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PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2004 1:22 pm 
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I am working on my new trampoline and it is time to come up with some good idea how to attach the hiking straps. The old trampoline is a 20-year-old orig. Hobie tramp made out of vinyl. This tramp functioned as a template. The new one is made from Permatron mesh – it is in one piece with loops of webbing replacing the original grommets for the rear lacing.
On the old vinyl tramp the Hiking straps were restitched at least twice over its lifespan.
Besides the need for restiching I always had two issues with the stock tramp …
*It was always difficult to get my feet in the loops especially when the feet were in booties. Getting my feet in typically required me to lift up the loops slightly and stick the feet in.
*Hiking out always put quiet a load on the straps and especially in the area where the strap was stitched to the trampoline.

Is there any way to attach the hiking straps to the tramp to avoid these issues? I would be thankful for any kind of idea, drawing, picture – aftermarket tramp, different type of cat, boat, whatever works.

Thanks,

Patrick


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:51 pm 
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Location: Jamestown, RI
I've heard of people replacing the original hiking straps by putting in grommets where they attached. You could then run webbing, or large diameter line through the grommets. I remember seeing pictures of this somewhere on here.

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 Post subject: Yo Yoh
PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 4:54 pm 
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Location: Finger Lakes, NY
:wink: I had to say that of course :wink:

As marcus said- grommets and line work and you can set it up with adjustable degrees of slack. Put a grommet near the front cross bar and one a few inches in front of back lacing, then put two pairs of two grommets about 4 inches apart with these pairs evenly spaced on the tramp from front to back- then just lace a 3/8's line through them. The only problem is that line is tough on bare ankles.

If you use webbing, there is no easy answer to how much slack is needed to make getting your feet under it easier (I don't think) but there is a secret to stitching it down that I learned from my local cobbler/tent/saddle repair guy: at each sewn area sew an X with the long sides attached, corner to corner with stitching. do not "box" your stitch in with thread across the width of the webbing. Stitching across the width of the webbing actually creates a weak area that rips more easily. Using the open-ended x pattern spreads the stress more evenly. True that. 8)

Good luck- get a good sailor's palm and heavy needle set and go for it!

Heat wave today here 30 deg and rainy. I can't boat and I can't ski- look for me to spend more time here I guess. :roll: Peace out

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The fact that this windy world is largely covered in water obviously means that man was meant to sail.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2004 1:06 pm 
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Marcus... I have seen pics of this setup. Since I went through some effort to eliminate the 26 grommets in the rear of the tramp with 46 loops of webbing matereial I do not want to punch holes for grommets in the middel of the tramp. I am concerend that those might be areas where the grommets rip out.

widerisbetter... O.K. lets see if I understand this right... sorry , but I do not know how to attach a pic to my posting


_______________________________________
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X . Right? Direction of webbing =>
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| X | . Wrong? Direction of webbing =>
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Hmmm, I have read somewhere that the new Hobie tramps have two inch wide webbing sewen to the tramp, but the webbing is turned / twisted 180 * for each foot loop in order to have easiere access with the feet.... Any experience with this setup???

Thanks,

Patrick


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