Hobie Cat Forums

I understand that the idea behind having the new downhaul is that it's easier to adjust on-the-fly... what I'm not getting is what's with the swivel cleat in the "example" images. (Smaller version of what the traveler line goes through). It just seems like "fluff" to me. Do you racers really wish you could adjust the downhaul so often that you feel like you need that sort of setup? If not, then why not just cleat it off to the existing horn cleat and save a bunch of $$?

Thanks in advance!


P.S. FYI - I like new gadgets, I just like to understand the theory behind them before I shell out my money.

_________________
Warm regards,

Jim



"A little crazy but with big balls."

The short answer is "yes"

As proof, here's a photo of me heading upwind at the 16 NA's:


You can see me adjusting the downhaul and trying to get it to stay on that @#$%&*@^# cleat! And that's in light air. Forget adjusting it in heavy air. You're just too busy to mess with that cleat.

In the grand scheme of things, a new downhaul system isn't that expensive. I figure it'll be about $75.

Compare that to a new set of carbon rudders - $500; new sails $1,000+
I spent $700 just on gas last summer just travelling to regattas.

Matt on the Australian website they have pics of the new system.They are listing the cost at $250 Aus. for the new down haul system.

$250 AUS = $181 USD

They're getting hosed. And it's not even class legal yet. (Won't be until ISAF signs off on it.)

I could build it out of spare parts left over from my 17's downhaul for $0.

Where did you see it? I looked at the AUS Class website and Hobie Cat AUS site & didn't see it.

http://www.hobiecat.com.au/r&d/
go to this web site

OK, so I looked it up.

The Harken part numbers (for the micro blocks) are wrong:

Harken #231 - Triple becket w/cam - $54.99 (West Marine)
Harken #228 - Triple - $26.99

The length of line they propose is way too long - 6.5 meters!? I figure at most, maybe 10 feet (3 meters) (6 x 18" = 9 feet + 1 ft extra for knots) You're not supposed to be able to adjust this from the trapeze, but even that would only add another 5 ft. or so.

Attach to the gooseneck with a shackle, or better yet, a 1 ft. piece of 2mm Dyneema, looped through several times and tied off.

Attach the lower end to the original cleat with another 1 ft. piece of 2mm Dyneema, just like the top. (Loosen the bolts on the old cleat and slide it down to the bottom of the mast. Retighten bolts. Cut the horns off and round off the ends with a file.)

I've got scraps of new line that would do well as the down haul (I just replaced the spin halyard on my Tiger (frayed in two spots) - it got recycled into tramp lacing for the 16 - and there's plenty left over.) I've also got a supply of the 2mm Dyneema for the tie offs.

Total Cost - $81.99 (OK, so I missed it by $7)

I would like to see photo of this when you complete project

Is this class legal yet?

or

Can we safely assume we can use this on open regattas?

It is NOT class legal - yet. Probably by the beginning of sailing season next year.

You really shouldn't use it in open regattas either, since the boat's rating is dependent on it being class legal.

correct and if you win, you can get protested.

So I was noticing the other day that I accelerated faster after a tack if I didn't sheet the jib in as far as the telltales suggested *right away*, but rather let it become quite full for a moment and THEN sheet in. Obviously this gives the "wing" more camber and therefore more lift at slow speeds, which helps the acceleration.

So THEN I was thinking I could probably accelerate faster if I could adjust the downhaul looser after a tack and then make it tighter as I accelerated; again to make the sail "fuller" at low speeds.

Is that sort of the theory behind adjusting the downhaul while sailing, or is it something else? I am hungry for information.

I think ajusting it during a tack would be an over kill(not even sure theacc boats do that).Ajusting the down haul is more reserved for changes in wind velocity,and point of sail.

Adjusting the Downhaul:

Basic Theory (on the 16) - the more wind, the tighter (pulls draft forward, frees up leech to help depower)

Intermediate Theory - loosen going downwind to help make sail fuller w/ more power. Also, loosen when sitting between races or on the beach to settle the boat down. Must remember to retighten before rounding leeward mark. In heavy air, fuggetabboutit (leave tight) - having weight that far forward can earn you a swim.

Advanced theory - light air, upwind (like in the photo above) - leave loose; as boat accelerates out of a tack, tighten some, but don't cleat. Friction will hold it in place. When you tack, friction is released - gooseneck slides up. Repeat on opposite tack. Helps get the boat up to speed on new tack by increasing draft / power.