is a good source if you want to purchase larger quantities of rivets.

The Harbor Freight heavy duty rivet gun has served me well for 10+ years of intermittent use. It is capable of pulling stainless steel rivets which are otherwise very difficult to pull with a basic hardware store rivet tool.

For installing the traveler track rivets, you may need to come up with some type of spacer/adapter since the nose of the rivet gun probably will not fit down into the track.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2022 1:58 pm 
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I have just done this conversion to mine and instead of using rivets I have used riv nuts


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2022 9:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
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Location: Clearwater, FL
The Hobie parts list shows using part# 8010201 rivets for the rear traveler track. This is twenty 3/16" x 3/8" CSK SS rivets (CCC 6-6).
You can get these rivets from your Hobie dealer, Murrays, Grainger, Fastenal, McMaster Carr.

For other parts like the padeye and pad for cam cleat, etc. go to Murrays four page interactive H14/H16 Parts Guide. You can click on any part and it will take you to the correct description and additional recommended items like rivets and screws. It also includes a table of all the rivets for your boat.
https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Hobie-14-16-parts.pdf

If the nosepiece of your rivet pulling tool will not fit all the way down to the bottom of the traveler track you can put some small nuts on the rivet's mandrel (the disposable part that the rivet gun grips) to make it work.

I like to use the Marson Model VHR-2 M79032 Heavy Duty Hand Riveter.

Image

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2022 11:01 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2022 11:17 am
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Location: Advance,NC & Muscle Shoals,AL
MRawlings wrote:
I have just done this conversion to mine and instead of using rivets I have used riv nuts

I had wondered if anyone had done that. I recently purchased a Marson Nut Setter M34606 Kit for a job I was working on and it crossed my mind if it would work on my boats. I have trouble with cleats on a couple of my masts and had considered it for this. A replacement cleat was included with one boat but the holes didn't line up correctly. This older boat may have different cleats than the standard mid 80's boats. The hole spacing was about 1/8" off. I didn't like the idea of trying to slot holes in the mast and the plastic cleat looked like it would be weakened by slotting those holes. This was for the downhaul.

The entire track would need to be removed if wanting to add them on one end to allow easier removal of the traveler car.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2022 11:09 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
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Location: Clearwater, FL
If you rivet your main traveler track to the rear crossbeam, then you only have to drill the heads off two of rivets at one end, pry the track up slightly and then slide the traveler car out. After repairs you can put the traveler car back in the track and replace the two counter sunk SS rivets.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2022 11:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2022 11:17 am
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Location: Advance,NC & Muscle Shoals,AL
Tim H16 wrote:
The Hobie parts list shows using part# 8010201 rivets for the rear traveler track. This is twenty 3/16" x 3/8" CSK SS rivets (CCC 6-6).
You can get these rivets from your Hobie dealer, Murrays, Grainger, Fastenal, McMaster Carr.

For other parts like the padeye and pad for cam cleat, etc. go to Murrays four page interactive H14/H16 Parts Guide. You can click on any part and it will take you to the correct description and additional recommended items like rivets and screws. It also includes a table of all the rivets for your boat.
https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Hobie-14-16-parts.pdf

That is very helpful information. I can tell that the end of track on boat that I am trying to upgrade the traveler on has been riveted with different rivets as the rivet heads are slightly taller and larger in diameter. I had read these needed to be countersunk rivets. I haven't dealt with Murrays before but they have an impressive looking website.

If the nosepiece of your rivet pulling tool will not fit all the way down to the bottom of the traveler track you can put some small nuts on the rivet's mandrel (the disposable part that the rivet gun grips) to make it work.

I like to use the Marson Model VHR-2 M79032 Heavy Duty Hand Riveter.

I found one of these for $80. After setting some with a cheap tool I think it will be money well spent if they are easy to set.

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2022 11:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2022 11:17 am
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Location: Advance,NC & Muscle Shoals,AL
srm wrote:
The traveler track and crossbar wall are each about 1/8” thick, so you will need rivets with a grip length of at least 1/4”. I generally purchase rivets that are about 1/2” overall length for general use. The extra length is typically not a problem, you will just need to do a few extra pumps on your rivet gun. For the traveler track you will need to purchase countersunk head rivets. I find McMaster Carr is a good source if you want to purchase larger quantities of rivets.

Good to know, I use them for parts quite often. I am still nervous and insecure about getting the correct stuff, not having enough first hand experience with what is correct. I have never done much riveting except for small blind rivets like used on gutters and sheet metal.

The Harbor Freight heavy duty rivet gun has served me well for 10+ years of intermittent use. It is capable of pulling stainless steel rivets which are otherwise very difficult to pull with a basic hardware store rivet tool.
I have looked at a Harbor Freight close by and not found anything but the standard hardware store rivet gun.

Yes, it is easy enough to cut a spacer from some steel with correct dimensions to fit inside the channel and long enough to get on top of the track. I had tried stacking small nuts and washers one time and kept dropping pieces in the grass. I guess you learn to work over a sheet or tarp so it is easier to find stuff when you drop it :x

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2022 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 3:49 pm
Posts: 21
Old16&New wrote:
MRawlings wrote:
I have just done this conversion to mine and instead of using rivets I have used riv nuts

I had wondered if anyone had done that. I recently purchased a Marson Nut Setter M34606 Kit for a job I was working on and it crossed my mind if it would work on my boats. I have trouble with cleats on a couple of my masts and had considered it for this. A replacement cleat was included with one boat but the holes didn't line up correctly. This older boat may have different cleats than the standard mid 80's boats. The hole spacing was about 1/8" off. I didn't like the idea of trying to slot holes in the mast and the plastic cleat looked like it would be weakened by slotting those holes. This was for the downhaul.

The entire track would need to be removed if wanting to add them on one end to allow easier removal of the traveler car.



The good thing about the riv nuts is when the stainless reacts with the alloy it only kills the riv nut not the cross beam, so its a simple replacement, I just spent a lot of hours tig welding all the old holes up


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2024 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2023 6:47 pm
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MRawlings wrote:
I have just done this conversion to mine and instead of using rivets I have used riv nuts


Any links (or specs) you can provide for the best riv nuts for a Hobie traveller track?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2024 10:35 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 4176
Location: Jersey Shore
McMaster Carr carries stainles steel rivnuts. Sized for 10-24 or 10-32 screws would probably be most appropriate since that is a close equivalent to the original 3/16” diameter rivets. You would also need stainless steel machine screws and those might need to be low-profile countersunk head to clear the traveler car.

Unless you plan to remove the track on a regular basis (and I see no reason why that would be needed), converting to rivnuts seems like a lot of work for little return. You will need to drill out all of the existing rivets, over-size the holes in the crossbar, install the rivnuts, and then screw the traveler track back down. Also keep in mind the rivnuts need a special tool to install - it is not a standard pop rivet gun.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2024 8:58 pm 
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(Deleted - I realised I was about to suggest something that wouldn’t work.).)


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