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 Post subject: Mast Rake
PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Saskatoon, Sk. Canada
Well I finally got around to getting my boat in the water and do some sailing. I have always put both side stays in the middle hole. After reading several posts about raking the mast as far back as possible to help the 16 point better I decided I would but the side stays in the bottom hole Even there I can not the main sheet blocks any closer than about 7 or 8” apart. Do I need to take the side stays off and shorten them? I also had to rake my rudders as far forward as I could to get the windward helm off the boat. Anyway here I am in all my glory! 8)

http://www.crystallakesask.com/pics/IMG_0798.jpg


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 Post subject: Rake...
PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 3:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 9310
Location: Oceanside, California
Rake...

The shrouds were shortened in about 1982 and then again in 1995. The length is now 18' 11"

Rake the mast back till you can "two block" (touch or nearly touch the boom blocks to the rathcet blocks) the mainsheet system when you sheet as hard as you would while sailing.

Using the rudder FAQ to get the rudder rake set for best performance:

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=467

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2004 8:28 am
Posts: 192
in case you do not plan on upgrading to the shorter version of shrouds... You could take out the twisted stainless steel part that connects the shrouds to the hulls - This should safe you another inch.
In your pics it look like you are using the old style mainsheet - IIRC those will require some more space than the Harken style triple blocks... in other words you will sheet block to block earlier.
Rudders... yoh! this is exactely my experience. If you decide to rake the mast further you will not be able to compensate with the rudders -at least not without making modifications (drilling new pivot holes)
You might want to stop where you are at this point.

Patrick


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2005 9:15 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Do NOT remove the twist toggle...

This piece is the "universal joint" of the shroud attachment to the anchor pin. It helps to relieve the side loading forces against the anchor pin.

You could bend and fail the anchor pin if the twist toggle is not in place as designed.

And... if racing... it is required to be there in the rules.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2005 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Saskatoon, Sk. Canada
OMG Matt I would never do anything that would upset you :oops: LOL. I also didn't like the suggestion about taking off the twist tang, Is is possible to shorten the existing shrouds or are you better off just replacing then with the new shorter ones?


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 Post subject: Shorten or replace?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2005 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Shorten or replace?

If your wires are old enough to be too long...

You should probably replace them.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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