Welcome aboard, BradO,
BradO wrote:
The Jib halyard line (just learning names) looks pretty worn, almost line old cloths line. I read that 1/4" or 3/16" by 20' or 32' is the correct line? Could someone clear up this difference?
Make friends with your nearest Hobie dealer by ordering one through him, and have a Hobie catalog sent with the order. In it you'll find the names, number, and cost of every part.
BradO wrote:
The aft traveler for main sheet block is sticky. It slides, but is rough. Is this important
Yes.
BradO wrote:
and what lube could I use for this and other moving parts?
Try a silicone lubricant and avoid oil based ones like WD-40 since oil attracts dirt and sand.
BradO wrote:
I read somewhere that the travelers (jib and main) are not too important for beginners, which I most definitely am. Is this true?
No. You should learn to use everything on the boat.
BradO wrote:
The rudder and tiller look original. People have said in general to replace the cam and rudder pin, but they look in quite good shape and I am inclined to start with it as is. Mistake?
No. Try it and if the rudders kick up smoothly and lock down securely then you're laughing. If not then consider replacing them.
BradO wrote:
My main block set has two separate upper blocks that attach to the boom. I gather that this is an older style, rather than the single set of triple blocks. Any issues here?
Yep, they are older, and nope, they shouldn't be a problem. If they work use them. If they are worn or cracked and you have the dough then get new ones.
BradO wrote:
The batons on my jib stick out way past (2"+) the sail. They are tied in and then taped over. Any reason not to shorten them?
No.
BradO wrote:
What about the tape?
Try sailing without the tape after shortening the battens. To keep the battens from hanging up on halyards you'll need to use a combination of shortened battens, good tacking technique, and when those two fail, stand up and separate the jib from the halyard by hand (usually in light winds).
BradO wrote:
The boat is a bit dirty and I would like to clean it up. Just wash and polish with buffing compound, then wax? What wax?
Try cleaning with Barkeepers Friend or Bon Ami, and if that doesn't do it then you'll need either to try something stronger; search this forum for something stronger. Make friends with your Hobie dealer and buy some wax through him with the halyard.
BradO wrote:
How can I check the bow tangs?
Maybe you should include new bow tangs with your order, and keep the old ones as spares. I've seen them break under sail.
BradO wrote:
There is a length of 1/2 diameter line, ~7' long running from each shroud around the aft frame back to the bow frame and tied. It looks like a line for righting the boot, but the spliced eye around the shroud does not look like a good place to put any pressure for righting. I can't see undoing the shroud in the event of going over. Any thoughts what this legacy line might be?
Probably a righting line. Your shrouds can take the pressure, but it's not necessary. My antique 16 tramp doesn't have tramp pockets so I've stored my righting line by wrapping one end around a front pylon, around the dolphin striker, then wrapped around the opposite pylon. When it's needed for righting I unwrap the lower end, throw it over the high hull and learn out. If you have tramp pockets or a bag in which to store a righting line then tie one end to the dolphin striker and stuff the rest away for when you need it (and you'll need it).
BradO wrote:
Any other sage advice before I put on my Baby Bob and try to rig her up for the first time
Check your mast for leaks by dunking it in a lake. If you see bubbles you'll need to reseal the leaks as you don't want a mast filling with water making righting impossible.
Check the hull plugs and maybe put new ones in with your order.
Spray the main sail luff and mast luff track with silicone lube to ease hoisting.
Check the shroud anchor bolts for bends (unscrew them completely), and if bent put new ones in with your order.
Have fun!