Jib sheet and traveler rigging

Matt,

I have an 82 H16. My jib traveler setup is similar to your drawing on your Jul 23, 2010 4:02 pm response for this subject .

I usually sail solo and it is not easy to uncleat the lance cleats for the jib travelers from the back of the boat without releasing the tension on the jib sheet first. Would I be better off replacing the lance cleats with either cam cleats or swivel cam cleats? Also should the new cam or swivel cam cleats be near the corners where the old lance cleats were or closer to the mast? Not sure if there is enough room (between the track and trampoline) to put a cam or swivel cam where the old lance cleats were. I already have swivel cam cleats with bullseye fairleads about 11 inches from the mast for my jib sheets. Could the new cam or swivel cam be located between the end of the track and the swivel cam for the jib sheet?

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

Hey Matt. There is still a bungee pulling the traveler car inboard yes? I assume so and that I just do not see it.

Where do you attach it to the new jib traveler? The bungee was tied below the old style and it is clearly shown in your post of 7/22, 12:35, but not shown on the newer system.

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ScotsSailor
1986 Hobie 16

Tim, did you see the earlier post, wherein Jerome (rattle 'n hum) mentioned that he uses the old swivel cam cleat that now controls the jib sheet, to control the jib traveler. He was able to do this after he installed the lo-profile jib blocks (Hobie part 1075), which have built cam cleats for the jib sheet, thus, bypassing the old swivel cam cleat?

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ScotsSailor
1986 Hobie 16

It sounds like Jerome (rattle 'n hum)'s and ScotsSailor's idea makes a lot of sense. It appears to be also partly described on page 22 of the 2010 - 2011 catalog.

Since I haven't actually seen one of these 1075 lo-profile jib block systems, I have a few questions.

1) If I leave my existing cheek block (mounted on the corner) and swivel camcleat (located about 11" from the mast), will the traveler line that runs between the check block and the swivel clam cleat interfere with the new 1075 lo-profile jib block? It appears as if it would possible rub slightly against it.

2) Is there a hole on the side of the new 1075 lo-profile jib block to connect the bungee line too? I currently have a KISME OK traveler jib car that has separate side holes for the bungee and traveler line.

3) Does the end of the jib sheet connect to the metal eyestrap on top of the 1075's roller fairlead?

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

Tim. I had already purchased and installed the low profile blocks and only then tried to figure out how to set up the various lines.

There is no interference in this setup. This pic shows the line coming from the swivel camcleat to the cleat on the corner castings. It runs just under the lo-profile jib block, but does not touch it.


There is no hole for the bungee. I tied the bungee to the plunger on the car.

I tied the line to the eye strap. I was concerned it would impede the swivel action of the lo-profile jib block, but it did not. The following pics show the lo-profile jib block facing inboard and then facing outboard, both with loads from the traveler line, but the swivel orientation is not effected.





Finally, here is a close up. I am still deciding on the knots to use (that is why there is a bowline on the starboard traveler line and a figure eight on the port line). None of the lines interfere with the jib sheet at all. I am just guessing at most of this, as I am a newbie, but this setup looks like it will work.



I invite the more experienced folks to chime in. In particular Jerome, who has been using the lo-profile block (1075) in conjunction with the old swivel camcleat.

Cheers!

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ScotsSailor
1986 Hobie 16

ScotsSailor,

Thanks for the pictures, they were very helpful. I was looking in another catalog and they showed the same system. They had it set up very similiar to yours except that the car posts were facing toward the corners. Under their setup, the traveler line was tied onto the post and the bungee was connected to the eyestrap.

The idea of getting away from the lance cleats and using the existing swivel camcleats to contol the jib cars definitely seems like the better way to go. Also feeding the jib sheet thru just one combination lo-profile jib block cammatic instead of a separate traveler car block and a stationary swivel cam should make it easier to release the jib sheet (to avoid a pitchpole) and allow the jib to pop over during a tack. Under the old lance cleat system, I quite often had to manually reach up and slacken the jib sheet (after backwinding a tack) inorder to allow the jib to pop over.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

Guys, I've had a newer boat with a totally different system since 2005, and my memory isn't great, but...

ScotSailor: I think you'll find it better to put the cars on with the thumbscrew outboard and to use a smaller diameter traveller line (3/16"). The traveller line should be attached to the thumbscrew....I do believe that I used a figure eight knot. I can't remember where the shock cord was attached......eyestrap?

Tim H16: The low-profile cars are definitely a nice upgrade for all the reasons you describe, and I I hate lance cleats, too! When you do this uprade, you don't need (or I'm betting want) another set of swivel cam cleats for the traveller. And I agree that there doesn't appear to be room for a set of the small cam cleats where your lance cleats currently are. I'm sure mine were inboard of the swivel cam cleats.

Hope this helps.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

The control line is way to big too. Hard to tie a clean knot. Try swapping out for 3/16". Pin outboard on the car. Connect both the control line and the bungee at the pin.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Sorry for the ignorance, but what are the bungees for that are pulling from the outboard shivs? I have the spring loaded pulleys in those tracks on my boat which lock in with the pin, so what's the purpose? Am I supposed to be moving those alot during sailing, or is it just because I shouldn't trust the locking pin?

You don't move them a lot when sailing. They have basically two positions - all the way in for upwind and all the way out for downwind. In heavier air, they should be moved out as the wind gets over 15 kts so the jib doesn't backwind the main and counter-rotate the mast.

The control system is purely for convenience. The pin on the car is disabled by tying it up or removing it; the control line pulls the car out; the bungee returns it to center when the control line is released.

In addition to upwind and downwind sailing, I prefer beam reaches were I am at 90 degrees to the true wind (45 degrees to the apparent wind). Beam reaches provide the most speed and depending on the wind direction each day, I normally set my courses so I can maximize my speed coming and going. It is a lot of fun blowing past mono hulls and some power boats, particularly when your rudders are humming.

While on a beam reach, I normally set my main and jib travelers all the way out, sheet in the main sheet tight (preferably block to block) and adjust the jib sheet tension based on whether I have a hard time keeping the windward hull from flying too high (less jib tension) or if I want to go faster (more jib tension). Also, check your jib and main sails for luffing and their telltales.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

Awesome, thank you.

Digging up an old thread to see how those small Ronstan cam cleats are mounted on the crossbar... It seems the crossbar profile is slightly curved, even on the more relatively flat portion. Is any adjustment needed to fit the crossbar profile, like sanding the base? Or do they just screw straight into the crossbar.

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Bradley M. Davis - Hobie High Life YouTube Videos
2012 H16 (with 2018 Cayman Main) #115139

Brad,

I prefer a Swivel Cam Cleat instead of the Fixed Cam Cleat for the jib traveler. It makes it easier to cleat/uncleat from any location on the boat.

You can use the "Accessory Mounting Plate" Hobie part# 1161 or 1162 under your Swivel Cam Cleat. The mounting plate matches the curve of the crossbar.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

They are just screwed to the crossbar - but not so tightly as to warp the cleat.

The swivel cleats that Tim has are just plain overkill. The jib travelers are adjusted infrequently - all the way in for sailing upwind and all the way out for sailing downwind. I guess it depends on what kind of sailing you're doing. For racing, the crew is right there at the cleat and doesn't need to move much to adjust it. If you're solo, I can see where a set up like Tim's would be handy.