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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 11:54 am 
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I picked up a H16 recently. tie downs strapped over the hulls are used to hold the boat on to trailer. Is there a better way to do it?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:20 pm 
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I prefer tiedowns to each pylon post. Less pressure of the outboard hull lips. Cross hull straps seem to need a lot more tension to get the needed hold-down presssure.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:09 pm 
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Location: Sarasota FL / Plymouth MI
This came up in my resto thread too... any pics available of a setup like that?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:45 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
OK, here's my system. These photos are from my 14 and 17, but I use the same system on my 16 and also used it on my Tiger.
Image
Here you can see the strap (part #1793 in the Hobie Catalog) and the tiedown (green) as they are for trailering.
Image
This is the tie down - it's just a 2 foot long piece of 1/4" dacron double braid with an eye splice in each end. (Splicing is really easy to do - I did 16 of these sitting in front of the TV watching football one weekend.) The original piece of line was about 4 ft long before the splices were done.
Image
On the 14 and 16, the tiedown loops over the top of the pylon and around the sidebar (look closely in the first photo). On the 17, the eye strap keeps the tiedown from sliding towards the middle of the trampoline.
Image
The strap kit as it comes from Hobie includes plates that get bolted on to the pylon bolts, or pop-riveted to the deck flange on the 17 and 18. You're supposed to hook the ends of the straps into those. I went with a universal system for all my boats that requires no modification of the boat to work.

What you really can't see in the photos is that the rear straps angle forward and the front straps angle aft. The boat can't move backwards, forwards, up or down. In fact, the air resistance of driving down the road actually makes the boat plant itself even better on the trailer.

The only problems I've had with these straps are flutter and when they get wet, they stretch. You just have to keep an eye on them in the rain and tighten as necessary. If they start to flutter, just put a twist in them.


Last edited by MBounds on Fri Jul 06, 2012 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:08 pm 
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Thanks so much I have an 85 H16 the guy strap to hulls and has several cracks from it. But I just purchased an 82 H16 that is in awesome condition and was wondering how to strap it down without messing it up as this ones a keeper!

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00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:06 pm 
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Location: Sarasota FL / Plymouth MI
Awesome, I like it, will have to order the parts when I get around to cleaning up my trailer later this year!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:37 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
You don't need to use the parts I have here.

You can do the same thing with four pieces of line about 10' long. Use trucker's hitches to get them tight.

The concepts are:
- They don't touch the hulls
- They provice a 4-point tie down that keeps the boat from moving in any direction


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:26 am 
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Location: West Point, Utah
I use a very similar system with cam straps. The aft straps angle forward and toward the centerline and the forward straps angle aft and toward the centerline. I trailer about 30 miles a couple of times a week and do over 100 miles a couple a times a year . Never had any problems until this last week. Coming back from Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake, the wind was kicking up with gusts over 40mph and I was traveling 50mph at 90 degrees to the wind. I was lucky to be watching in my mirror as my boat lifted slightly and shifted over to the leeward enough to come off the front rollers. My back ones have guides, but my front ones are just v shaped rollers. Anyway, I stopped before any serious damage was done and used a racheting strap on the windward hull. Worked fine and I immediately took it off when I reached home. Scared the living daylights out of me though. I will definitely be watching for those side winds in the future.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:17 pm 
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I did this on Saturday morning and it worked great, on the trailer I used 4 mounting brackets that had rings from northern tools ($2 each) and then used motorcycle straps they wrap around the tramp frame perfect hooked the other end to the ring and pull snug. Drove 60 miles boat did'nt move at all. Thanks for the pics!

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00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 4:56 pm 
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Anyone have any pictures of how far forward the hobie is supposed to sit when its on the trailer?


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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 4:01 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
Keven wrote:
Anyone have any pictures of how far forward the hobie is supposed to sit when its on the trailer?


It's different for every trailer. Boat position on the trailer determines the tongue weight. You want the tongue weight to be about 10% of the load.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 4:54 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, IN
Same idea as the Matts, I am running all 4 corners inward. I even put retractable straps on the rear.

Front straps are fixed length so I hook them on, shove the boat forward on the trailer to take up the slack, then tighten up the rear to push the boat further forward. Quick, simple, and I know the boat is always in the same spot every time.

Image
Image
Image

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