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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 4:34 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sat Apr 09, 2005 4:39 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Auckland
Have read the previous posts and the article by Matt Miller about cams/rake etc but it isnt helping!

The delrin screws are as tight as they can go (presume there is some corrosion or something built up stopping me-but they are pretty tight anyways!- have pulled out the old ones and replaced all but the spring) and then today as another measure i have been putting bungy around the lower and upper casting ...basically to hold the cam down in place...cam is locked but seems to kick up when we are at speed....also when we fly a hull i can only assume the pressue on only the tip of the rudder causes it to pop up too......having bungy around the casting can create issues when we arrive at the beach too....it also makes it hard to lock the rudders down at first!....i hope someone can understand what i am talking about.....

See i live in New Zealand ...today we had 25-35 knots of wind....and a brand new sail (imported direct from Hobie USA) so looking forward to 2mmorow and the 15-20 knots we are expecting...just wish i could suss the rudder issues!!!!!

Many many thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 5:29 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 779
Location: St. Louis, MO
As long as you repalced the cams and the delrin screws and the old springs still work the only other thing I can think of is the cam plate in the upper casting. Is that far enough back?

To test this, get you boat out of the water and off the ground enough to freely raise and lower the rudders. Lower the rudder and lock in place. Then loosed the screw on the top of the upper casting and slide the cam plate all the way back into the cam. The tighten the screw.

If this doesn't work maybe the cams are in the locked down position even when the rudder is up. If they are rotate them back up and follow the steps for the cam plate adjustment.

I hop you get out on the water today.

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Nick

Current Boat
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Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 6:05 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sat Apr 09, 2005 4:39 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Auckland
Tried that yes......does anyone else have to use bungy?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 5:15 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 779
Location: St. Louis, MO
Replace the springs then. Over time springs can wear out and not produce the original amount of force. This would in turn reduce your kickup force.

This may be a stupid question, but when you go to lock down the upper casting are you getting it fully seated? When the rudder is locked down, the upper and lower casting should fit togeather pretty tight.

Also, are the rudders drilled out corretly? If you are using rudders that come off of anothe hobie that wasn't a 16 the holes may be in the wrong location. Also, the person who mounted these rudders originally may not have drilled the holes in the correct position. In the support area you can download the template for the H16. Make sure when you print it out the scale is 100%.

Finally, try swapping the rudder blades. It sounds rediculous, but you never know.

Without looking at your rudders, there is not much more I can think of. Hopefully somone else in this forum can help.

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Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO


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 Post subject: Another thought...
PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 9:05 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 9226
Location: Oceanside, California
This may be related to the upper casting / cam plate position (assuming the boat is mid 80's or newer... if older, it will be a rudder drilling issue). If the cam plate is too far forward, it prevents the cam from fully locking, you get what appears to be a locking cam, but it trips too easily.

Hold the tiller arm up, lock the cam down with your thumb. Look at the cam from the front of the casting. There is a small rectangular opening in the front side (under where the tiller arm would normally be). Mark the casting with a scribe to align with someting on the cam. There is a sharp edge on the cam to use as a guide for a properly rotated and locked cam.

Open the cam with a blade screw drive. Lock the rudder down in the normal fashion, with the tiller arm.

Look again at the cam through the small opening of the front of the casting, under the tiller arm.

Likely the cam is not fully rotated and locked.

If this is the case and you have adjust the cam plate aft. Loosen the screw / bolt holding the plate. Move the plate all the way aft. See that the cam rotates and locks fully. Hold the rudder forward in the lower casting. With the tiller arm in the normal locked position, move the plate forward slowly until it contacts the inside of the cam hook. Lift and lower the tiller arm slightly to be sure the plate can seat fully in the cam (may be that the tiller arm will be slightly lifted off of the lower casting). Tighten the cam plate. Check the cam lock and rudder slop. If the plate is too far aft, the rudder can move aft under load. It will be a balance between holding the rudder forward and allowing the cam to lock fully.

I have seen systems where the plate is not properly aligned with the cam hook. The cam rotates over and hit the top of the plate and cannot lock. I have also seen systems where the castings have to be filed down a little to allow the upper casting to propery nest with the lower and get low enough to engage the cam hook.

Anyway... lots to look at.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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