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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 6:09 pm 
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I'm looking into buying a used Hobie 16 (possibly another model). I've been sailing and I know how but I'm a beginner when it comes to Hobie Cats (sailed them a few times and loved it). Looking to purchase a used one in the South Jersey Shore area and I would love any advice this knowledgeable group could give me to make sure I get a good boat at a good price. Are there years to avoid or to seek out? How should I test the boats I see? Are there warning signs I should look out for?

I'm sure there are a ton of other questions I should ask. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
Bloome


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:34 pm 
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There are definitely a few major things to look out for.

1) any type of softness in the deck or sides of the hulls. if there is any softness the repair is a b**ch and would not be worth the time and money spent (unless the boat is super cheap). if you do buy a boat in this condition there are a ton of postings about this problem.

2) if there is any major corrosion on the mast and especially at the base/rotator/front transome area you are gonna have one heck of a time rebuilding it.

3) the transoms themselves. make sure there are no major defects.

4) as for the hobie 16 make sure the struts that enter the hulls which hold the trampoline aloft are not loose and that there are no cracks where they enter the hulls.

5) the shrouds. make sure that the connections at the base of the shrouds are not corroded, overly rusted, or broken.

6) the sails. make sure there are no major tears and that there is no major rust on any metal parts that may exist on them. always make sure to ask the seller to unroll the sails and make sure to give them a thorough look over. if there are a profuse number of patches it may be that the sails are really old and fragile. new sails are pretty expensive.

other than these MAJOR issues you will want to check the rigging and all of the other components and make a judgement call. everything on these boats can be replaced, repaired, or fabricated. as far as pricing goes (and i am only talking about my area here in Hawaii) paying anything more than $2000 for a decent but older boat is too much. just make sure to look everything over and make a judgement call based upon your budget and your ability to fix or replace any problem components.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 3:50 pm 
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look out for:
soft spots
rips or tears in the sail
missing parts
look to make sure the mast is straight
shrouds in good condition
trampoline- check for tears rips or weak spots
check all the lines


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 10:39 pm 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Well, you should look out for any soft spot or delamination in the Hull or deck. I bought my '72 Hobie 16 not knowing it has a HUGE softspot on the startboard hull from the Bow to the front frame post! Its gonna be a b*tch to fix so thats definetly a big one to watch out for.

I would also check all the rigging, I recently read a post where someone told a story of when their mast fell over while on the water!! doesn't sound like fun!

One last thing is make sure your not getting ripped off!! I have seen many ads for for hobie 16s is poor condition for over 3Gs!!

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'72 Hobie 16
with
#56 Gonzo Nationals

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 10:34 pm 
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Use the Hobie boat/parts catalog (and PDFs available online) to see exactly EVERY part you need for your boat. Even small parts can be very expensive. A very careful inventory of what comes with the boat is key to make sure you get your money's worth. Some interesting items - newer mainsheet system - $300-400. New tramp - $300-400. New gooseneck - $75. Shackles are $8. You can spend a lot of money on standing rigging alone, not to mention new main and jibsheets, downhaul, etc. Are the sheaves wrecked in any of the blocks (cheek block on mast is good example)? These blocks are riveted on and need serious work to be replaced. A missing gooseneck can mean removing rivets from the cap on your boom and replacement. Missing cleats on your mast mean work too (should be three on the old school 16 with normal downhaul, two riveted on and one in the track). Rudder blades OK? These are super pricey if not. A simple tiller extension is over $50 for the most basic one (if you want to replace it like I did, someone stuck a PVC pipe on my tiller as the extension). Come with trapeze rig? All bits included and in good shape? How many butt buckets come with the boat (you will probably want two of them and they are pricey too - old school if you can find them are $30-50, new type $100+). I found the hard way that my "free" Hobie 16 cost me about $700+ to bring back to life. New tramp, lots of missing small parts, missing gooseneck, busted parts on the mast, sails were not in great shape (bought a new set).

Amen on the standing rigging. It is not very expensive to replace the forestay, bridles, pigtail, and shrouds. You don't want a dismasting, and a visual inspection won't guarantee against a major failure of a shroud when under sail. Get the rubber coated stuff, and note the age of your cat. 70s and 80s cats have different standard length standing rigging. There was less mast rake as "standard" then. You may like more rake (this helps speed if you are serious about that).

Sails - Sun bleaching across the sail (usually near the bottom) means they probably wrapped the sail around the boom and left it in the sun. Bad news. The bleached spot will be weak and likely to tear. Mildew on a sail is a sign that the sails were put away wet. Oh, sails should be "crunchy" and crisp, not soft. If soft, they are badly worn and likely "blown out." Check to be sure the battens (the reinforcing sticks in the sails) are all there with the caps. If not this is a costly fix just for battens.

Look at the rudder cams (see the parts list for this). Are they beat to hell or in good shape? If beat up this may indicate the cam/plungers need adjustment, and you may need to replace badly worn cams. If the boat is really old like my 78, you may need to completely remove the old plunger/nylon screw and spring and replace the parts and tune the tension. Not expensive but a hassle. If cams look good you either have a much newer boat, or one where the rudder locking works fine so no one has been banging on the cams to get them to lock/unlock properly.

Also look for a righting system...at least a line tied to a pylon and coiled somewhere, but my favorite is the righting line sold by salt_city_sailing on Ebay. The guy makes them himself with climbing rated webbing and very strong shock cord. Super easy to install, and dead simple if you dump your boat. I have one on both of my 16s. Just grab the thing and pull when you dump over, no need to have pulleys, tie a righting line, etc. Just snaps back around the pylons when you don't need it.



Hope this helps.

RP


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 12:38 am 
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So Jbhawaii, if there are cracks were the transom enters the hulls does that mean the boat is trash or is there still a chance for repair? Is it the same as the delam fix? I just picked up a 78 16' for $300 and the sails where crisp like new for use on my 81. But my 81 hulls are kinda trashed because of being dragged off and on a dock for years (not by me) so I was hoping that these 78 hulls that are in otherwise good shape would be the solution to my problem. What do you think?

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Corey
82 H16 project complete


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:59 am 
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It depends on the extent of the cracking. Is it just the gel coat that has cracked from sun damage/pressure or are they more extensive? Why don't you upload a picture or two, that would be a good start.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:54 pm 
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This is the pic I got tonight. I can't really tell if it is structural or not. If I have to fix delam I will fix it so I don't need to use these hulls. Really either way I am going to have to fix some delamination.

Thanks for the help,
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 7131_n.jpg

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Corey
82 H16 project complete


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